MyRovers.com

I replaced mine with 8mm Magnecores a while back.

I really could not see how it could be done very practically without removing the upper air intake (I tried for a while, but my hands suffered).

The upper air intake is really not that bad at all to remove (may want to have a gasket handy for refitting though).

I have had the upper air intake off about 4 or 5 times now and here are a few things that worked for me:

-When removing the upper air intake there is a stud off of the passenger side of the intake that needs to come off. (This secures the metal coolant lines to/from the heater matrix). I remember it being a little tricky (I think), so I left it off to make future intake removals easier. The coolant lines seem plenty sturdy with only being bolted to the accessory drive bracket.

-Removing the entire plastic portion of the air intake from the air cleaner to the throttle body (including MAF sensor), just keeps things out of the way.

-Disconnecting the hose from the IAC valve to the upper air intake makes it much easier to get at the bolt under it.

-After disconnecting the return line from the throttle body de-icer, I pulled the plastic line all the way out and tied back. This helps when refitting the upper air intake as it can get in the way of setting it in place. After the intake is refitted the line can just be poked back through and reconnected.

-Removing the four screws holding the coil pack on, helped me to move it around a bit when unplugging/plugging in the wires and is also necessary for removal of the upper air intake as the top ones bolt to it. The two on the top were easy to get to using an 8mm socket with an extension and a swivel (on the socket end). I remember the two on the bottom being a PITA, so they never went back in. The bottom of the coil pack has a clip that clips onto the fuel rail, so I thought that between the top screws and the clip there was plenty of support for the coil pack. The coil pack has to be pushed/tilted back out of the way in order for the intake to be removed.

-After disconnecting all of the other obvious things like connectors for IAC, fuel purge, TPS sensor, brake booster, the other hose for the TB de-icer, and both throttle cables, the intake should be ready to unbolt and remove. Unclipping the wiring harness on the fire wall and letting it rest on top of the clips helps to keep it out of the way during removal.

-Once the intake was removed I put a towel or rag over the lower intake ports to prevent anything from dropping down there (I know it’s just common sense).

-It helped for me to climb in from the front and lay with my belly/chest on the alternator/AC pump and look directly down to see the top of the coil pack. At this point, I pulled the wiring harness on the fire wall toward me to get a better look.

-I removed each wire working from the top outer, then top inner, bottom outer and finally bottom inner. The reverse of this should be the order in which they are refitted as it prevents wires from obstructing your view or getting in the way of the one you are working on. I labeled each wire as I took them off the spark plug end, and matched as well as I could with the new ones (not a perfect match with the Mags). I wrapped a piece of tape on the coil end of each new wire and marked with wire number. I wrapped the tape in such a way as to leave a tab that could easily be flipped/turned to make reading the number easier.

-I actually connected each wire at the spark plug end and had the other end of each group bundled near each end of the coil pack, so once I was laying across the engine, I did not have to get back down for anything.

-I put some dielectric grease in each of the plug wires which made plugging them into the coil pack much easier (just don’t get any on the outside of the wire, or it may be hard to handle them).

-The RAVE CD has a picture of the wires connected to the coil pack (as looking from the back of the truck). Printing this out and having it up in the engine compartment with you helps alot. Not only does it show the correct numbering, but it also shows the proper routing of the wires, which also helps to keep it orderly.

-Again, working from the plugs in the bottom center of the coil pack, then bottom outer, top inner and finally top outer makes installation much easier.

-Being able to move the coil pack around a little while fitting the wires also made it easier for me.

-It’s a good idea to make sure the coil pack is pushed back out of the way before attempting to re-fit the upper air intake (it burned me a few times).

I have to say that doing the work up front to get the upper air intake out of the way really seemed to make actual replacement of the wires rather painless and orderly.

As I said before, this is what I have found to work for me. Others may not agree….

source:Discoweb.org

DII Driveline, DII Electrical

If you’re already replacing the bearings, you might as well replace
the races. At least on this go around. For about ~$10 it’s worth
it. Yearly repacking after that is all you should need for the short
term.

I used a brass rod and hammer to tap mine out. You don’t want to
score the inside of the hubs using steel or a chisel. Used a block
oak to hammer the new ones back in. Or get a local shop to press them
back in.

Check the database for replacement seals. The Timken ones went in
best. Do a search for message #106 and it’s related sub-posts.
My local trailer shop tried to sell me the ‘correct’ race (L68111) for
the bearing, but it was the wrong race for the hub. Had to argue
about the OD of it being the incorrect size, ending up going to NAPA.

Extract from message #106….
>”I beleive the actual inner bearing race part number is L68110.
>Part numer L68111 has a larger outside diameter(2.3612″ versus
>2.3280″)”

You could purchase one of the grease packers, they work OK (less
mess). But hand packing is OK too.

————-

Bearings and races should always be replaced as a set. Like Wally
said, it’s inexpensive and worth the peace of mind.

Sears sells a Brass drift set ($15) that is perfect for removing
bearing races. It’s manufactured by Mayhew and is sold online at a
number of places as well. http://tinyurl.com/abglo

If you are on a tighter budget you can find a hobby store or something
that sells round brass stock. Just get a 6″ length… something no
bigger than a 1/2″ diameter.

