Just push these clippy things down, and pull…………
It is quite fiddley though…..
Not an easy operation - need two very thin palete knives. I ended up doing a little resculpting of the catches as I was using a couple of steak knives.
Unfortunately, the gap revealed has a few cable bumps and the like, so that what appears to take cheapo mcCheapo player leaves it projecting 6 inches. Would probably take a standard car hi-fi unit (1 DIN?),
LR3 Interior
To get at the dash is quite simple, the surround around the radio that has the two vents in is all one piece, grab it at the bottom two corners and pull, it is held in with clips. don’t be afraid, you need to pull hard ! once this is out you can route wires down the side to the bottom then under the center console and bobs your uncle !
Easiest way to get a perminent 12v is to run a wire from the battery, put a fuse as close to the battery as you can. run the wire across the bulkhead to the drivers side and through the gromet in the aux battery box, from there you can get to the area behind the radio then just follow your other wires. oh yes you will need to get the panel under the stering wheel off, catch it at the top and pull out, it sort of hinges from the bottom.
to mount the screen you will need to cut a oblong hole in the back lefthand side of the dash hole to get the screen cable down with your others. the screen is supplied with a right angle bracket, sit it in the space and bend it back a bit to match the angle of the dash, screw it down, the screen slides down on top of it and is held by a friction fit to the sides of the hole.
you should run the switched power for the pc from the blue and white wire coming from the radio, this is the cars power on unlock bus, the pc will then boot as soon as you press the unlock button on the key. by the time you in, door closed, seat belt, started you pc is ready for use.
LR3 Electrical, LR3 Interior
I’ve had my centre console out a couple of times, and that of my buddy Chris Tyler. Do a search on his posts, I think he posted pictures of it all out.
Its a lot easier to get the ashtray panel out if you previously remove the hazard button panel, the radio and the environment control panel.
The ashtray itself is held in by two clips which go in opposite directions, hence its very difficult to get it out. But removing the above items helps.
To remove the centre console (back to the box) first remove the rubber coin tray, then the screw holding the parking brake and the one under the sunglass holder. Unplug and remove the parking brake.
Then grasp the edges of the upper part of the centre console and pull up!
As usual there are a few clips, but it will come up in the end, held only by the wiring plugs for the terrain control and the gear knob. To completely remove the console you have to remove the gear knob (pull down the lower cover under the knob then prise the clips outward while pulling knob up) and unclip the cables.
Careful of the cupholder inners, they sometimes become unattached, as there is a clip in their base. But they can be reattached to the centre console when its out and pressed back into place.
I did this yesterday to install my amateur radio rig. Made a new panel to replace the ashtray panel. Here’s a blurry photo:
LR3 Interior
Some pics of the dash and center console trim removed
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=10549
LR3 Interior
Ignition on ….belt clip in and out of locking slot 9 times within 1 minute = no noises
A very good safety device, but the beeping is so annoying (eg when moving a trailer around & need to take safety belt off).
But it can be disabled! Wink the same system as applies to Fords works - simply turn ignition on then rapidly (within 1 min) put the safety belt in & out of the clip 9 times! On the 9th time the safety belt light will stay on for a while & then after that you still get the safety belt light but not the “beep” One caution… I don’t yet know how to re-enable the “beep” Shocked
LR3 Interior
If you have factory bluetooth, you have the wiring for the phone in your center console. The cradle isn’t provided, because there are different cradles for different phones. Your dealer can give you a list of approved phones, and order the correct cradle for you. A cradle is usually in the $100-$150 range. Most (if not all) cradle phones are Nokia. The nice thing is the cradle also charges your phone, and most importantly, uses the vehicle’s antenna to greatly improve your signal. In the Range Rover, the cradle also allows you to text message, see missed calls, signal strength, call length, call history, etc…
The cradle phones are also bluetooth, so you can still take your phone with you & leave it in your pocket & have the same feature level you have now.
If you don’t want to go the cradle phone route, you can manually add phone numbers and voice tags for those numbers in the LR3. This is easiest to do through the Settings section on your NAV. It’s under “voice add name.” Type in the phone number, then follow the voice prompts. Then, to dial, you say, “Phone, dial name.” LR3: “Name Please.” You: “Yacht club.” LR3: ” Yacht Club? Yes or No” You: “Yes.” LR3: “Dialing”
Random dinging can happen for a couple of reasons. Sometimes it will ding when you are in access mode and you go really fast before it’s had a chance to go to normal drive height (even though you didn’t lock it). You might have also accidentally set your speed alarm, which will ding once when you reach a certain pre-set speed. I believe it also dings when your fuel light comes on. Those would be the most common reasons I could think of, but I’m sure there are others.
LR3 Interior
