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LR3 Dual Battery wiring

March 5th, 2008

For dual battery isolation I used a Painless Wiring 50105 Relay that can be purchased from Summit Racing. The relay is controlled by the ignition switch and a separate override switch.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF%2D50105&N=700+4294845465+115&autoview=sku

To make it easier you could also use this dual battery switch that is prewired for you.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9041.cfm

If you don’t care about isolation, just wire the two batteries in parallel.

You will need these bolts from Land Rover RO-XYG500061 & RO-XYG500051 to hold down the battery along with a fabricated hold down bar.

That is about it.

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Trailer Brake Controller

July 15th, 2007

There IS a brake controller connection under the dash.

There is a grey plug attached to the upper portion or the brake pedal.

This adapter is what I used With that, the factory 7 pin wiring harness and any brake controller, you are set to tow a trailer with brakes.

No wiring on your own!!!

LR3 Electrical

OBDII Codes

July 12th, 2007

I found these OBDII code for Disco I’s (up to 1998’s) on another forum, posted by a factory technican. Repost here for future reference.
___________________________________________________________

Trouble Code Chart
DTC
Fault Description
P0101
Mass Air Flow Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0102
Mass Air Flow Sensor Low out of Range Fault
P0103
Mass Air Flow Sensor High out of Range Fault
P0111
Air Temperature Signal Error Fault
P0112
Air Temperature Low out of Range Fault
P0113
Air Temperature High out of Range Fault
P0116
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Falling Temp Fault
P0117
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Low out of Range Fault
P0118
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High out of Range Fault
P0121
Throttle Position Sensor Output Signal Error Fault
P0122
Throttle Position Sensor Low out of Range Fault
P0123
Throttle Position Sensor High out of Range Fault
P0125
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Warm Up Fault
P0130
Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *codes* A U
P0131
Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *codes* A U
P0132
Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *codes* A U
P0133
Oxygen Sensor Slow response *codes* A U
P0136
Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *codes* A D
P0137
Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *codes* A D
P0138
Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *codes* A D
P0139
Oxygen Sensor Slow response *codes* A D
P0150
Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *codes* B U
P0151
Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *codes* BU
P0152
Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *codes* BU
P0153
Oxygen Sensor Slow response *codes* B U
P0156
Oxygen Sensor Cycle Fault *codes* B D
P0157
Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage *codes* BD
P0158
Oxygen Sensor High Voltage *codes* BD
P0159
Oxygen Sensor Slow response *codes* B D
P0171
Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Bank A
P0172
Oxygen Sensor System Too Rich Fault Bank A
P0174
Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Bank B
P0175
Oxygen Sensor System Too Rich Fault Bank B
P0181
Fuel Temperature Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0182
Fuel Temperature Sensor Low out of Range Fault
P0183
Fuel Temperature Sensor High out of Range Fault
P0201
Injector 1 Circuit Fault
P0202
Injector 2 Circuit Fault
P0203
Injector 3 Circuit Fault
P0204
Injector 4 Circuit Fault
P0205
Injector 5 Circuit Fault
P0206
Injector 6 Circuit Fault
P0207
Injector 7 Circuit Fault
P0208
Injector 8 Circuit Fault
P0300
Misfire on Multiple Cylinder
P0301
Misfire on Cylinder 1
P0302
Misfire on Cylinder 2
P0303
Misfire on Cylinder 3
P0304
Misfire on Cylinder 4
P0305
Misfire on Cylinder 5
P0306
Misfire on Cylinder 6
P0307
Misfire on Cylinder 7
P0308
Misfire on Cylinder 8
P0326
Continuous Knock Fault Bank A
P0327
Background Noise Low Fault Bank A
P0328
Background Noise High Fault Bank A
P0331
Continuous Knock Fault Bank B
P0332
Background Noise Low Fault Bank B
P0333
Background Noise High Fault Bank B
P0335
Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0336
Crankshaft Position Sensor Out of Range Fault
P0340
Camshaft Position Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0420
Catalyst Efficiency Low Fault Bank A
P0430
Catalyst Efficiency Low Fault Bank B
P0441
