MyRovers.com

Solid axle rovers are easy, get it to 0* toe in at the brake rotor, then just turn the tie-rod 1 turn to toe it in, tighten it all back up and you’re done.

All Rovers, D90 Misc, DII MISC, RRC

On the ATF its 16 pints - 2 gallons Dextron/Mercon IV - you can put it in the PS as well.

On the TC gear oil, get 3Qts - at least, as it goes in the Diffs as well. Mobil 1 sythetic 75W-90, valvoline 85W-140 synthetic blend.

On coolant, don’t bother with the 50/50 mix, get the full strength stuff, 2 gallons. Prestone is fine.

Brake fluid - I have Valvoline Full Synthetic. Exceeds DOT 4.

D90 Misc, Discovery 1, RRC

Wheel Arch Trimming Info

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/trimarches/index.htmlRR

RRC

The Central Locking device on Classics are crap, and expensive.

You are able to duplicate its operation with 2 generic Bosch Style relays. I’m going to show you how.

This repair was done on my 90, other classics similar.

The lock module is on the drivers side (Left) held on by 2 bolts.

Take it off, and throw it away.

Connect relay terminals 87/86 and 85(See Diagram) to the Brown/Pink wire. This should show constant 12 volts regardless of key position.

Connect 87A terminals to the Black wire. This should show ground at all times.

Connect the 30 Terminals to the Orange and Pink wires. These wires activate the solenoids in either lock or unlock depending on polarity.

There are 2 sets of Yellow/Orange and Red/Pink wires. Either set is ok to use for this next step, but use a set….; Meaning, right next to each other.

This is the input for the module from the switch built into the solenoids on the 2 front doors.

One wire will show ground when locking, the other while unlocking. Connect one to the unused 86 terminal, the other to the unused 85 terminal.

Test system, reversing the last step as needed.

Again, this is based on my experience. Use it as a guide. It worked well for me.

RRC

This may or may not work for you but it did worky for me Of course, mine was also full of sun flower seads, chips, dirt and loose change

Tool needed;

Fine needle nose pliers
Vaseline
Electronic cleaner

1) Remove two screws securing seat switch from switch housing, removing two connections at the bottom of the switch cluster.

2) CAREFULLY remove top of switch cluster being VERY careful not to lose any of the ball bearings or springs. (Removing in a large zip loc back works well)

3) Remove all ball bearings, switches, leads and springs from the housing.

(NOTE: Take special care to familliarize yourself with the position of each switch, bearing, rocker point and spring.)

4) Spray housing/ leads with Electronic Cleaner. Make sure all points are free from oil and dirt. Using an old tooth brush, clean points on switch cluster.

5) Refit: Using a fine pare of needle nose pliers, refit rocking points and switches.

Drop one ball bearing in the bottom of each slot on the respective switch, followed by one spring.

(NOTE: Another ball bearing sits just on top of each spring.

6) Using vaseline/ needle nose pliers, carefully drop the ball bearing on the spring. The vaseline will ensure the bearing stays.

7) Repeat on the remaining 3 switches.
With great ease, secure the top of the switch housing, noting the switch levers to their respective slot while ensuring the ball bearings don’t fall from position.

9) Install switch cluster to housing.

RRC

Part #s are 25527077 for the ACDelco and 779-10003 for the GP Sorenson. $27 at Advance Auto. works for the 3.9 or 4.2 of course.

89 Chevy Astro van stepper motor

Dweb RRC Stepper motor substitutions thread

RRC

New Keyless Entry Remote (Handset) Programming

Programming for 94, 95 models (one-button models).

1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked, hood switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3. to 9. within 8 seconds.
3. Switch ignition ON.
4. Switch ignition OFF.
5. Lock doors.
6. Unlock doors.
7. Release hood switch.
8. Switch ignition ON.
9. Switch ignition OFF. If alarm is correctly accessed, horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to program two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU. This must be carried out within two minutes.
10. Press and hold down button on first handset until dash LED flashes.
11. Repeat instruction 10. for second handset.
12. The LED will extinguish if both handsets have been programmed correctly.

