MyRovers.com

Solid axle rovers are easy, get it to 0* toe in at the brake rotor, then just turn the tie-rod 1 turn to toe it in, tighten it all back up and you’re done.

All Rovers, D90 Misc, DII MISC, RRC

On the ATF its 16 pints - 2 gallons Dextron/Mercon IV - you can put it in the PS as well.

On the TC gear oil, get 3Qts - at least, as it goes in the Diffs as well. Mobil 1 sythetic 75W-90, valvoline 85W-140 synthetic blend.

On coolant, don’t bother with the 50/50 mix, get the full strength stuff, 2 gallons. Prestone is fine.

Brake fluid - I have Valvoline Full Synthetic. Exceeds DOT 4.

D90 Misc, Discovery 1, RRC

Fitting Southdown Raised Air Intake

Before Installation Remove Wing Grill and Internal Components of Original Air
Intake.

1. Position wing moulding 120mm in front of bulkhead on either wing as required
‘A’. Mark hole on wing top and drill a circle of holes to create clearance for
stainless sown pipe. Clean hole with half round file.

2. Position stainless L bracket approx 140mm down from roof gutter with holes
facing inwards. Mark and drill holes ‘B’ for tapping 6mm. Insert two 6mm bolts
and washers supplied, and secure L bracket.

3. Insert down pipe through wing and attach stainless clamp to sandwich L bracket.
Raise down pipe up or down ‘D’ to align parallel to windscreen frame and grip
stainless clamp onto the L bracket with G clamp or similar. Drill two 6mm holes
‘C’ mark position of down pipe to stainless clamp with marker pen for final
assembly.

4. Adjust length of down pipe ‘E’ in order to attach flexible pipe supplied with
jubilee clip. Cut off excess with a hacksaw, remove all sharp edges so as not to
damage flexible pipe.

5. Degrease wing surface, down pipe and back of wing moulding with solvent.
Apply black silicone to bore and back of wing moulding. Carefully insert own
pipe into wing moulding and adhere to wing top. Adjust height of down pipe to
pre-determined mark as in paragraph 3. assemble stainless clamp to L bracket
with remaining nuts, bolts and washers.

6. Attach flexible pipe to down pipe with silicone and jubilee clip and route through
to air filter assembly, attach flexible pipe to air filter entry (on 300 defender it
may be necessary to use the reducer from 3.5” to 2.5” from the standard pipe
work).

7. Slide the ram scoop facing forward onto the stainless down pipe (adjust overall
height by trimming down the down pipe with hack saw as in paragraph 4 as
required). Adhere with silicone or stainless self tapper supplied by drilling small
hole under the front of ram scoop.

8. Finally remove excess silicone with a damp rag and replace wing grill.
Allow 48 HRS for silicone to cure before rotating ram scoop for deep wading.
Black silicone is a perishable product and is not supplied in the kit, but is available
from most motor factor and accessory shops. Tiger seal or equivalent may be used
instead of silicone.

D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

Basically the ECU gets a signal and then once it adjusts the engine it offer a ground to run the relay or compressor clutch. Comes in on pin #27 to the ECU (power) then comes out as a ground on pin #33.
Same when you shut off the device, it makes sure the stepper doesn’t go bat-shit trying to compensate and keeps the idle smooth and steady.
In a 95 D90 this is wired into your AC at the multi connector near the evap. On 94s it is in the engine bay near the heater (same place on 110s). So you can wire a relay to run the compressor clutch or if you have a 2 wire clutch just use the output for the ground on the clutch.
There are inputs in the 14CUX for the automatic gearbox and the heated windscreen, basically anything that requires the engine to adjust to a load is just putting in the right wires to the 14CUX. It can be done in a GEMS as well but its a little more work.

All Rovers, D90 Electrical, D90 Misc

I had 3″ flowmaster 40 series=nice on the trail, too loud on highway.
Borla=hated it, too loud/resonated
NRP=Nice sound
Magnaflow=great sound

———

All of the Borla exhausts I have heard are really loud and tend to drone. The Flowmaster 40 series is really loud, but the 70 series is pretty decent. I don’t know that Flowmasters flow very well, though. I haven’t heard Magnaflows on a Rover. I heard a NRP that was supposed to be a stainless version of the stock exhaust, and I didn’t think it was that loud. The main thing I can say, is that you shouldn’t be surprised how loud Borla is. Most people I know, especially females, dislike them.

———-

I have a Magnaflow, and like Chris’ dynomax - it is louder than stock but not as loud as the Borla. I am pleased with it.