See if your local Autozone (or similar parts chain) rents tools. They
should have a bearing race/seal driver set. This will make quick work
of installing your races and seals. Should be able to rent for free.

—————

One more thing…

Sticking the races and seal(s)in the freezer for 10-15 minutes should
help them to go in a little easier.

DII Driveline, DII Suspension

The high/low ratios are 1.211:1 and 3.32:1 respectively.

———-

1st gear (2.48 ) x LO Range (3.27) x Axle Ratio (3.54) = a crawl ratio of 28.71

DII Driveline

The flowmaster I was considering was the (tamer) 50 series SUV muffler (see flowmaster’s sight for a sound clip).

(For and DII readers, #52557 was the closest match in size, i.e. in/out hole dia.)

DII Driveline

You can use that or if you have lockers and want extra protection, use 140W for extra protection.
I run A GL6 rated 140W with my Detroit and T.T. and they stay nice and quiet.

It is just a more H.D. gear oil, that runs cooler and protects better.
Some people say it is too heavy and will cause poor gas mileage, well I get between 15 and 16 MPG.
Running this oil has eliminated all the funny noises my Detroit would make before I switched.
If you don’t want to go to this weight at least use a synthetic or GLS rated 90W.

DII Chassis, DII Driveline, DII Suspension

Start with a cold engine, top off the coolant bottle, reinstall the cap, set the heater to the hottest position and highest fan speed, and start the engine. Let it warm up till the hoses feel hot and the t/stat has oppened. Now run the RPM’s up and down between idle and 2000 RPM’s, occasionily squeezing the upper radiator hose.
Doing this for 3 or 4 minutes should allow the air bubble to pass from the engine, thru the heater and back into the coolant bottle. Turn off the heater and go drive, it should be better, if not get back to me and we will talk about step 2.

DII Chassis, DII Driveline

I did notice that the flange on the D2 3rd was thinner. But, this shouldnt be an issue with studs on the axle housing. Probably a problem for those using a d1 3rd on a d2, might need to replace the studs.

DII Driveline, Discovery 1

Champion’s RN11YC4, now listed as the 322, gapped to .04. It has a copper core in the central electrode.

For a D1, the stock plug is a RN11YCC; it also has a copper core in the side electrode, not just the central electrode. It is a European plug, that isn’t directly available in the US (unless you go to a Rover dealership).

The platinum version of the RN11YC plug is a 3322. What’s interesting about it, is it has the copper core in the side electrode, like the European plug.

So, I use 3322 plugs. Not because they’re platinum, could care less about them being platinum; they work well, and they’re cheap.

Anti-seize is your friend.

DII Driveline, DII Electrical

The fellow who does the work on our Disco II was previously a shop foreman at the local Land Rover dealership. He tells me there is two different front calipers on early DIIs, which means 99-01, I believe. There is a bulletin on it, but not a warranty replacement. This is because the grooves cut into the original calipers for the rubber seals are too wide, therefore the piston moves away from the pad too much when the brake is release. This causes a lower than necessary pedal, and a slight delay in brake response due to the extra travel of the piston to the pad. He tells me that there is an updated replacement caliper which the dealers use when doing full brake jobs, which has more pronounced ribs along its spine than the original. I think the part number is the same, and the only visual difference is the bigger ribs.

Source:LRO.com

DII Chassis, DII Driveline, DII Suspension

U-joints are Precision 344. All three are the same. The centering kits are Precision 617.
Order from Rock auto for the best prices I’ve seen so far. I’ve rebuilt them. The hardest part is getting the old u-joints out of the DC side and getting the ball out of the old centering kit.
If you decide to do it, I can talk you through it. It’s not that bad just needs patience.

——-

Nope no special tools. You’ll need a vice and maybe a couple of old sockets to use to press the old u-joint caps out.
Remove the caps one side at a time. As in remove both caps on one side, then remove them on the opposite side and repeat. Like I said, takes patience.
Acouple of guys here have bought the parts and taken them to a drive shaft shop and got them installed cheap.

——–

3 Precision 344 u-joints and 1 Precision 617 centering kit from here.

——–

This link shows how to do rebuild.

DII Driveline

The OME 3″ lift is run by tons of D2 owners with no parts other than springs and shocks.
Front Driveshaft: The front driveshaft is not a problem on a D2. The GBR greasable ones are nice, but greasing the driveshaft has nothing to do with lifting the truck.

Rear Driveshaft: It will wear out a little quicker. When it does, you will start to get vibrations. That would be a good time to upgrade to a GBR rear driveshaft.

Brake lines: These are not a problem with any lift that runs an OME shock on a D2. The shock isn’t long enough to over extend the brake line. If you extend the shock you might have to change the brake lines…. so don’t extend the shocks.

ABS sensors: Same as brake lines.

Radius arms: Not necessary for either an OME or RoverTym (RTE) 3″ lift. The RoverTym information comes from Steve at RoverTym. Same with the rear.

Bottom line: The 3″ OME lift with 751s on the front and the 1″ spacer on the rear from EE is a comfortable lift that rarely if ever causes any other components to fail. The only item to pay attention to over time with this lift is the rear driveshaft.

Oh, and after you install the lift, GET AN ALIGNMENT.

DII Driveline