MyRovers.com

I took my two bolt feet and mounted them to a set of Mud Uk seat rails made for the later single bolt seats. I used the inner set of holes on the console side and the outer set of holes on the door side and this moved the seat inwards towards the console a little more than an inch. It made the truck much more comfortable. For the seat box there are a pair of captive nut’s in a bracket held in place with a rivet. I drilled out the rivet and used this hole for bolting down the Mud Uk rails. I bought plastic plugs @ the local hardware store and pluged the other old holes.

D90 Interior

For future reference to anyone needing to know how to remove the (automatic trans) shifter handle on a 97 D-90.

1- The top plate which is textured can be popped out using a tiny screwdriver (note: once you clean the area arround same one side will have a bit more of a gap than the others)

2- Inside there is a retaining clip. Lift the clip/bushing up with needlenose pliers and rotate 1/2 turn. This will allow you to remove the clip (slide over). Remove clip and then lift the bushing out (under the clip) which holds the button. You can now slide the button out (may as well clean it)

3- Note there is a small spring on the inside right (just FYI to avoid loss) .

Then there is a 19mm nut (will require deepwell)

Of course then she pulls right up.

D90 Interior, Discovery 1

Just as an FYI for those ordering from Exmoor:

They only have the blue(ish) denim fabric. So if you have a 97 NAS 90 that will match quite nicely. It is not an exact match, but really close. The rear flap is black and it has stitching instead of the emossed pattern, but its a good cheaper alternative to the factory parts that are hard to get.

If you have a 94-95 soft top they do not offer the darker denim color (grayish).

Also the 97 NAS SW had denim with grey sides and the 97 NAS ST had denim with black sides.

Just trying to save someone what happened to us the first time we ordered from Exmoor.
Don’t order thinking it will be an exact match.

Image attached of a factory 94-95 ST seat cover and the Exmoor 97 style.

Best thing to do would be to get some different color for all your seats, then you wouldn’t have to match anything.

D90 Interior

350mm

I agree. I have the 350 mm Momo wheel in my Defender and I love it. It feels a little small at first, but that is just because the stock one is HUGE!

———–

Momo Competition II

D90 Interior

Removing the steering Wheel
———
Grasp the wheel at the 12 & 6 o’clock position. rock it backward and foward with the center nut backed off.
Pull towards you while rocking the wheel.
Leave the nut on lose, it aviods smacking yourself in the face with the steering wheel when it does come adrift.
I had a wheel puller made up but vey rarely need it.

———
Recently I had cause to remove my steering wheel. I struggled, and then did a search here for advice, most of which amounted to “get a bigger hammer.”

Not being certified in the use of heavy equipment, instead I ordered an OTC model 7245 steering wheel puller for $25. It doesn’t come with the proper size bolts for the Defender steering wheel, but some 4″ long 1/4-28 hex bolts work fine. Had the wheel off in less than 30 seconds, without breaking so much as a sweat.

———-

Here is offical technique from an LR Tech. Two ball peen hammners, loop one through the wheel flat face resting on the stud in the middle of the wheel. Pull the hammer handle towards you putting firm pressure on the rim of the wheel.

Take a second hammer and firmly rap it on the ball part of the first hammer while using you thighs to apply pressure to the bottom part of the wheel rim.

Sounds GOOFY, it worked with two blows of the hammer!

D90 Interior

Here is my version of this program.

———

How to run up the speedometer with a PC.

Items needed:
IBM type PC running DOS
3 wires w/clips on ends
voltmeter
GWBASIC or BASICA or QBASIC

Open your PC and find a spare power connector. Verify with your voltmeter before making connections the following pins on the connector. Yellow is +12 and connects to pin 4 of the speedo. Black is ground and connects to pin 3 of the speedo.

Find pin 16 of the 25 pin D connector of the serial port and connect it to pin 8 of the speedo. Power up the PC while holding down the speedo button and release when the speedo display says PULSE. Follow the instructions and set the speedo to 500 pulses per mile. Next, load GWBASIC and type in the following program:

10 T=590

20 INPUT “Steps per mile->”,S

30 S=S/10

40 INPUT “Current odometer reading->”,C

50 C=C*10

60 INPUT “Run till this odometer reading->”,E

70 E=E*10

80 I=0

90 OUT &H3F8,232

100 FOR J=0 TO T

110 NEXT J

120 OUT &H3F8,236

130 FOR J=0 TO T

140 NEXT J

150 I=I+1

160 IF I < S GOTO 90

170 C=C+1

180 IF C < E GOTO 80

190 STOP

The variable T is used to control the pulse duration. Raise or lower T so that your speedo runs at the maximum display speed. My speedo has a top speed of 85 MPH, and on the PC I am using (25MHz 386), the value of T shown gives me full speed ahead. If your PC is faster, make the value of T (statement 10) larger. Start the program and look at the speed and adjust T accordingly. When you are ready to let 'er rip, go read your current odometer reading and use it when you start the program.