Evap. Purge Valve Incorrect Flow Fault
P0442
Evap System Small Leak Detected Fault
P0443
Evap. Purge Valve Open or Short Circuit Fault
P0451
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0452
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
P0453
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P0461
Fuel Tank Level Measurement Not Valid Fault
P0500
Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Error Fault
P0506
Idle Speed Control Engine Speed Low Fault
P0507
Idle Speed Control Engine Speed High Fault
P0560
Battery Voltage Below minimum Fault
P0562
Measurement Circuit OK Battery Voltage Low Fault
P0563
Battery Voltage Above Maximum Fault
P0605
ECM Self Test Fault
P1130
Oxygen Sensor Fuel Trim at Limit *codes* A U
P1131
Oxygen Sensor Lean *codes* A U
P1132
Oxygen Sensor Rich *codes* A U
P1137
Oxygen Sensor Lean *codes* A D
P1138
Oxygen Sensor Rich *codes* A D
P1150
Oxygen Sensor Fuel Trim at Limit *codes* B U
P1151
Oxygen Sensor Lean *codes* B U
P1152
Oxygen Sensor Rich *codes* B U
P1157
Oxygen Sensor Lean *codes* B D
P1158
Oxygen Sensor Rich *codes* B D
P1171
Oxygen Sensor System too Lean Fault Banks A & B
P1172
Oxygen Sensor System too Rich Fault Banks A & B
P1176
Maximum Positive FMFR Correction Fault
P1177
Maximum Negative FMFR Correction Fault
P1178
Maximum Positive AMFR Correction Fault
P1179
Maximum Negative AMFR Correction Fault
P1185
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Upstream
P1186
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Upstream
P1187
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Upstream
P1188
Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Upstream
P1189
Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Upstream
P1190
Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 2 Low Resistance Upstream
P1191
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P1192
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Short Downstream
P1193
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P1194
Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Downstream
P1195
Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Downstream
P1196
Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 2 Low Resistance Downstream
P1199
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Fault
P1201
Injector 1 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1202
Injector 2 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1203
Injector 3 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1204
Injector 4 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1205
Injector 5 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1206
Injector 6 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1207
Injector 7 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1208
Injector 8 Open Circuit or Ground Short Fault
P1313
Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A
P1314
Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B
P1315
Misfire Persistent Fault
P1316
Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
P1317
ABS Rough Road Line Low Fault
P1318
ABS Rough Road Line High Fault
P1361
No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 1
P1362
No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 2
P1363
No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 3
P1364
No Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 4
P1371
Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 1
P1372
Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 2
P1373
Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 3
P1374
Early Ignition Coil Activation Fault Coil 4
P1440
Evap System Purge Valve Stuck Open Fault
P1441
Evap System Purge Valve Flow 1 Fault
P1442
Evap System Purge Valve Blocked Fault
P1447
Evap System Purge Valve Open or Short Circuit Fault
P1448
Evap System Purge Valve Flow 2 Fault
P1508
Idle Speed Control Open Circuit Fault
P1509
Idle Speed Control Short Circuit Fault
P1514
Neutral Drive Load Fault
P1516
Neutral Drive Gear Change Fault
P1517
Neutral Drive Cranking Fault
P1607
Malfunction Indicator Lamp Short Circuit Fault
P1608
Malfunction Indicator Lamp Open Circuit Fault
P1620
Reprogramming Code Learn Fault
P1621
Serial Data Link Dead Fault
P1622
Repeated Wrong ECM Security Code Fault
P1623
ECM Security Code Fault
P1621
Serial Data Link Dead Fault
P1622
Repeated Wrong ECM Security Code Fault
P1623
ECM Security Code Fault
P1701
Transfer Box Line Fault
P1703
Transfer Box Line Open Circuit Fault
P1708
Transfer Box Line Short Circuit Fault
P1775
Gearbox Fault
P1776
Gearbox Ignition Retard Request Timeout Fault
P1777
Gearbox Ignition Retard Request Line Fault