RRC

http://www.discoweb.org/window/index.htm

RRC

www.Eshocks.com

Range Rover (Except air suspension)
Years: 71-9/94
Setting: Bilstein Heavy Duty

Front Shocks Information
Part Number: B46-0243-M0 (F4-B46-0243-M0)
Type: Mono-Tube Gas
List Price: $121.00 (each)
Our Price: $74.95 Quantity:

Rear Shocks Information
Part Number: B46-0253-M0 (F4-B46-0253-M0)
Type: Mono-Tube Gas
List Price: $121.00 (each)
Our Price: $74.95 Quantity:

Steering Damper Information
Part Number: B36-0245-M0 (F4-B36-0245-M0)
Type: Mono-Tube Gas
List Price: $121.00 (each)
Our Price: $64.95 Quantity:

B36-0245-M0

B46-0243-M0

B46-0253-M0

Range Rover (Air suspension)
Years: 92-9/94
Setting: Bilstein Heavy Duty

Front Shocks Information
Part Number: B46-2153-H0 (F4-B46-2153-H0)
Type: Mono-Tube Gas
List Price: $121.00 (each)
Our Price: $74.95 Quantity:

Rear Shocks Information
Part Number: B46-2152-H0 (F4-B46-2152-H0)
Type: Mono-Tube Gas
List Price: $121.00 (each)
Our Price: $74.95 Quantity:

RRC

I run the 265/75/16s on my RRC no problems. What is probably rubbing in the back is the lip on the inside of the fender well. Roll that in and you won’t have any problems, also you might want to consider some heavy duty extended trailing arms. And if you don’t want to rub in the front, stop turning the wheel so far.

OME HD front
OME extra HD rear

RRC

http://www.alaska4×4network.com/showthread.php?t=22767&highlight=lt230

http://www.pirate4×4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545076

http://www.pirate4×4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=543410

http://www.pirate4×4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540878

RRC

http://members.shaw.ca/red90/shockinfo.html

Ome:

Front 115
Rear 44

RRC

Here’s what I have:

3″RTE HD springs
OME N73 Shocks Front
OME N44 Shocks Rear
Tom Woods Front driveshaft
93 LWB rear driveshaft (eliminates Rotoflex)
RTE pinion corrected Front arms
RTE Rear Links
Stainless extended brake lines
No swaybars

J’s

As for the 4.2 I am not sure. I think you will be fine with slightly larger tires. My 4.0 struggled with larger tires. Now I have 4.75 R and P and its still not great with 285.

I have the OME 3 inch lift. I do not think it truly delivered 3 inches, but I also have a body lift (2 inches). I when with the OME lift because that is what Bill Burke is running on his RRC. I do not recall the exact spring numbers, but I think EE has them listed on their site. I also had to put a 1 inch spacer on the rear to balance the lift. I also like how the bilsteins shocks ride. I thought the OME shocks were a bit stiff on my disco when I had it.

I had 235/85s on mine (pre body lift) I really liked that tire size with that lift, but they were “e” rated and really stiff. My 285 are “d” rated and are much softer and comfy on the road. I believe the the 265s are D rated as well. Perhaps a 265/75 will be a better fit for you. I think they are D rated as well.

When you lift the RR you will quickly find out how good all your bushings are. I replaced ALL my bushings, tie-rod ends and ball joint. I also noticed a slight vibration in my front prop shaft. I now have a GB double cardigan (sp?) shaft on mine. I also went with a OME steering dampener. AND I have caster corrected radius arms. Now with the lift it rides solid and tracks great. I think if you go more than 2 inches, you should consider these other things. I know many do not, but its a matter of what you are willing to put up with while driving. All said and done, it really comes down to how you are going to use the Rangie. If you do not need to lift it more than 2 inches, I would consider just a 2 inch lift.

M’s

t’s going to be closest to your D1 in terms of road manners and suspension set-up. For a 2″ lift you really only need springs, to make it work well you’ll want a few more things like the rear links and brake lines and shocks. For a 3″ you can get by just fine with the springs, shocks, rear links, and brake lines. The radius arms, castor corrected swivel balls and A-arm extension are nice, but I seem to be just fine without them on the Disco. Unless it’s an unlimited funds type of project I’d spend that money elsewhere, and if you do have unlimited or somewhat unlimited funds I wouldn’t buy the rte radius arms, rear inks or A-arm extension, I’d get Rovertracks rear links or hold out for Inland Rovers new line of suspension parts. They’re still top secret and Gordon took my camera away before he let me look under his truck, but they are pretty freaking amazing, should put rte to shame.

You can stuff a pretty good sized tire without too much hassle on an RRC. With a slightly rimmed rear wheel arch and the longer bumpstops you’ll need to run a 10″ travel shock I think a narrow 35″ is fully stuffable, 33×12 or a 285/75/16 should be no problem.

The 4.2’s ability to cope with bigger tires is a personal preference type thing, with 34s and 4.11 gears you should be able to cruise at 70-80 no sweat, my truck has pretty worn out 33s and 4.11s and the acceleration is fine, the top end is a little lower than I’d like due to the gearing, but I had to compromise somewhere.

S’s

3″ you will need longer travel shocks - the longer OME ones will suffice but you will also need to retain your springs. Call Keith at rovertracks and have him make you a custom pair of trailing arms for the 3″ lift. RTE are fine but I think keith will get them to you faster. RTE is in the process of moving their shop so I know they are behind in production.