I'm not a Basic programmer, so no flames. The reason everything is done in tens is to avoid cumulative round off errors with floating point numbers (I did not want to have to figure out what the error might be, so I just made it not be a problem).

If you have QBASIC, use the following program:

T = 590
INPUT "Steps per mile->“, S
S = S / 10
INPUT “Current odometer reading->”, C
C = C * 10
INPUT “Run till this odometer reading->”, E
E = E * 10
L0:
I = 0
L1:
OUT &H3F8, 232
FOR J = 0 TO T
NEXT J
OUT &H3F8, 236
FOR J = 0 TO T
NEXT J
I = I + 1
IF I < S GOTO L1
C = C + 1
PRINT C / 10
IF C < E GOTO L0
STOP

One additional note: On my PC, the first serial port is 3F8 which can be determined by going into the bios and looking at the port assignments for the serial ports. You can try loading DEBUG and entering D 40:8 and taking the first two bytes and making them a word and adding 2. Remember, it’s in hex. If your machine’s first port is not 3F8, then you will need to change the port shown in the OUT statements from &H3F8 to whatever your is.

I ran up a stock Hummer speedometer. I set T = 500 and steps per mile at 1000. The speedometer read 100 mpg and the odometer ran at around 300 mph. It was running on an old Pentium II celeron 500 using Win ME.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

I replaced the temp guage and sender on my 93 NAS 110 with a new VDO ‘Vision’ series about two weeks ago. The sender I used is a M16×1.5 thread. The sender went on smoothly with no problems, and no leaks. The sender did not come with a ‘washer’ so I used the original from the OEM LR sender I was replacing.

I purchased the guage and sender form ‘eguages.com’. The part numbers are:

#310-105 VDO Vision guage (250 degree)
#323-417 sender 250 degree m16×1.5

I hope this helps.
————————-

I was in the process of doing this myself. A friend of mine had already installed a VDO sender in his 95 D90 and he told me he had to use a sender that measured 1/8-27 NPT, which is VDO P/N #323 095 for my VDO temp gauge. However, when I went to install it I didn’t have the correct bushing so it was a no go. I hadn’t thought to measure the OEM sender first just to make sure that I had the correct thread count, but when I did measure it out to be M16×1.5, which is VDO part number #323-416.

So I beleive you can either purchase the M16×1.5 or the 1/8-27 NPT WITH a bushing kit. I had niether the bushing kit nor the M16×1.5. I went with the M16×1.5 and should be installing it later next week. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
—————————

Oil Pressure

I bought my #5 o-ring boss to 1/4″ NTP adapter from http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/

———————–

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

btate May 20th, 2006 08:09 AM
VDO speed sensor, can you install to cable?

Ok,
Doing the full VDO vision gauge swap as discussed frequently.
(94 d90 r-380)
I saw a post that linked ECU problems (throwing codes and check engine lights) to lack of factory speed sensor input. This tells computer what speed the truck is driving. From what I can figure the speedo cable goes into a sensor housing that sends this info.

My question….is there a problem with simple placing the speedometer end of the old speedo cable into the VDO speed sensor??
It will take some rigging, but the factory plastic connector is not the best setup anyway, I could get it at least that strong??

It seems that it would elimate some problems and be alot simple install????
Thanks
Bryan

Follow-up Post:

Maybe I am missing something.
Does the new sensor install to t-case (maybe it doesn’t bypass the old sensor)?
or does it install to back side of the vss?

souza May 20th, 2006 08:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by btate
Does the new sensor install to t-case (maybe it doesn’t bypass the old sensor)?
or does it install to back side of the vss?

bryan

The ‘new’ sensor you’re talking about is the hall effect sender, right? I just did this install last week on my truck. The hall effect sender is installed after the vehicle speed sender, which you must keep. That is, you’ve got a cable from the transfer case to the little box on the frame (VSS). Out of that box some wires go to the ECU, and another cable runs up into the engine bay then through the bulkhead to the back of the stock speedo. This is your ’speedometer cable’ and the one that you’ll modify in option 1 below. You do have to keep the factory vehicle speed sensor else you’ll have the code issues, etc., that you mention. So to install the VDO, you have two options:

1, have a speedo shop cut down the long cable to the speedo into a small cable with the stock end for the vss and a ‘new’ 7/8″ GM end which is screwed into the ‘new’ hall effect sender. The hall effect sender has 3 wires that run to the back of the VDO speedo (12v, signal, Grnd). This seems to be the standard route, and is what I did, but it cost more than expected for the cable modfication ($50)

2, I just found out today there is another option, less expensive because you don’t need the hall effect sendor or the cable modification, but also seems easier. You can simply tap into one of the wires coming from the vss (little box between speedo cables) and run a wire directly to the VDO Speedo for a pulse signal. I think I read that the vss has 2 wires, a green and yellow, both go up to the ECU. There may be another wire, but either way it’s the yellow wire that sends the speed pulse signal to the ECU (Green is 12v power). Apparently this signal can also be read by the VDO speedo, you just run it straight to pin 8 on the back of the VDO.

I found this new option looking back at some old posts to the D90 yahoo group. I wish I had read this before buying the hall effect sender and sending out the speedo cable! I’d be interested to see how it works if you go this route. It seems the simpler way for sure.

Good luck, let me know how it goes.

-Dave

btate May 21st, 2006 05:08 AM
great,
your approach sounds simple.
I will try it this morning if time allows.
I also saw this from a buddy Tom Peacock….

As for the new VDO cable, it has the wrong fitting to sinc up to the OEM cable and can’t plug directly into the TC. I read a the thread on this site in the FAQ’s about switching to the VDO programmable speedo, and it said to go to a speedometer shop and:

1. Tell them you will bring in the new VDO sender/cable and your old cable.

2. Ask them to install a 7/8″ x 18 male end onto your old cable. This new male end gets installed on the speedometer end of the cable, and this (newly shortened) cable only needs to be 3-4″ long. The existing female end of your original cable is retained.

3. Using this new short cable as an adapter, screw the original female end into the little frame mounted box right where it used to go, and screw the new male end into the female end of the VDO sender/cable, and zip-tie the sender box (which is a cube about 1-1/2″ on each side) to the frame so it doesn’t bounce around.

4. Hook up the speedo end of the sender/cable to the VDO speedo.

5. Calibrate per directions.

6. Drive around in complete confidence that your speedometer is accurate for a change.

btate May 21st, 2006 07:35 AM
Ok,
I found the yellow wire and taped into ready to hook up to speedo
The Hall effect sender installation shows to connect to pin 6 & 8 (not just
Do still recommend going to pin 8 only?
Thanks

souza May 21st, 2006 09:04 AM
What I read said pin 8 only. I’d try that first, then if it doesn’t work, try 6 & 8. I just 2x checked the speedo instructions, it says 6 & 8 for the hall effect, 7 & 8 for the inductive, and just 8 for using an ‘electronic’ transmission. In this case, that’s you
loykd May 30th, 2006 10:16 PM
Dave, where did you get your speedo cable modified?

souza May 31st, 2006 04:39 AM
Don’t bother Ken, just hook it straight up to the VSS like Bryan did. Right to Pin 8 on the speedo. I’m pretty sure he got it working, we were emailing offline. Last I know he just needed to calibrate it.

But if you still want to send it out, I got mine done at Hartford Speedometer in Connecticut (check yahoo yellow pages). Cost like $65 with shipping, and took several conversations to explain what I wanted. Of course, I didn’t send them the new hall effect sender b/c I already had it installed and wired-up.

btate May 31st, 2006 05:00 AM
Correct,
I taped staight into the VSS and sent the Hall effect unit back to e-gauges.

BUT…. I haven’t calibrated yet. I have adjusted the pulses so I am close. But I just got the 33’s on and haven’t gotten out yet to make sure I can dial it in. I feel confident it will work, I had the pulses to high and the needle shot around quickly….ran the miles up fast also.
I lowered the pulses and got the needle to move smoothly, just shows my speed way low now.

I will get the truck back from the stereo store in a few days and will try to find a mile marker or 2 to calibrate by the end of the week.
Bryan

Backstay July 20th, 2006 01:41 PM
I have done this now as well. Hooked up the yellow wire to pin 8, everything calibrated well and works perfectly except for one thing. …. I come to a stop and occasionally the speedo does not. It will read 30 mph or so and will increase like a tach when the truck is stopped and I rev her up. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John

btate July 20th, 2006 02:34 PM
Ignore it? Just kidding. Mine needle tends to bounce around a bit also. I was thinking my VSS was weak/wearing? But I guess that’s the limit of the VSS. I wonder if your pin settings are correct.
I had to flip the small switches different than the original write-up by DJ. Mine does go to zero and stays once stopped. But bounces around 10-15 just before stopping. It seems to be reading a bit low now also. I am going to recalibrate and see if it improves. I may try the Hall effect method if it gets annoying. I assume you have a good ground?