All Rovers, LR3 Electrical

Optima Battery Charging

June 23rd, 2007

Optimas in particular HATE being charged from zero with anything lower then 10.5 amps. What the engineer told me was that crystals form in the cells when charged for too long at 2.5 amps. He said that battery is designed to discharge and be recharged by a standard automatic charger set to begin its charge at 10.5 amps and work its way down to 2.5 amps until its full, and finally will shut off or float the battery until you unplug it.

All Rovers, D90 Electrical, LR3 Electrical

Aux Input wiring

February 23rd, 2007

Ok thanks for all that gave me a little help on this one… I just got done spending 15 freezing minutes in the cold kneeling on a concrete garage floor tapping a 3.5 stereo lead connector to 3 unused AUX wires that gave me the exact setup i have been searching night and day for…. If you have the base LR3 and want to hook up the AUX, its really super easy and works perfect, crisp loud noise, all working through the AUX button on the cd player. Below is the directions i found and used and there is also a link to pictures of the actual wires and spot ( although its a UK vehic and the images are a little backwards). If you ever need help doing this email me at kevinm@allodialdesign.com.. i went a little nuts after realizing that i didnt have the stock aux input since my dealer told me i did and only after i drove it off the lot did i realize i didnt. Hope this helps.

Pictures link ( http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/dis…album=267&pos=2 )
Below is the directions i used..

I know this question has been asked on a regular basis so I thought I would share the easy way to do it. I completed the job today in under 40 minutes with a pair of side cutters and a soldering iron. Here’s how…

1. Remove the passenger side front kickpanel trim (unscrew the bonnet release handle first then pull firmly toward the centre console).

2. Locate the grey multiplug which is the middle of the three. (NOTE on mine the wires where actually going in the the back 3rd connector.. which was green)

3. Unplug the 2 halves of the connector and carefully remove the blue, red and black wires from the block (they are held in with clips so a small flat blade screwdriver should do the trick).

Note: These wires terminate here and are only used if the LR DVD system is fitted so you won’t cause any problem by disconnecting them.

4. Using a standard commercially available 3.5mm stereo extension lead (Maplins etc) simply solder the lead into the red blue and black wires. Red and blue are left and right channel and black is ground/screen.

5. Route the cable to your chosen location (mine runs to the front of the centre console near the 12v lighter plug etc but you could run it to the centre console stowage box or anywhere conveniant)

6. Re-fit the trim plate, plug in the ipod or other aux audio source, enjoy

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Rear Aux Power Routing

January 7th, 2007

This post might be too late (I have been outback for a month). I ran a large cable from a circuit breaker near the aux battery to the rear right side luggage area. The cable was a ’starter’ size cable.

The route/method was as follows.
If you remove the inner plastic guard for the right front wheel you will see a large grommet that has a spare blind nipple on it. You can trim this nipple to size and pass your cable from the engine bay to he underside of the car through it.

I used flexible conduit to contain the cable under the car and routed it with the existing harnesses to the rear of the vehicle. I also picked up existing mounting points for the flexible conduit.

At the rear I removed one of the body grommets and replaced it with a suitable sized glind (cross between a grommet and a cable clamp). The cable passed through this glind providing a water/dust tight seal and a mechanical clamp for the cable. I have a fuse box mounted in the rear, running an inverter (charging cameras etc), refrigerator, and camp lighting. The fuse box is mounted to a storage system (draws/shelves etc) in the rear luggage space.

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Washer Fuse

January 7th, 2007

Dealers have been instructed to upgrade the washer jet fuse (#11) to 15A. Get yours done!