———

D90 Misc

fan clutch wrench (36mm)

Sharp tap with a hammer and screwdriver

Reverse Thread

D90 Misc

Flex-a-lite 220

Replace A/C thermostat with the VW fan switch (Beck/Arnley 201-0809)

Put a piece of 2×4 under the bottom tabs of the radiator and bend/beat them flat. Then rivet a piece of 1×1 aluminum angle to the bottom. Use a 2×2 aluminum angle to make the top mount.

Use 2″ angle for mounting brackets.

D90 Chassis, D90 Electrical, D90 Misc

Informative Link Here

D90 Misc

It looks like the 4.6 swap details have been covered pretty well here. What is the auto box out of? You will want to use a ZF4HP22 out of a classic RR or D1 or 97 D90. The electronically shifted transmissions out of the D2 or P38 RR require their own ECU and it has to interface with the OBD2 computer for certain data inputs. The most effective swap you can do is to put the 4.6 block under your current fuel management system with the distributor and use a non-electronic ZF auto

D90 Drivetrain, D90 Misc

1 1/16 or a 27mm is a better fit.

D90 Drivetrain, D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

All 90/110 wheels are 33mm, only the latest XD/Wolf type are 20.6mm

ANR4636PM are Standard 5.5F x16 wheels for 90/110 are welded construction in primer finish, the earlier NRC7578 were rivetted construction.

ANR1543PM are 6.5L x 16 heavy duty rivtted construction

ANR5593PM are 6.5J x 16 x 20.6mm XD/Wolf are welded construction, or ANR4583PM rivetted construction

ANR5593PM is the tubed version of the Wolf rim.

ANR1534PM (20.6 Offset) is listed as One Ton rim .They are only suitable for tubed tyre usage.They are an inch wider with that extra inch going on the outside (ie it looks like a wider standard 110 steel wheel) with slightly less offset than the 5.5 inch wheels

272309 is an old 109 wheel. They are 5.5″ wide with a different offset than the anr4636.

(5.5 inch rims have 33mm of offset, the 6.5 inch rims have 20.6mm of offset).
————
Tubeless.
ANR4583PM 6.5J x 16 130 and Wolf XD
NTC5193PM 7.0 x 16 Discovery

Tubed.
NRC7578PM 5.5F x 16 (riveted centre) 90 and 110
ANR4636PM 5.5F x 16 (welded centre) 90 and 110
NTC4135PM 6.0J x 16 (riveted centre) 90 only
ANR4635PM 6.0J x 16 (welded centre) 90 only
ANR1534PM 6.5L x 16 HD 110 and 130
ANR5593PM 6.5J x 16 130 and Wolf XD

—————–

Land Rover Wheel Sizes
Model Rim Dia Width Offset Part#
88 ‘59 thru ‘67 16″ 5″ 1″ 231601PM
88 ‘67 thru ‘74 15″ 6″ 1″ NLA
109 ‘59 thru ‘71 16″ 5.5″ 1.75″ 272309
109, 90, 110, 88 16″ 5.5″ 2″ NRC7578PM
130, 110 USA 16″ 6.5″ 2.25″ ANR1534PM

——————-

272309 109, offset from rim centre line 1 13/16″ (1.8125″) Road wheel, well base rim type, 5.5″ x 16″
568966 109, offset from rim centre line 1 5/16″ (1.3125″) Road wheel, well base rim type, 5.5″ x 16″

D90 Exterior, D90 Misc, D90 Suspension

UpDate!

Get a Mocal SP1 oil filter adapt and some 8AN fittings, it works better and cleans up the routing of the lines as well. ECR.

——–

I don’t know why I haven’t heard of these guys til now:

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

Also found a source of obscure fittings and adapters: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/category_s/207.htm

And that 3/8bspt male - 3/8npt female: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com…042-parent.htm

For future reference for the D90 folks Part # 7005-08-20 is 20mm to 8AN: http://brennaninc.com/series.asp?item=7005

All Rovers, D90 Drivetrain, D90 Misc

Odometer Repair Procedure HERE

D90 Electrical, D90 Misc

The parts catalog lists a weatherstrip (MWC4771) and a filler strip (302178).

D90 Exterior, D90 Interior, D90 Misc

D90 Stainless Hardware List spreadsheet is found here.

D90 Chassis, D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

Does anyone have an online source for the 5 - 1/8 F50G-S Adapter fitting from Parker Hydraulics?
Thanks.

I got mine from http://www.cincinnatihose.com/

I bought my #5 o-ring boss to 1/4″ NTP adapter from Capitol Bearing, www.capitolbearing.com, in Round Rock. Then I bought a 1/4″ to 1/8″ bushing. The part number for the straight adapter is 2216-4-5s. The FAQ indicates they will ship parts.