Backstay July 20th, 2006 04:03 PM
I believe my ground is good. My only issue with it continuing at a stop is the odometer also continues to tick over. I suppose I shouldn’t be worried getting all those extra miles per gallon. Thanks for the input.

John

souza July 20th, 2006 05:31 PM
John it sounds like it only either be the VSS itself or the small cable that runs from the xfer case into the VSS. Do you also have trouble with the idle of the truck while that’s happening? Not throughing and codes is it?

scoloco July 30th, 2006 08:26 AM
VDO - VSS hookup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Backstay
I have done this now as well. Hooked up the yellow wire to pin 8, everything calibrated well and works perfectly except for one thing. …. I come to a stop and occasionally the speedo does not. It will read 30 mph or so and will increase like a tach when the truck is stopped and I rev her up. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John

Ok so I *finally* got around to hooking up my new VDO. I tapped into the yellow wire, went to pin8 (very small guage wire). Calibrated via auto-calibration (came to around 10310 pulses if I read it correctly). Speedo is all over the place. I’ll be chugging along at something slow (20mph?) and the needle will go up to 30, and/or 40mph, for a bit before coming back to 20. When I stop it again sits at 20 or 30 before dropping to 0. Once at 0 though, it stays there.
Any thoughts? Or is it just a really dirty signal. Different, or bigger guage wire going to make a difference?
FWIW, I tapped it in the engine bay, top rear right corner where the wire comes up to a plug.

btate July 30th, 2006 09:02 AM
This is sounding like a pattern. Mine Jumps also. Seemed to work initially but it wasn’t even close to calibrated so that may have dampened the bounce.

My bet is the Factory VSS is not a reliable signal for the VDO swap.

I just got used to it. Seems like a good way to get out of a speeding ticket?? Kidding
If I find a speedo shop I may reorder the Hall effect sender and go that route.

Someone else mentioned that the 97 and 94 were different and that maybe a 97 would be smoother?
But I have not looked up part numbers to verify. Something about it plugging into the transfer case directly.
But I don’t have a 97 close by to verify.

Bryan

souza July 31st, 2006 07:12 AM
What a disappointment. I’m pretty sure the info I got of the old Yahoo groups archives was for the pre-97 trucks though. Of course, those trucks were 5 years newer then. I will say that mine bounces a bit, even using the hall effect and modified cable. Not bad, but cruising along steady it will move up and down 1-3 MPH sort of regularly.

I’ll tell you, you’ve got to wonder what kind of info the ECU is getting with the signal bouncing around like that. My truck idles too high for a few seconds when coming to a stop, I’ve thought it was a bad VSS.

Scott I didn’t know this wire went to the top right of the engine bay, I thought it when only from the transfer case to the ECU…. ?

scoloco July 31st, 2006 04:28 PM
I wasnt sure it would work. Wire is really thin small guage stuff and I suspect there is a lot of noise between the VSS and the speedo at this point. I was hoping for the best. Fortunately I still have the hall effect sensor that I got with the speedo (before I found out about trying the VSS wire). Guess its time to go get my cable adapted (good thing I didnt throw it out - its buggered but enough is still good to adapt).
ECU is likely just looking for a signal to know the car is not stood. With a signal that noisy I doubt it really cares too much. Besides after putting bigger tires on and regearing, no one seems to have much problem w/ the ECU, even though this would throw the signal off a bit.

As for the idle deal, I’ve had a number of cars that would do that - idle high (~1100) until it came to a dead stop and then the idle would drop to 800 or so. (This is what my speedo did - go figure). My truck used to do that but stopped not too long ago. I figured something got out of whack, but I havent dug yet and it hasnt affected anything yet.

VSS wire goes over to the right frame rail, along it for a bit, up into the engine compartment along the firewall to the upper corner where there is a plug before it goes in to the ECU. I tapped in just after the plug. (joys of having the factory manual - for once it was useful!)

loykd August 25th, 2006 10:44 PM
Is the verdict then to modify the speedo cable rather than just do the wire mod?

Scott, once you made that change (presuming you did), did the needle jumpiness go away?

btate August 26th, 2006 04:15 AM
That’s what I would do. The wire is quick and easy, but pretty much makes the speedo worthless for any accurate reading

efournier August 26th, 2006 02:33 PM
I used a brass 3/8 - 1/2 NPT adapter to mount the hall effect sender directly to the VSS. I shortened the threaded end of the adapter by a 1/8″ or so. Both senders secure well enough to the pipe thread of the adapter. I used RTV when I was assembling them and simply used the short square peg drive that came with the VDO sender. Works great.

