You can use that or if you have lockers and want extra protection, use 140W for extra protection.
I run A GL6 rated 140W with my Detroit and T.T. and they stay nice and quiet.
It is just a more H.D. gear oil, that runs cooler and protects better.
Some people say it is too heavy and will cause poor gas mileage, well I get between 15 and 16 MPG.
Running this oil has eliminated all the funny noises my Detroit would make before I switched.
If you don’t want to go to this weight at least use a synthetic or GLS rated 90W.
DII Chassis, DII Driveline, DII Suspension
Drop it down about 2″ to clear driveshaft. Bolts are 8*1.25.
DII Chassis
This question was asked in the August 2004 issue of Land Rover Owner….
“Q: The brake pedal travel on my 2001 Discovery Series II is so long I lose my confidence in stopping the vehicle safely. The brakes were fine when I bought the vehicle brand new, and to date it has covered 9000 miles. They started to fade at 4000 miles, so I took the Discovery to the dealership and they replaced the master cylinder. But the brake pedal distance increased so the dealer replaced the master cylinder yet again. Finally, a mechanic who services my trucks, suggested fitting new, thicker brake pads, and this was an improvement for the last 3000 miles. But now the pedal, again, seems to travel too close to the floor for my liking. I understand that this brake concern was fixed on the new 2003 Discovery.”
“A: Most SII Discoverys do not experience this problem, though we have come across it on Discoverys that are driven quickly. It’s due to the seals on the front brake caliper pistons-improved seals were used on the 03 model. The later seals cannot be used in the earlier caliper. The 03 model has new calipers, part no SEG000030 and SEG000060, though the carriers for the calipers retain the same part numbers for the earlier model.”
DII Chassis
Start with a cold engine, top off the coolant bottle, reinstall the cap, set the heater to the hottest position and highest fan speed, and start the engine. Let it warm up till the hoses feel hot and the t/stat has oppened. Now run the RPM’s up and down between idle and 2000 RPM’s, occasionily squeezing the upper radiator hose.
Doing this for 3 or 4 minutes should allow the air bubble to pass from the engine, thru the heater and back into the coolant bottle. Turn off the heater and go drive, it should be better, if not get back to me and we will talk about step 2.
DII Chassis, DII Driveline
Install tips.
Get a friend preferably 2 to help fitting it, it is impossible alone, heavy and awkward.
Finish fitting it first, then paint it, then refit and tighten down.
If you live in the rust belt, consider having it galvanized, I may still pull it and do that. Fixing spots that get hit by flying gravel, or very large rocks is easy with a rattle can but galvanizing is the bomb.
I needed to straighten one of my bumper mounts to make it square to the truck with a BFH, which is also useful with a cold chisel to pop the tacked stock bumper sqare nuts off.
I had to grind down the rear lip of the body by a fraction so the bumper would snug up to the rear, this part is steel so prime and rustproof afterwards.
You may find it bolts right up after the cuts, or you may find that it is true that what works on one side of a rover doesn’t neccesarily work on the other.
Take your time, make it right.
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You could use the stock hitch with it by removing the bent plate that uses the 2 factory bolts under the receiver, the bumper still uses 4 bolts on the brackets plus 3 in each wheel well. You would loose a lot of the clearance you gained though. The plate below the receiver is notched so you can bend it to fit perfectly, a couple good hits with a BFH would bend it far enough to whack it back the other way and break it off so you can use the fatory hitch I believe. These are fabbed to order so you could probably get it without the plate there to begin with.
DII Chassis, DII Exterior
The fellow who does the work on our Disco II was previously a shop foreman at the local Land Rover dealership. He tells me there is two different front calipers on early DIIs, which means 99-01, I believe. There is a bulletin on it, but not a warranty replacement. This is because the grooves cut into the original calipers for the rubber seals are too wide, therefore the piston moves away from the pad too much when the brake is release. This causes a lower than necessary pedal, and a slight delay in brake response due to the extra travel of the piston to the pad. He tells me that there is an updated replacement caliper which the dealers use when doing full brake jobs, which has more pronounced ribs along its spine than the original. I think the part number is the same, and the only visual difference is the bigger ribs.
Source:LRO.com
DII Chassis, DII Driveline, DII Suspension
It’s a number 4 POSIDRIVE bit. They are hard to find, but no other bit will fit just right. The only place in my area that carries them for use with a ratchet is Sears. And you will need the torque of the ratchet as well as some penetrating lube, like Seafoam deep creep.
DII Chassis, DII Suspension