Fuse 11, 10amp red, bugger to get at the spare at the bottom though. The fuse box is behind the glove box. You need to empty it first ( I didn’t and the lot dropped on the muddy floor .. dohh) With both hands, feel each side of the open glove box for the supporting struts, and give them a pinch to release them. The glove box will now drop revealing the fuse panel bolted to the inards inside. If you are in a rush prob better to buy some spares in a box….

DO you squeeze the box itself or the little arc shaped guides? If its the guides do you squeeze them inwards, towards the centre of the glovebox, or do you “pinch” them to make them narrower?

All fingers behind each one, and thumb on top, and gently squeeze untill you feel it un-latch

Same fuse for front and back washers

—————-

Discovery 3/LR3 - Windscreen Washer Bottle Frozen/Washers Inoperative 28th March 2006

Bit late but there ya go!
“A customer may report a concern that the windscreen washers are inoperative following freezing temperatures.

Cause: If the customer has diluted the washer fluid solution strength or has used a non-recommended washer solution, the washer fluid may freeze. Operating the washers while the bottle is frozen may cause the circuit fuse to blow.
Action: Should a customer express concern regarding the above, refer to the Service Procedure detailed in this bulletin.”

“If customers use non-recommended or low washer fluid additive strengths, increasing the rated value of the washer circuit fuse (Fuse 11) in the passenger compartment fusebox (central junction box) from 10Amp to 15Amp will prevent recurrence of this problem, allowing the motor to stall without blowing the fuse.”

————

Classification
Electrical
Problem
The front and rear windscreen washers fail to operate. Fuse 11 has blown.
Affected vehicles
All, and Range Rover Sport
Reported
31st December 2005 by Coffeecup in post 35405
Reported Cases
Several
Occurs
When washers operated in cold weather, possibly related to frozen washer fluid overloading the pump(s)
Submitted to dealer network
Yes
Dealer Response
See fix/solution
Submitted to LR Customer Services
?
LR CS Response Reported
None
Fix/Solution
Replace Fuse 11 (10A Mini Fuse).

Update 7th Jan 2006 (steveho, post 35405): Official fix is to replace the 10A fuse with a 15A one - technical service bulletin to to be issued to dealers soon.
Other Comments
None

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Touchscreen Install

January 1st, 2007

To get at the dash is quite simple, the surround around the radio that has the two vents in is all one piece, grab it at the bottom two corners and pull, it is held in with clips. don’t be afraid, you need to pull hard ! once this is out you can route wires down the side to the bottom then under the center console and bobs your uncle !
Easiest way to get a perminent 12v is to run a wire from the battery, put a fuse as close to the battery as you can. run the wire across the bulkhead to the drivers side and through the gromet in the aux battery box, from there you can get to the area behind the radio then just follow your other wires. oh yes you will need to get the panel under the stering wheel off, catch it at the top and pull out, it sort of hinges from the bottom.

to mount the screen you will need to cut a oblong hole in the back lefthand side of the dash hole to get the screen cable down with your others. the screen is supplied with a right angle bracket, sit it in the space and bend it back a bit to match the angle of the dash, screw it down, the screen slides down on top of it and is held by a friction fit to the sides of the hole.

you should run the switched power for the pc from the blue and white wire coming from the radio, this is the cars power on unlock bus, the pc will then boot as soon as you press the unlock button on the key. by the time you in, door closed, seat belt, started you pc is ready for use.

LR3 Electrical, LR3 Interior

LR3 Dual Battery Isolator

January 1st, 2007

It’s a Rotronics system supplied/fitted by the local Opposite Lock franchise.I don’t recall the actual fitting charge but it involved more than a day’s work for their electrician so I imagine it would have been around $300-$500.For some reason the Rotronics comes with a maze of boxes and wires so I thought it was definately not DIY– for me anyway!

——–

drivesafe (a forum member here and at www.aulro.com.au) is developimg a system with approval from LR. It seems the D3 charging system is ’smart’ and requires a new type of controller otherwise there may be problems with the car.