D90 Chassis, D90 Electrical, D90 Misc

A bumper mounted Jerry Can holder and HiLift Jack mount build up here.

D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

Disco window regulators usually just break their little plastic rollers. One new regulator installed, and there goes nearly a couple hundred bucks! The rear windows use only one roller per side and most commonly fail. We offer a set of two metal rollers for both rear doors for $79.98 with instructions. Made from 6061T6 aluminum, these are perfect replacements and you’ll never revisit this problem again! (Single metal rollers available too for $49.95)

http://www.falconworks.net/britold/brit.htm

D90 Interior, D90 Misc, Discovery 1

For future reference to anyone needing to know how to remove the (automatic trans) shifter handle on a 97 D-90.

1- The top plate which is textured can be popped out using a tiny screwdriver (note: once you clean the area arround same one side will have a bit more of a gap than the others)

2- Inside there is a retaining clip. Lift the clip/bushing up with needlenose pliers and rotate 1/2 turn. This will allow you to remove the clip (slide over). Remove clip and then lift the bushing out (under the clip) which holds the button. You can now slide the button out (may as well clean it)

3- Note there is a small spring on the inside right (just FYI to avoid loss) .

Then there is a 19mm nut (will require deepwell)

Of course then she pulls right up.

All Rovers, D90 Drivetrain, D90 Interior, D90 Misc

For mounting the liftgate, I drilled the rear of the top to attach the series liftgate hinges and used button head hex bolts for a smoother, rivet-like appearance. I also removed the rear washer jet and plugged it using another identical bolt. Two 30-pound gas struts were required to support the lift gate (I didnt want to use the original series prop-rods) and the brackets are stainless ones which seemed the proper shape. All the gas-strut stuff was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Since I had a used, imperfect headliner, I didnt feel bad cutting it to accomodate the hinges.

——

Here are the pictures you requested. I’ll email a larger format to you also. just thought I’d post here in case anyone is also interested.

The gate is locked shut by a flange at the bottom of the gate that tucks behind the tailgate when closed. Because of this the T-handle is not necessary. The hole in the gate for the locking T-handle is covered by a LR badge that is stuck on by glue / tape. I think you can get them at R.N.

More pictures here.

The brackets are stainless stuff from McMaster.

One thing that worked out was that the triangular shape of the lower brackets made a perfect surface for the locking rods to grip. When the gate is closed, you turn the handle and the pegs extend out and engage the angled side. It worked out to be just right to squeeze the seal and hold the gate in the right position when closed. The seal is compressed enough that nothing rattles.

More pictures here.
——

Randy- are you using the lift gate in normal series configuration? i.e where a drop-down tailgate closes first and then the lift gate closes second? Also, what came on your lift gate? Was it stripped? The stock set up is a strip that rivets to the outside bottom edge, and a seal retained by a metal strip that rivets to the inside bottom edge of the lift gate.

If you want the stock series parts you can have them cheap (I’ll have to have my wife hunt around for them, they’re back at home). I couldnt use them since the NAS tailgate must be closed after the lift gate because of the tire carrier and brake light bar. I bought a piece of LR weatherstripping that looked like it would work, I’d have to check the part number if you wanted that.

I also have the series prop rods you were asking George about if you want them so you dont have to use gas struts. I looked at both options and went with the gas struts - much easier.

The gas struts are 2x 9416K2 in the 30lb strength
I used 4x 9416K86 M6 nylon ball socket fittings
2x 9512K12 304 stainless ball brackets
and 1x each (left and right) 9512K16 and 9512K17

Note that each of the parts are available in a variety of materials. You can even get 100% marine grade stainless gas struts for 75 bucks each. I went the economical route except for the brackets which are much nicer in stainless. The nylon ball joint sockets cost like 1/8 of the stainless and I figure will resist rust at least as well

I used a 332564 for the seal. It think its a series rear door seal of some kind. Got it from George.

—–

My seal is simple and effective - it is made with a thin metal retainer - a strip of 1/2″ wide 1/8″ thick annodized aluminum - from the hardware store and a piece of garage door bottom seal -(dense foam strip with abrasion resistance) I chose that seal because it is chemically engineered to withstand UV radiation. Mine has worked quite well over the past few years. I will post some picks of it for you this evening. It is very simple to attach - I used the series of holes that are already in bottom of the lift gate to attachethe unit with small SS machine screws.

