On the ATF its 16 pints - 2 gallons Dextron/Mercon IV - you can put it in the PS as well.
On the TC gear oil, get 3Qts - at least, as it goes in the Diffs as well. Mobil 1 sythetic 75W-90, valvoline 85W-140 synthetic blend.
On coolant, don’t bother with the 50/50 mix, get the full strength stuff, 2 gallons. Prestone is fine.
Brake fluid - I have Valvoline Full Synthetic. Exceeds DOT 4.
For future reference to anyone needing to know how to remove the (automatic trans) shifter handle on a 97 D-90.
1- The top plate which is textured can be popped out using a tiny screwdriver (note: once you clean the area arround same one side will have a bit more of a gap than the others)
2- Inside there is a retaining clip. Lift the clip/bushing up with needlenose pliers and rotate 1/2 turn. This will allow you to remove the clip (slide over). Remove clip and then lift the bushing out (under the clip) which holds the button. You can now slide the button out (may as well clean it)
3- Note there is a small spring on the inside right (just FYI to avoid loss) .
Then there is a 19mm nut (will require deepwell)
Of course then she pulls right up.
Disco window regulators usually just break their little plastic rollers. One new regulator installed, and there goes nearly a couple hundred bucks! The rear windows use only one roller per side and most commonly fail. We offer a set of two metal rollers for both rear doors for $79.98 with instructions. Made from 6061T6 aluminum, these are perfect replacements and you’ll never revisit this problem again! (Single metal rollers available too for $49.95)
The procomp 923560 (front) is 22.3″ extended and 13.6 compressed, and the procomp 923573 (rear) is 23.3″ extended and 14.6″ compressed, which is consistant with a 2″ lift for a Land Rover. And, can be purchased at any Advance Auto.
Procomps that will fit the front:
part number/extended/compressed
924560 23.9 14.4
925560 24.7 14.8
926560 25.8 15.4
and for the rear:
924573 24.8 15.4
925573 25.7 15.8
926573 26.8 16.4
I did notice that the flange on the D2 3rd was thinner. But, this shouldnt be an issue with studs on the axle housing. Probably a problem for those using a d1 3rd on a d2, might need to replace the studs.
CAUTION: If a sensor is removed for any
reason, a NEW sensor bush and seal must
be fitted.
Remove
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Disconnect required sensor electrical
connection, located on inner wing [fender] panel.
3. Remove sensor lead from clips.
4. Clean area surrounding sensor to prevent
ingress of dirt. Using a suitable lever pry sensor
from mounting bush.
5. Release harness cable ties, remove sensor lead
from vehicle.
6. Remove top swivel retaining bolts complete with
brake jump hose and sensor seal. Remove
sensor bush.
Refit
7. Insert new sensor bush and seal.
8. Refit brake jump hose bracket, coat bolts with
Loctite 270.
9. Lightly coat new sensor using EP 90 oil. Push
sensor through bush until it contacts exciter ring.
Sensor will be ’knocked back’ to correct position
when vehicle is driven.
10. Secure sensor lead in original position.
11. Reconnect sensor electrical connection.
12. Drive vehicle to ensure ABS warning light is
extinguished.
SENSOR RINGS
The rear sensor ring is assembled to the rear brake
disc to form part of the rear hub assembly. See
REAR AXLE AND FINAL DRIVE, Repair, Rear Hub
Assembly
The front sensor ring is a toothed ring on the axle
shaft which forms part of the front stub axle assembly.
See FRONT AXLE AND FINAL DRIVE, Overhaul,
Front Stub Axle, Constant Velocity Joint and
Swivel Pin Housing ABS
I have the same set on my 97 Disco running a 4.6 with a 5 speed and they are more than enough to cool the engine. I also used the same set on the Series 109 with V8 I built last year.
The fans are made by Flex -o- lite and retail for $260.00 at Summit Racing. Part number is FLX-210 / 220, I think.
LRRForums