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Dual Battery Info

January 1st, 2007

Both the D3 and the Range Rover Sports have an advanced battery charge and power usage monitoring system.

This system has so many interconnected operations and setting up the wrong Dual Battery system can result in system responses that at the time may seem like device failures but are actually self protection operations.

To give you an idea of what can happen, if you have the wrong set up and try to recharge the wrong type of battery you may have something as simple as the sound system turning off or as major as the air suspension compressor being shut down.

Also as the two vehicles run Calcium/Lead Calcium batteries, the charging system is optimised to charge these types of batteries and can supply charge voltages of between 13.5 volts and 15.7 volts. This 15.7 volts is way too high for many other types of batteries and will result in the shortening of the auxiliary battery’s operating life.

Hi Watteau, the very reason I have been able to get at this information is because LRA asked us if we could modify one of our products to meet their requirements for the D3 and RRS.

This we have done and the device was tested by LRA and based on the info gained was submitted to LR in Britain.

At this time I have received verbal approval from LR and LRA for the new unit to be used on D3s and RRSs and while we are waiting for written conformation, we are in the midst of putting together a full kit including the Dual Battery Charge controller, all cables, battery securing bracket and all hardware required to fit a Dual Battery set up with a minimum of effort.

We will not be supplying the battery but we are looking into what type of battery would best suit the purpose.

So if you can wait a short time we should be able to help you.

By the way, the original post was not intended to drum up business, it was purely intended as a heads up on what you should look out for.

Company Site

Hi folks, we have been somewhat busy over the last few months but I am now making this a full time priority.

The biggest advantage we have is that we were already working on an advanced Dual battery system before the D3 request came from LRA so a lot of development and testing time has already been carried out.

I would be interested in hearing form you on how you intend to use your dual battery systems and how you would like it set up in your vehicles and any optional operations you might think could be an improvement over existing systems.

To give you some idea of what we are working on and please note this may all change by the time it goes into production.

The unit being designed for the D3 and RRS will be a Plug-and-Play set up. There will be no holes to drill for wiring or screw mounts. We plan to use the existing available mounts in these vehicles and you will simply secure the new cables to the existing battery and to the new battery. The installation should be very simple and very quick.

Basic operation will be a Cut-Out voltage which isolates the two( 3 ) batteries. A Cut-In voltage and both an Over-Voltage and Over-Current Shut-Down designed to protect both batteries and the vehicle’s electrics.

One of the ideas we are working on is a second output from the unit that will be able to be used to either charge a third battery and / or power for accessories.

This second output will allow the second and third batteries to remain connected after the main battery ( and the vehicles electrics ) are isolated by the Cut-Out voltage. Once the second output voltage drops to a lower level then the third battery ( or accessories ) will then be isolated, protecting the second battery from being over discharged.

We are also planning on having a dual colour LED indicator that can be mounted in a number of places and indicate what state the system is operating at, which will also indicate if either the cranking and / or the auxiliary batteries are in need of charging.

Last but not least, almost all automotive batteries require a minimum voltage of 13.8 volts to be able to fully charge them and should not be allowed to have a continuos charge voltage higher than 14.7 as this will damage the battery. As Penguin posted, you are not going to get a high voltage reading at idle, Once the initial start charge is replaced, most vehicles will have an operating voltage of 14 to 14.3 volts

One of the exceptions to this is the Calcium/ Lead calcium battery, as used in late model D2s, all D3s and RRSs.

In given conditions, these batteries can be charged from 13.5 volts to 15.7 volts without being damaged.

The problem is that the D3 and RRS electric’s are set up to work with calcium batteries and by putting any other form of battery in this system, can cause a “ Conflict of Interest “ situation. The main intention of our unit is to isolate the auxiliary battery(s) when there is likely to be a “ Conflict of Interest “ situation and therefore protect both the batteries and the vehicle.