More pictures here.
——

The hinge (large u shaped thingy) is the same part POE to 1960s Series truck.
The bracket that bolts to the roof on a POE is different than a Series rig, but both will work. A little shaping and the Series Rover one will rivet right in, or you can make a simple corss bolt bracket just like the POE unit.
The set up I used was a 1960s Series liftgate with 1960s hardware and some gas struts from NAPA.
Then added a small steel piece at the bottom of the liftegate to have a seal surtface between the tailgate and the liftagte.
I made the glass bigger though to match the side galss and give a better rear view.

——

I did a very similar thing a while back. Got the parts from Canada off a parts series truck… the hinge brackets needed a little choppling to make fit properly but it was really easy.. then as mike said rivit in and you have a liftgate.

One thing that was tricky was getting the spacing for the seal right. But it was not that big of a deal, just took some planning… good luck!!

——

I got the brackets from Rovers North…I’m attaching two pix to show the cuts I decided to make on the brackets…once cut like this and excess metal bent out of the way (too lazy to cut and trim!) they slide right in…there is a right and left to the brackets…I bolted the hinges to the rear door first then hung the door on the lip of the upper edge of the opening and made sure it was centered…then I marked where the hinges lined up left and right…then I positioned the brackets, marked the rivet holes…drilled and riveted in place…the pins for the brackets (must be ordered as they don’t come with the brackets are weird…one of them was too big so dry test em first…also see 3rd pic of completed do-it-yourself POE liftgated soft top to hard top conversion…man it was cold without that liftgate…I really prefer the liftgate idea to a door because you can drive with lumber sticking out the back with the liftgate open…also great rain shield while standing out in weather.

More pictures here.
——

I’m not sure how the liftgate is configured, but the f-glass lift gate has a flange along its bottom edge that prevents the liftgate from opening when the tailgate is closed. A piece of weatherstripping attaches to this flange and presses against the top of the inside face of the tailgate creating a seal. It would seem a simple matter to take an L-shaped piece of aluminum and screw it to the bottom of the POE liftgate to replicate this flange, then attach a piece of weather stripping to the flange and be all set up.

——

In the POE configuration, you don’t use all the Series locks and handles etc (also, I can’t remember how the Series liftgate used to work on my old Series IIa)…I removed all that stuff and am mounting a 3″ metal strip on the inside bottom edge of the liftgate which will have a piece of the weather seal (that goes around the rear opening) on it…the tailgate will lock and keep the liftgate closed. All I have to do now is figure out how to mount two gas struts and where to source the struts and their mounting brackets…any suggestions are welcome.

——

dimensions on Center Line of mounting bolts:

Open - 21 - 3/4″
Closed - 18”

D90 Chassis, D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

www.HeadlinerExpress.com

I can help any questions you may have pertaining to your Headliner & Sunroof repair needs. This is what we do for a living full time in Florida (28 years). We service Landrover or Orlando for the last 16 years.

Cost of a headliner job depends on the trim shop. Prices will vary by hundreds of dollars.

NOTE: Important to have a shop that deals in the proper thickness material factory material is 1/8th inch. You will need to make sure the recovering is done in on piece. In order to do so they will need to use any where from 62 to 64 inch material for “width”.

Most shops only work on domestic cars with out sunroofs which take the 1/4inch and are only 54 inches wide. (Not designed for Land rovers). ¼ inch 54 inches wide will not cover your complete board in either the series or rang rover models.

We charge $585 installed with a life time warranty.

Our company is authorized through the factory rep here in Florida to handle Land Rover Orlando’s warranty related issues. The same material we use at the dealerships are available on our website for retail Landrover customers.

As per your button issue like others have mentioned here on your list you can simply take your part either to Napa auto parts of Discount Auto Parts and find a close match. The only difference is that they won’t have the felt coating on them. The buttons really are designed to keep the corners of the Headliner Board flush against the roof braces. To give a appealing look to the finished product.

If I can help in any way just email me

Florida Landrover Club is having their FALL RALLY is this weekend 10/19-21
www.Floridalandroverclub.com
__________________
www.HeadlinerExpress.com

