Being 6′3″ with long legs I have always felt a little cramped in the drivers seat of my DII. There are several long trips coming up for me and I decided it was time to look into modifying the driver seat base to allow for more travel.
Looking at the motorized drive mechanism showed that it was at it’s maximum travel, yet there was still room on the track for more travel towards the rear. The first obstacle was a metal stops located inside the tracks that were designed to limit seat travel. My Saber Saw with a metal cutting blade made for a quick removal of the metal piece from both tracks.
The next obstacle was the drive mechanism itself. The existing mounting locations restricted seat travel to the stock limits. By relocating the anchor points for the drive mechanism I could customize the travel to my needs. To test my concept I cut two 9″ pieces of aluminum stock and made holes in one end to fit the drive mechanism’s mounting bolt and a 1/4″ hole at the other end to attach to an existing hole on the seat base.
I attached the bracket to the seat drive mechanism and to an unused hole in the seat frame with a 1/4″ grade 8 bolt and lock nut. I used steel stock and grade 8 hardware for the finished modification as this bracket is holding the seat in place and should be as strong as practical.
Here you can see the position of the seat at it’s original maximun travel location.
This is the seat at it’s new maximum travel position after installing the two new brackets.
As you can see there is a drastic increase in the rearward travel of the seat allowing for ample leg room. In fact I can move the seat back to a point where I can just barely reach the pedals and steering wheel.
This modification took about an hour and required the following items.
2ea. 1″ x 9″ metal stock
2ea. 1/4-20 bolts with lock nuts
Hand Drill with 1/4″ and 25/64″ bits
#8 metric hex wrench
Sabre Saw with metal cutting blade
Disclaimer:
Please be aware that any modifications to your seat are done at your own risk and without any suggestion or reccomendation from myself. This information is for reference only is not to be used as anything but that. This modification may effect the seats structural stength and will most likely void any warranty as it relates to seat failures. Use this information at your own risk.
DII Interior
In the USA, a DII auto will not shift out of Park unless you have your foot on the brakes.
That is because of a locking solenoid which is triggered by a switch on the foot brake.
So what happens if something goes wrong with the brake pedal sensor? You may find that you cannot shift out of Park and drive off if it fails.
In March 2003 edition of Land Rover Enthusiast magazine, there is an unofficial quick fix that was mentioned by Kevin Girling, a correspondant from North America.
This is the procedure as follows to get out of Park:
1. Open the rear door
2. Whilst being very careful not to damage the rear window heating elements, remove and swap the two wires closest to the door hinges.
3. Close the door and start the engine.
4. Switch on the rear window heater, which will no longer work. However the saftey interlink from the brake pressure switch is now disabled.
You can now shift out of Park.
This quick fix works because the third rear stop light, mounted on the glass at the top of the rear window, works off the same power source.
With thanks to Lawrance Lee.
source: disco2.com
DII Electrical, DII Interior
Seen the threads on clunking and chirping. And the issues with windshield mounts and the dash rattle in the middle. Don’t think this is my issue. My squeak sounds like two pieces of styrofoam rubbing together. Best way I can describe it.
I removed the metal panel under the steering wheel last week when I hard wired my GPS unit in. I noticed there is a piece of styrofoam in there but not sure what it does. Was thinking of removing it or wrapping it in duct tape or something and try that.
I’ve had this same noise on my 01. I’ve now learned to keep a can of WD40 with me. It is the rubber “bushings” in the steering linkage in the engine compartment. When they get dry or dirty, they start to sound just like the noise you described. It does sound like its coming from the dash or inside the cabin in the steering column but is actually under the hood. I spray the hell out of every joint along the steering column and the noise goes away for about 2 months. When it starts again. just “shoot it” with WD 40 again. I asked a LR service tech. about it originally and he turned me onto the WD40 and the source of the noise.
DII Interior
How to change from *C to *F on the climate control display.
Press and hold the air circulation button
At the same time, press and hold the on/off button for three seconds.
A bleep will sound to indicate that the conversion has taken place.
source:discoweb.org
DII Interior