The device that we currently have that LR OKed for use, the SC40-LR is available but as posted earlier, this device will protect the vehicle and vehicle’s battery but will not protect the new battery.

The SC40-LR will most likely work in 95% of applications but will not protect the auxiliary battery if continuos high voltage charging occurs.

To our knowledge, there is nothing on the market that can cater for the D3 charging system, approved or otherwise.

We will be installing the first production prototype in the next week or so and then we will have so idea of when it will be available.

Sorry it’s taking so long but we decided to develop a complete system requirement device rather than just the standard dual battery set up.

Developing the full system device was decided after a large number of requests were made for our device to be able to be used for different types of set up situations.

The new unit will virtually be two devises in one and be able to be simply programmed by the installer ( or owner ) to operate in a number ways to meet different user requirements.

It will not only protect the D3’s cranking battery from being discharged but it will also protect the auxiliary battery from over charging, high currents, low discharging and can be set up to allow a third battery to be charged and the device can be set up to operate the two auxiliary batteries in a number of configurations, depending on customer requirements.

Again, sorry for the delay but it should be ready soon.

Hi folks, I’ve been carrying out tests on my D3 to aid in the development of our new dual battery charge controllers for the D3s and RRSs and a major part of our R & D is based on info supplied to us by LRA, which included info about symptoms relating to incompatibility problems that these vehicles are suffering from when dual battery systems are fitted.

This is my opinion and only based on these tests we have have been conducting, but I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that batteries capable of rapid high current charging may very well be overloading the charge capacity of the D3 and RRS.

In test I have done, and I will have to get them confirmed by LRA, the D3 needs 20 to 30 amps just to maintain the vehicles electrical needs at idle and with the headlights on and in high beam, the current requirements regularly exceed 50 amps.

If you then have a rapid high current charging battery in a low state of charge, throw in a few driving lights, add the fact that the D3 and RRS can produce well over 15 volts and you can see how the system can be very easily and quickly be overloaded.

As you can imagine, this is all making our job a little harder but the end product should be worth all the work.

Hi bohnhead, it would, except that Calcium / Lead Calcium batteries, if used as auxiliary batteries, will have a very short operating life as they do NOT like being continually deep discharged and was one of the main reasons LRA approached us and asked us to come up with a system that would protect the vehicle’s battery.

If only you could use the Calcium / Lead Calcium batteries as an auxiliary battery then our work would not be needed, but as post above, we have to cater for batteries that can be deep cycled and be safely used in the D3 and RRS.

Cheers.

Just a side note. One of the problems LRA pointed out to us is that down the road, when the vehicle’s battery eventually needs to be replaced, LRA envision seeing a lot of people have problems when they DON’T replace the vehicle battery with another Calcium / Lead Calcium battery.

LR3 Electrical

Lr3 Aux Power to rear

January 1st, 2007

Power comes from the Optima Yellow Top under the bonnet. I ran a battery/starter size cable to the rear of the vehicle to a separate fuse box mounted in the right hand wing of the Black Widow draws. From that feed I power the HF with a 40A breaker (no fuse, just breaker). There is another breaker (120A) at the Yellow Top taking care of the large cable run down to the rear.

I considered running a return cable (-ve) but measured the body resistance between the front (near the second battery) and rear (behind the right tail light) earth points and found much less than 0.1 Ohm - low enough to not worry about.

Getting power to the rear was easier than expected. Behind the right front wheel plastic guard there is a big grommet with a blind nipple you can trim to size. I ran a flexible conduit down the chassis rail with the vehicle harness. To get the power inside at the back there are a number of grommets in the rear right quarter panel (aft of the rear wheel). I found that I could buy glinds (cross between a grommet and a cable clamp) that had a matching outside diameter to the vehicle and inside diameter to my cable.

