MyRovers.com

As DistantSmoke posted at the beginning of the thread, The Brown (with a Blue stripe) wires are switched on and distribute power when the ignition is on.

DII Electrical

I replaced mine with 8mm Magnecores a while back.

I really could not see how it could be done very practically without removing the upper air intake (I tried for a while, but my hands suffered).

The upper air intake is really not that bad at all to remove (may want to have a gasket handy for refitting though).

I have had the upper air intake off about 4 or 5 times now and here are a few things that worked for me:

-When removing the upper air intake there is a stud off of the passenger side of the intake that needs to come off. (This secures the metal coolant lines to/from the heater matrix). I remember it being a little tricky (I think), so I left it off to make future intake removals easier. The coolant lines seem plenty sturdy with only being bolted to the accessory drive bracket.

-Removing the entire plastic portion of the air intake from the air cleaner to the throttle body (including MAF sensor), just keeps things out of the way.

-Disconnecting the hose from the IAC valve to the upper air intake makes it much easier to get at the bolt under it.

-After disconnecting the return line from the throttle body de-icer, I pulled the plastic line all the way out and tied back. This helps when refitting the upper air intake as it can get in the way of setting it in place. After the intake is refitted the line can just be poked back through and reconnected.

-Removing the four screws holding the coil pack on, helped me to move it around a bit when unplugging/plugging in the wires and is also necessary for removal of the upper air intake as the top ones bolt to it. The two on the top were easy to get to using an 8mm socket with an extension and a swivel (on the socket end). I remember the two on the bottom being a PITA, so they never went back in. The bottom of the coil pack has a clip that clips onto the fuel rail, so I thought that between the top screws and the clip there was plenty of support for the coil pack. The coil pack has to be pushed/tilted back out of the way in order for the intake to be removed.

-After disconnecting all of the other obvious things like connectors for IAC, fuel purge, TPS sensor, brake booster, the other hose for the TB de-icer, and both throttle cables, the intake should be ready to unbolt and remove. Unclipping the wiring harness on the fire wall and letting it rest on top of the clips helps to keep it out of the way during removal.

-Once the intake was removed I put a towel or rag over the lower intake ports to prevent anything from dropping down there (I know it’s just common sense).

-It helped for me to climb in from the front and lay with my belly/chest on the alternator/AC pump and look directly down to see the top of the coil pack. At this point, I pulled the wiring harness on the fire wall toward me to get a better look.

-I removed each wire working from the top outer, then top inner, bottom outer and finally bottom inner. The reverse of this should be the order in which they are refitted as it prevents wires from obstructing your view or getting in the way of the one you are working on. I labeled each wire as I took them off the spark plug end, and matched as well as I could with the new ones (not a perfect match with the Mags). I wrapped a piece of tape on the coil end of each new wire and marked with wire number. I wrapped the tape in such a way as to leave a tab that could easily be flipped/turned to make reading the number easier.

-I actually connected each wire at the spark plug end and had the other end of each group bundled near each end of the coil pack, so once I was laying across the engine, I did not have to get back down for anything.

-I put some dielectric grease in each of the plug wires which made plugging them into the coil pack much easier (just don’t get any on the outside of the wire, or it may be hard to handle them).

-The RAVE CD has a picture of the wires connected to the coil pack (as looking from the back of the truck). Printing this out and having it up in the engine compartment with you helps alot. Not only does it show the correct numbering, but it also shows the proper routing of the wires, which also helps to keep it orderly.

-Again, working from the plugs in the bottom center of the coil pack, then bottom outer, top inner and finally top outer makes installation much easier.

-Being able to move the coil pack around a little while fitting the wires also made it easier for me.

-It’s a good idea to make sure the coil pack is pushed back out of the way before attempting to re-fit the upper air intake (it burned me a few times).

I have to say that doing the work up front to get the upper air intake out of the way really seemed to make actual replacement of the wires rather painless and orderly.

As I said before, this is what I have found to work for me. Others may not agree….

source:Discoweb.org

DII Driveline, DII Electrical

You don’t HAVE to remove the intake, but be prepared to spend A LONG time with your knees on the radiator and your head against the hood. One thing that helps is taking a long pry bar and place the handle end against the A/C lines. Tap the lines back carefully, and now you’ve got a bit more room.

DII Electrical

Champion’s RN11YC4, now listed as the 322, gapped to .04. It has a copper core in the central electrode.

For a D1, the stock plug is a RN11YCC; it also has a copper core in the side electrode, not just the central electrode. It is a European plug, that isn’t directly available in the US (unless you go to a Rover dealership).

The platinum version of the RN11YC plug is a 3322. What’s interesting about it, is it has the copper core in the side electrode, like the European plug.

So, I use 3322 plugs. Not because they’re platinum, could care less about them being platinum; they work well, and they’re cheap.

Anti-seize is your friend.

DII Driveline, DII Electrical

Spark plus make/type: Champion RC11 PYP B4 Gap 1.00 mm (0.040 in)

DII Electrical

In the USA, a DII auto will not shift out of Park unless you have your foot on the brakes.

That is because of a locking solenoid which is triggered by a switch on the foot brake.

So what happens if something goes wrong with the brake pedal sensor? You may find that you cannot shift out of Park and drive off if it fails.

