For mounting the liftgate, I drilled the rear of the top to attach the series liftgate hinges and used button head hex bolts for a smoother, rivet-like appearance. I also removed the rear washer jet and plugged it using another identical bolt. Two 30-pound gas struts were required to support the lift gate (I didnt want to use the original series prop-rods) and the brackets are stainless ones which seemed the proper shape. All the gas-strut stuff was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Since I had a used, imperfect headliner, I didnt feel bad cutting it to accomodate the hinges.
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Here are the pictures you requested. I’ll email a larger format to you also. just thought I’d post here in case anyone is also interested.
The gate is locked shut by a flange at the bottom of the gate that tucks behind the tailgate when closed. Because of this the T-handle is not necessary. The hole in the gate for the locking T-handle is covered by a LR badge that is stuck on by glue / tape. I think you can get them at R.N.
More pictures here.
The brackets are stainless stuff from McMaster.
One thing that worked out was that the triangular shape of the lower brackets made a perfect surface for the locking rods to grip. When the gate is closed, you turn the handle and the pegs extend out and engage the angled side. It worked out to be just right to squeeze the seal and hold the gate in the right position when closed. The seal is compressed enough that nothing rattles.
More pictures here.
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Randy- are you using the lift gate in normal series configuration? i.e where a drop-down tailgate closes first and then the lift gate closes second? Also, what came on your lift gate? Was it stripped? The stock set up is a strip that rivets to the outside bottom edge, and a seal retained by a metal strip that rivets to the inside bottom edge of the lift gate.
If you want the stock series parts you can have them cheap (I’ll have to have my wife hunt around for them, they’re back at home). I couldnt use them since the NAS tailgate must be closed after the lift gate because of the tire carrier and brake light bar. I bought a piece of LR weatherstripping that looked like it would work, I’d have to check the part number if you wanted that.
I also have the series prop rods you were asking George about if you want them so you dont have to use gas struts. I looked at both options and went with the gas struts - much easier.
The gas struts are 2x 9416K2 in the 30lb strength
I used 4x 9416K86 M6 nylon ball socket fittings
2x 9512K12 304 stainless ball brackets
and 1x each (left and right) 9512K16 and 9512K17
Note that each of the parts are available in a variety of materials. You can even get 100% marine grade stainless gas struts for 75 bucks each. I went the economical route except for the brackets which are much nicer in stainless. The nylon ball joint sockets cost like 1/8 of the stainless and I figure will resist rust at least as well
I used a 332564 for the seal. It think its a series rear door seal of some kind. Got it from George.
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My seal is simple and effective - it is made with a thin metal retainer - a strip of 1/2″ wide 1/8″ thick annodized aluminum - from the hardware store and a piece of garage door bottom seal -(dense foam strip with abrasion resistance) I chose that seal because it is chemically engineered to withstand UV radiation. Mine has worked quite well over the past few years. I will post some picks of it for you this evening. It is very simple to attach - I used the series of holes that are already in bottom of the lift gate to attachethe unit with small SS machine screws.
More pictures here.
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The hinge (large u shaped thingy) is the same part POE to 1960s Series truck.
The bracket that bolts to the roof on a POE is different than a Series rig, but both will work. A little shaping and the Series Rover one will rivet right in, or you can make a simple corss bolt bracket just like the POE unit.
The set up I used was a 1960s Series liftgate with 1960s hardware and some gas struts from NAPA.
Then added a small steel piece at the bottom of the liftegate to have a seal surtface between the tailgate and the liftagte.
I made the glass bigger though to match the side galss and give a better rear view.
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I did a very similar thing a while back. Got the parts from Canada off a parts series truck… the hinge brackets needed a little choppling to make fit properly but it was really easy.. then as mike said rivit in and you have a liftgate.
One thing that was tricky was getting the spacing for the seal right. But it was not that big of a deal, just took some planning… good luck!!
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I got the brackets from Rovers North…I’m attaching two pix to show the cuts I decided to make on the brackets…once cut like this and excess metal bent out of the way (too lazy to cut and trim!) they slide right in…there is a right and left to the brackets…I bolted the hinges to the rear door first then hung the door on the lip of the upper edge of the opening and made sure it was centered…then I marked where the hinges lined up left and right…then I positioned the brackets, marked the rivet holes…drilled and riveted in place…the pins for the brackets (must be ordered as they don’t come with the brackets are weird…one of them was too big so dry test em first…also see 3rd pic of completed do-it-yourself POE liftgated soft top to hard top conversion…man it was cold without that liftgate…I really prefer the liftgate idea to a door because you can drive with lumber sticking out the back with the liftgate open…also great rain shield while standing out in weather.
More pictures here.
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I’m not sure how the liftgate is configured, but the f-glass lift gate has a flange along its bottom edge that prevents the liftgate from opening when the tailgate is closed. A piece of weatherstripping attaches to this flange and presses against the top of the inside face of the tailgate creating a seal. It would seem a simple matter to take an L-shaped piece of aluminum and screw it to the bottom of the POE liftgate to replicate this flange, then attach a piece of weather stripping to the flange and be all set up.
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In the POE configuration, you don’t use all the Series locks and handles etc (also, I can’t remember how the Series liftgate used to work on my old Series IIa)…I removed all that stuff and am mounting a 3″ metal strip on the inside bottom edge of the liftgate which will have a piece of the weather seal (that goes around the rear opening) on it…the tailgate will lock and keep the liftgate closed. All I have to do now is figure out how to mount two gas struts and where to source the struts and their mounting brackets…any suggestions are welcome.
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dimensions on Center Line of mounting bolts:
Open - 21 - 3/4″
Closed - 18”
D90 Chassis, D90 Exterior, D90 Misc