D90 Misc

This is a 1994 Defender 90 w/ a 5 spd, V8, 3.9 liter engine w/ 99K, A/C, power steering, 4WD, and has the sport package-full cage, brush guard, towing, and running boards. The person who owned it before me used it for a daily commuter to San Fransisco and racked up about 40K miles on it. Since owning it, I have put only 4,000 miles on it and never did any hard wheelin in it. The previous owner replaced the clutch and tranny, probably due the stop and go of Frisco traffic, and had everything serviced at the LR in Frisco. The car has always been garaged (until a month ago-bought another toy) and has no oxidation, rust, body wrought or major chips on paint. I am selling it due to the lack of use and don’t like it being outside. The only problem I had w/ the car was a burst oil cooler line and replaced thermostat, it was just smogged 12/05. The only flaw on vehicle is a small 2″ x 1″ dent on the front pass. side fender- which is hard to see because it is blocked by brush guard. It also has newer BF Goodrich A/T tire w/ 4,000 miles on them. Kelly Blue book this vehicle at over $28,000 w/o any extras.
Extras include: 4 Hella Rallye Lights and assembly (currently not on vehicle), Genuine LR diamond plated & black powder coated rocker panels and wings, new EMU front and back shocks, new Optima 800 battery, European metal hard top- painted red & white- the top is rhino lined on the inside w/ diamond plate on the inside door and has a flip-up sun roof. Custom full roll cage to fit hard top- better than original, original protective under coating-a little weathered but still has coating, Spintech exhause system, and a Sony Explod CDplayer. I have box speakers sitting in the back- that will need to be mounted-have not reset them since cage rebuild. I live in Paso Robles, CA and you are welcomed to come take it for a ride or you can e-mail me at sylvia100@charter.net To see pictures go to:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/…0AbN3Ldk2ZsmLiw I really hate to sell it, the car runs perfect but can’t justify it to my wife to keep it. It is super clean, always garaged, rust free rarely off-roaded Defender w/ a European Hard Top, new tranny and tires..won’t find one nicer at this price…….$24,000 OBO.

D90 Misc

Paint Codes

Brooklands Green LRC334/HUX
Cornish Cream LRC374/NCN
Portofino Red LRC390/CUF
Ardennes Green Metallic Clearcoat LRC413/HUL
Beluga Black Clearcoat LRC416/PUE
Aries LRC424/JUH
Plymouth Blue Metallic Clearcoat LRC434/JUJ
Westminster Metallic Clearcoat LRC445/LUQ
Alpine White LRC456/NUC
Pembroke Metallic Clearcoat LRC476/LUG
Roman Bronze Metallic Clearcoat LRC479/GUA
Caprice Teal Pearl Clearcoat LRC533/UMQ
Montpellier Pearl Clearcoat LRC536/CUY
AA Yellow LRC559/FMB
Coniston Green LRC570/HYE
Avalon Blue Pearl Clearcoat LRC575/JUV
British Racing Green Metallic Clearcoat LRC617
Carmen Red Pearl Clearcoat LRC843/COG
Mosswood Metallic Clearcoat LRC987/HOT
Beluga Black Clearcoat LRC416/PUE
Tangiers Orange LRC761

D90 Exterior, D90 Misc

NAS DEFENDER 90 Specifications:

MSRP at time of first sale:

EQUIPMENT: (standard)

Cubby box with Clarion AM/FM cassette
2 Drink holders
Swing away tire carrier
Tonneau cover
Rubber floor mats

OPTIONS:
Air Conditioning
Numerous tops
Rear safari cage (option on 1994-5, standard 1997)
Numerous lights, running boards, racks, winch mounts, etc
CD player in 1997

EXTERIOR DEFENDER 90s:

cc: Clear coat paint
m: Metallic paint

INTERIORS DEFENDER 90s:

RUNNING GEAR 1994-1995:

RUNNING GEAR 1997:

BRAKES: All models

SUSPENSION: All models
Solid axle front and rear, coil sprung, Front and Rear sway bar standard

STEERING: All models
Power assisted

FUEL MILEAGE:
1994-1995 Models:
13 City/ 16 Highway
1997 Models:
14 City/ 15 Highway

15.6 gallon fuel tank (all models)

TOWING ABILITY: All models
Trailer with brakes: 3500 lbs
Trailer with no brakes: 1650 lbs

OFF ROAD STATS:

SIZE and SHAPE:

ODD BALL FACTS:

In late 1994, 65 “port of Entry” hardtops came into the US
with a rare tailgate/ lift gate set up in the rear. These units were also
missing the interior trim and safari cage of the 1995 and 1997 Station
Wagons.
The 1994 Defender 90 is Four Wheeler Magazines “Four Wheeler of
the Year”.
Only the 1994 Defender was sold in Canada. Small sales figures meant the
model was dropped from the Canadian market.
The 1997 Defender 90 was the first automatic Defender ever produced for
any country.
No 1996 Defender was offered.

1994 Defenders came with BF Goodrich Mud-Terrains. The 1995 and 1997 models
came with BF Goodrich All Terrains due to customer complaints of tire noise.

Source: Eastcoastrovers.com
More info at there website here.

D90 Misc