In March 2003 edition of Land Rover Enthusiast magazine, there is an unofficial quick fix that was mentioned by Kevin Girling, a correspondant from North America.

This is the procedure as follows to get out of Park:

1. Open the rear door
2. Whilst being very careful not to damage the rear window heating elements, remove and swap the two wires closest to the door hinges.
3. Close the door and start the engine.
4. Switch on the rear window heater, which will no longer work. However the saftey interlink from the brake pressure switch is now disabled.

You can now shift out of Park.

This quick fix works because the third rear stop light, mounted on the glass at the top of the rear window, works off the same power source.

With thanks to Lawrance Lee.

source: disco2.com

DII Electrical, DII Interior

This solution will enable you to be able to disable ETC & ABS, when the CDL is locked, by pressing and holding the switch whilst starting the car. If you do not press the switch when you start the car, then ABS & ETC will NOT be disabled. This is the complete opposite to how the SLABS ECU would normally act.
Parts and tools required

* Phillips screwdriver
* Soldering iron
* Crimping tool
* Heat shrink sleeving or insulation tape
* 2.8mm spade connectors
* Light gauge insulated cable to run 2 lengths from the back of the centre console to where you put the switch (binacle or facia panel)
* LR Front Foglight switch, Part # YUG102620

Instructions

1. Unclip the gaiter from the Hi/Low stick.
2. Unscrew the 2 screws under the gaiter and 2 from within the cubby box.
3. Lift the back of the centre console and support.
4. Locate a black header block (wires entering from one side only). There will be an orange one next to it.
5. Find the 3 Blue/Black wires (they will be at one end) and cut the 3rd one, counting from the edge, about 70mm from the header.
6. Solder and insulate the two lengths of wire to the two cut Blue/Black wires.
7. Remove blank switch from it’s housing and swap the switch front fascia with the fascia of your foglight switch, giving you a proper switch with a blank face.
8. Run the two lengths of wire to where you’re going to put the switch.
9. Remove about 3mm of insulation from the end of the wires and crimp on the male spades.
10. Connect wires to terminals 1 & 4 of the switch. The numbers are stamped onto the switch by the terminals.
11. Push switch into its housing.
12. Now test the system by locking the CDL and switching on the ignition - ETC & ABS lights will stay off after initial diagnostics.

With thanks to Mark Casey

(Source: disco2.com)

DII Electrical

Introduction

The first question many people will be asking is, “Why would I want to do this anyway?” Well, there’s an answer to that. In the standard system, the ETC computer knows the status of the CDL, and it’s this computer that controls the CDL light.

Now, in a standard vehicle, this wouldn’t matter. However, if you’ve added the facility to lock the centre diff, either with an aftermarket kit or with Land Rover Genuine Parts, this can be a problem. If the CDL is locked and unlocked with the engine still running there’s no problem; the ETC and CDL can be active at the same time. However, if you lock the CDL and subsequently have to restart the car (e.g. if you stall the engine), the ETC computer will detect that the CDL is locked, and will consequently disable the ABS module, meaning you have no ABS, ETC or HDC. This isn’t a desireable situation. This guide shows you how to rectify this problem.
Parts and tools required

* Phillips screwdriver
* Soldering iron
* Crimping tool
* Insulated spade connectors
* Light gauge insulated cable of sufficient length to run from the transfer case along the transfer case breather pipe, into the cabin and up to behind the instrument binnacle
* Insulated capping crimp

Instructions

1. Swage or solder an insulated spade fitting to the light gauge insulated cable.
2. On the transfer case find the CDL switch. It is the block with the electrical connectors to the rear of the CDL actuator. It’s located on the passenger side (for a right hand drive vehicle) of the CDL and is the outer of the 2 connectors.
3. Disconnect the wire colour coded “Black with a Blue stripe” and replace with the wire and spade connection you have previously made up. Run the wire up into the cabin behind the electrical compt. door.
4. Now REMOVE THE SRS (AIRBAG) FUSE. We don’t want anyone having an unpleasant surprise.
5. Remove the steering column nacelle - 3 screws underneath
6. To remove the cover over the instrument binnacle you need to remove the 2 screws that are located horizontally at the base of the dash immediately above the steering column (lower steering column to lowest position to gain access) or remove steering column cover. Once removed, you pull cover forwards and up as it is slotted onto 2 locating cleats at the rear or window end. On mine one jammed slightly and I had to use a long screw driver to ease the cover off the locating cleat.
7. Above the tacho are two connectors. Pull the RH one (the bigger one). Looking into the female side of the connector count along the top row to pin 8. That is the CDL indicator wire, black with a blue stripe. Cut it and cap the end running on into the loom. I used an insulated capping crimp.
8. Run the wire from the diff lock switch up behind the dash to behind the binnacle and splice it in to the wire running into the connector. Voila - the SLABS computer now will not know whether the diff is locked or not and the TC and ABS lights will not come on, only the diff locked light.
9. Reassemble in reverse order.

With thanks to John Horton

(Source: Disco2.com)

DII Electrical

Pull the codes and it will tell you what sensor ABC or D

A= FL
B=FR
C=RL
D=RR

DII Electrical