The ARB winch bumper with my existing super winch x9+ fitted. The winch has a dyneema winch rope, but my billet alluminum hawse did not fit/line up properly, so had to go for the rolled fairlead from a warn 8274.
The D3 battery has been replaced with a Optima red top & the winch runs from a yellow top which is in the box next to the ABS brake thingy do dad.
A battery management system has been installed behind the new battery to sort this lot out. It allows split charge, separate use plus combination of the batteries when wanted.
I have a remote operated winch cut out. The unit is under the bumper next to the winch and is operated from the driver seat.
The main solenoid control block is the sealed one from Allbright, mounted behind the grill.
The vehicle is due to feature in a forth coming edition of Land Rover Enthusiast Magazine, so your eyes peeled.
When stowing the cable, I attach the hook through the high lift jack point and tension. Quite neat.
There is an access hole on the top surface of the bumper to allow for operation of the free spool lever. I think I will be enlarging this slightly in the future along with the slots that allow a view of the drum & cable.
I do have a front mounted camera system to aid in this department but that is still boxed after taking off from the D2.
Although I have the remote winch control plug on the grill, I seldom use this. I normally use a Lodar radio remote which in mounted in the engine bay.
That’s about it really. If you see the vehicle out & about & would like to know more or have a demo, don’t hesitate to come over & say hello.
LR3 Exterior
If your tailgate lock fails you hold the lock & unlock switch down in the cab for about 5 secs and the tailgate will release, you do need another person to open the tail gate at the same time thou. It does work
LR3 Exterior, LR3 MISC
Features:
* Durable steel construction for maximum protection
* Split pan design for optimum strength and airflo
* Superbly engineered, airbag compatible mounting system secures to chassis using high tensile bolts
* Five fold upswept & tapered wing design for optimum strength and approach angle
* Durable automotive grade urethane buffers
* Continuous uprights through the bumper section of the bar strengthens the outer frame
* Cover straps attached to the uprights ensure there are no exposed sharp edges
* Compatible with a range of Warn winch models
* Recessed indicators and running lights
* Accommodates factory fog lights where applicable
* Hi-Lift jacking points on winch bar
* Retains original tow points under chassis
* Provision for two CB aerials
* Driving light provision
* Lower protection panels supplied in kit
* Finished in a hard wearing powder coat with the option tocolour code
LR3 Exterior
To remove the plastic bumper cover:
Remove rear mudflaps
Remove some of the plastic clips underneath the wheel arch flares and gently pull away the flares from the rear
Undo plastic clip holding bumper end that was hidden by the flare.
Open tailgate and remove the taillight assembly
Pull out the four plasti clips along the top of the bumber that are hidden by the tailgate (you have to move the tailgate to the best postition for this)
Remove the two bolts from the top at either side and the four screw from underneath.
Pull away the bumper cover from the two sets of plastic clips at either side and pull the bumper cover off.
If you have reversing sensors, disconnect near the LHS taillight harness.
If you have reversing sensor, then you need to remove the trim on the top of the bumper to reveal the screws that hold the foam in place, that in turn holds the wiring in place.
The sensors clip out of their housings, there are three clips each. The housings can then by unclipped from the bumper.
It is very important that you mark them so they can go back in in the same order.
LR3 Exterior
The grill comes out dead easy.
4 clips along the top of the grill and 2 lower down.
Lights come out easy lift up tabs on either side of the lamps.
Levelling is automatic on air suspension cars
LR3 Exterior
Finished installing my new ARB winch bar and Warn 9.5 XP this weekend. What a project, I cannot begin to convey what an involved project this is. I have installed an ARB on my old D2, it is like comparing apples and oranges, the D3 install is orders of magnitude more difficult. If you don’t enjoy challenges, Don’t attempt this install, find a good shop and pay them. I found there is a design flaw for US trucks which required cutting on the absorber brackets.
I have posted photos of my truck with the ARB Winchbar installed. I also included photos of the left hand side impact absorber which must be modified for NA spec trucks. Regarding removal of the headlamp assembly, it requires removal of the whole bar assembly, this makes it much more difficult to wire up aftermarket driving lights. If you mount a winch, the control box makes it very hard to remove the center grill covering, it can be done, but it is very easy to scratch it. If you take this project on, think things through carefully, anything that you can wire up, route, etc., before you mount the bar makes it much easier.
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I too have the ARB bull Bar installed, but not the winch version. It looks good and I expect it to do the job. But….
Tell me how you go changing a headlight lamp globe.
I found out the the front grill still is easy to remove with the plastic clips, etc, but the Bull Bar does not allow the lamp housing to move forward sufficiently after unlocking the headlamp sliders to give you access to removing the rear lamp covers (circular) to get at the lamps.
I can j.u.s.t. get to the side clearance lamp cover with my hand, the others located further towards the centre of the housing are impossible to get to. So, it appears that if you want to change out a globe, you need to take off the Bull Bar!!!
I found this out when I installed LED lamps into the side clearance lamp positions.
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LR3 Exterior
i fitted a safari snorkle to mine on sunday
the a pillar mould pulls straight off, the same goes for the air intake grille
to remove the wheel arch you have to take the grille off (push the clips down), then remove the left headlight (pull up the black metal tags on either side of the head light, pull the head light forward and unclip the wiring). there is a screw that runs from behind the head light into the front of the wheel arch and you cant get at it with the head light in place, then pull the wheel arch off after you have removed the clips and screws underneath and remove the inner guard lining
then follow the fitting instructions
LR3 Exterior
As discussed previous Thule is not marketing Thule original roofrack (footpack) that fit Disco3 (in Europe). The ones they have on their european site is not compatible with Disco3. I phoned up the engeneers at Thule in Sweden and asked them why they only marketed Footpacks for the US market and not in Europe Shocked
He got a bit confused and couldnt give me another answer than this must be due to a deal with LR so LR can sell their LR branded kit(made by Thule).
However, he told me that Thule 4700 footpack + Thule 4710 adaptor kit would solve my problem, so I went to the Thule dealer and got the parts, problem solved.
If you want a Thule system order the following parts:
-Thule 4700 Footpack
-Thule 4710 Adaptor kit
-Thule 769 (square profile bars) or 869 (aero profile) 135 cm bars
LR3 Exterior