You will also need RTE’s front radius arms for castor correction - to deal with oversteer, wandering, etc. I do not have the front arms yet - no big deal since I know how to drive it but if your wife is going to drive it, get them asap for safety purposes. Keith won’t make them and refers people to Steve (RTE).

I have had no issues with my drive shafts.

I have done other things not related to the 3″ lift like all of keith’s HD steering stuff, his axle shafts, cv’s, etc. In fact, after a while, he no longer charged me shipping since I bought everything he produced!

As for tires, I run 285/75 only b/c I got a good deal on them. But I regret not going with 235/85’s. I need wheel spacers but only if I’m not careful when turning. They do rub on the fenders and I do need to cut my sliders down. I am a little worried about rubbing for blue lakes but i will take it slow. besides, if i damage the 285’s, it just gives me a reason to get the 235’s….

A’s

Thanks man!! I will tell you what I know!

So the 2″ vs. the 3″, I had the 2″ OME and ran 235 85 16 tires. I was able to do many trails without issue. On highway I could cruise nicely at 70 - 80 mph.

When I had the 2″ lift all I did was the springs/shocks, I did not need to do anything else as far as that is concerned.

The 3″ lift I have is great, but it has required a lot more to make it ride nice on the freeway. I have the RTE springs and the bilstein shocks (7100 remote res. 14″ rear, 10″ front.. It’s a lot of flex and not always needed) Rockware cones etc..

For me to feel good on the freeway with the 3″ I had to:

1. Rte front radius arms(to correct steering and related.. having the off camber without was not fun)

2. Front driveshaft. I went with Tom Woods double card. joint. That alot took care of all the vibs I had

3. Extended brake lines. Not so much for the freeway but with the lift/flex the factory lines just don’t cut it.

So as far tires go I had the 235 85 with my 2″ lift and I am now running 295 75 16 (basically 34’s). My truck is actually really stable still, I do notice in emercency braking situations on well worn roads it pulls a little to the driverside. With my old set up I never had that.

In my RRC I have the 3.9L and over 200K on the motor so I am underpowered anyway…hahahaha

But with the 235 85 it wasn’t bad at all, the 34’s I have now it does make a huge difference esp. when I pull my camper in the high country I lost a lot of power. I also had to do trimming on all wheel wells with my 34’s.

Now all that being said if I had it to do again I would go 3″ with 255 85 16 tires. You won’t loose the power and you will still have almost the same clearance. The 255 aren’t as wide and you have to trim as much.

Item’s I wish I had to keep the ride a little better:

A-arm extension
rear trailing arms

RRC

Lt230
Linkage from D1
passenger side frame mount
D1 Front Driveshaft

MHO you should look for a Q box. Mid 97 D-90, somewhere in 1998 disco I. Also, a DII front driveshaft (rebuild with greasable U-joints) and T-case flange is nice to add at the same time.

If you know for sure that your LT230 box has the updated input gear then you def need the output shaft with the longer splines. Your RR most likely has the older style.
Trans output Shaft

The only other issue you might have is if the LT230 is a late model one. The input gears are are different and you might have to replace your tranny output shaft with an upgraded one to mate properly. The shaft is around $100.

‘95 uses VSS for speedo.

Unfortunately the neutral warning switch is closed in the neutral position on the lt230 and open on the Borg Warner so when the 230 is in gear the warning noise is always on. For now I just cut the plug off of the BW switch connected the wires together and plugged it in.

Replace the trans output seal and the LT input seal.

Don’t do what I did and lower the gearbox too far…. I ended up crushing the nipples on my heater core. (engine cants back towards bulkhead) That repair was worse than the tcase swap.

Replace the TC input for sure, and save yourself the hassle and do the tranny output and the DS outputs. I just finished my swap and immediately got a leak out the rear DS seal - I had only replaced the TC input seal. New DS seals going in this week, too late to do the tranny output in my case

Get a D1 TC 96 and up - it’s the simplest fit for the sensors, plugs etc.

I just cut off the temp sensor for the BW and tossed it, I should have kept it and tucked it out of the way. I think that is why I get the light whenever the truck is on, and I am pondering the long term solution. I will either grab another sensor out of a donor BW or find a resistor or something similar to duplicate the sensor so it will pass inspection,

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A disco brake drum assembly is the easiest.

If it has the cross drilled imput gear you need a ZF spud shaft with the longer splines (search, there are pics&info on the board)

Also get the the entire Tcase frame mount. It mounts to the right side of the case.

CV drive shaft: Disco 2

————

You should be fine using all of the sensors on the transplant case. When I put the LT-230 in to my 95 RRC I just plugged everything in and off I went. Except for the neutral warning buzzer but that problem is covered in the above posts.

RRC