LR3 Electrical

LR3 Aux battery

December 26th, 2006

55ah Optima Yellow Top I put in - that’s max for the space btw,

I fitted a Redarc Dual Battery controller/Isolator I think they are available on Ebay, This controller only charges the Aux battery after it has charged your main battery 1st It also isolates itself from the main battery when it has dropped below a certain voltage. Smile

I put a Century 35L battery (I had a deep cycle battery from previous Disco 2 but it wouldnt fit) in the space next to the ABS and 2 long (6mm ?) bolts with a home made clamp on one side at the bottom of the battery, the battery has a flange on each side of the battery the other flange goes under a ledge already in the car. It appears it has been made to take an extra battery. I also installed a couple of circuit breakers.

I only use mine to run a Waeco fridge /freezer in the car. The wiring is only heavy enough to run appliances not to start the car .The circuit breakers are for in case I have a flat main battery so the starter doesnt draw from the Aux battery. I imagine if I couldnt start the car with the main battery I could gain assistance using jumper leads from the Aux Bat.

The bolt part numbers are RO-XYG500061 & RO-XYG500051, one is longer than the other. My dealer found the part number for the strap accross the top, but it was a UK order (4-6 weeks) and if it is designed like the one on the main battery it is narrow at the top with a step down (I wanted to fit the largest battery I could). As a result I decided not to order the original strap.

I made my own strap out of mild steel (20mm*3mm) and cold shaped it. All you really need to do this is a heavy vice, a large hammer, some measuring tools, a drill, and files. It took about half an hour.

I installed a Yellow Top R34. It is an expensive deep cycle battery, but it is also better specified than most. It has the highest capacity (55Ah @ 20Hr) from all the deep cycle units I looked at. It is also capable of high current/high voltage fast charging. This means a quicker recovery and, if you check on this forum, you will discover that the Disco3 charge system has the potential to reach voltages around 15.5V

I used Drivesafe’s isolator (search for Drivesafe posts on this forum), because it is allegedly the only unit that does not effect the LR warranty. (I was unable to prove this via any documentary evidence). It is also lower cost (<50% of anything else), and it is arguably smarter.

OK, I have fitted the Aux Battery, plus the isolater and wired it in. Had to do a bit of reshaping on the battery strap to suit the 55ah Optima Yellow Top I put in - that’s max for the space btw, and now I’m ready to run the power back in to the car. I also fitted a little battery monitor - pics when I get back from china.

I can see (i think) the little grommett down past the brake unit that has been suggested as the entry point. My destination is the cargo area drivers side panel where I intend to fit a dual Cigarettte lighter style adapter for Fridge and fluro light.

Has anyone rung wires that far and if so, what’s the best course? I was thinking along the door sills, but would appreciate advice.
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The older I get, the better I was.

This post might be too late (I have been outback for a month). I ran a large cable from a circuit breaker near the aux battery to the rear right side luggage area. The cable was a ’starter’ size cable.

The route/method was as follows.
If you remove the inner plastic guard for the right front wheel you will see a large grommet that has a spare blind nipple on it. You can trim this nipple to size and pass your cable from the engine bay to he underside of the car through it.

I used flexible conduit to contain the cable under the car and routed it with the existing harnesses to the rear of the vehicle. I also picked up existing mounting points for the flexible conduit.

At the rear I removed one of the body grommets and replaced it with a suitable sized glind (cross between a grommet and a cable clamp). The cable passed through this glind providing a water/dust tight seal and a mechanical clamp for the cable. I have a fuse box mounted in the rear, running an inverter (charging cameras etc), refrigerator, and camp lighting. The fuse box is mounted to a storage system (draws/shelves etc) in the rear luggage space.

Hope this helps

LR3 Electrical

LR3 12V power tap

December 26th, 2006

f you’ve got the HSE as your profile says, there is a permanent feed to the seat movement relay under the passenger seat (mounted on the front seat bracket behind the plastic trim) although i’d be tempted to strip back the trailer loom and solder a tap-off wire to the permanent +ve there…
not a quick job but worth doing IMO

LR3 Electrical