BTW, I was not able to get the yellow wire trick to work reliably… Accurate speeds below 30-40 MPH, but would never read over 40 no matter how fast I went. Needle bounced al the time as well.

scoloco August 27th, 2006 01:10 PM
I still have the yellow wire hooked up. Needle appears steady at highway speeds (but its a bit slow right now - pulses thing in the vdo set at 5010 if I remember). On the trail (when I’m not paying attention) its still up and down whenever it feels like it.
I have the old speedo cable (its buggered) that I could cut and adapt. Still have the hall effect converter box somewhere. The speedo shop I called wanted ~$80 to fix my speedo cable …. needless to say I’ve not done it yet. Erics method of hooking the hall effect directly to the vss looks interesting… might try that next time I feel motivated.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

The ashtray mount is ideal because it installs in a flash, but I can also house both the power and antenna leads under the tray when the unit isn’t in use.

Its supported by 1/2″ clear plastic (I’m not sure which polymer) with 1/16″ black abs plastic affixed to the top. A bar of tapped 1/8″ aluminum acts as the main support by clamping the unit into place. The 1/2″ block wash an oversized cut, which was molded with 800 grit w/s paper into the ashtray. I left the block slightly larger than the ashtray to provide snug fit. The abs was also molded with the same mesh.

Pics

D90 Interior

The parts catalog lists a weatherstrip (MWC4771) and a filler strip (302178).

D90 Exterior, D90 Interior, D90 Misc

The Iron Goat kit comes with metal box that inserts into the package tray, a metal face plate, a plastic overlay for the front of the dash and all of the switches - all of it top quality. That other unit just looks like a plastic piece - not sure if it would be as durable as the Iron Goat one. I like my IG dash kit - can’t wait to install it.

—–

Why does the dash need to be so “durable”?

Why overpay for US made switches (Carling type) and some metal and plastic?

The mudstuff kit is also a metal surround and the fascia is a thick ABS plastic. I’m not sure why you would want carling switches when you can order more interesting ones that actually have labels and other unique features. The only difference between the mudstuff and IG are the fascia design and that the IG comes with the metal shroud for radio support (if you are installing a radio).

The paddle switches look too much like heavy machinery switches to me. Eaton makes smaller and more elegant ones for their commercial controls division.

Don’t get me wrong, I have my fair share of the carling switches but with the dash install, I’m consolidating and going to smaller switches to clean up the interior.

—–

I concure with you’re decision on the Mud console vs. the IG. The IG doesn’t have the OEM look that the Mud kit has. It looks like it’s been sprayed with hammerite.

—–

You are correct! Thanks, I agree on the difference.

—–

Depends on what you are going to mount to the front of it. You don’t have to cut anything just to mount it. But you’ll run into problems with the depth of any accessories you mount through it.
Reply With Quote

—–

D90 Interior

Disco window regulators usually just break their little plastic rollers. One new regulator installed, and there goes nearly a couple hundred bucks! The rear windows use only one roller per side and most commonly fail. We offer a set of two metal rollers for both rear doors for $79.98 with instructions. Made from 6061T6 aluminum, these are perfect replacements and you’ll never revisit this problem again! (Single metal rollers available too for $49.95)

http://www.falconworks.net/britold/brit.htm

D90 Interior, D90 Misc, Discovery 1

For future reference to anyone needing to know how to remove the (automatic trans) shifter handle on a 97 D-90.

1- The top plate which is textured can be popped out using a tiny screwdriver (note: once you clean the area arround same one side will have a bit more of a gap than the others)

2- Inside there is a retaining clip. Lift the clip/bushing up with needlenose pliers and rotate 1/2 turn. This will allow you to remove the clip (slide over). Remove clip and then lift the bushing out (under the clip) which holds the button. You can now slide the button out (may as well clean it)

3- Note there is a small spring on the inside right (just FYI to avoid loss) .

Then there is a 19mm nut (will require deepwell)

Of course then she pulls right up.

All Rovers, D90 Drivetrain, D90 Interior, D90 Misc

For mounting the liftgate, I drilled the rear of the top to attach the series liftgate hinges and used button head hex bolts for a smoother, rivet-like appearance. I also removed the rear washer jet and plugged it using another identical bolt. Two 30-pound gas struts were required to support the lift gate (I didnt want to use the original series prop-rods) and the brackets are stainless ones which seemed the proper shape. All the gas-strut stuff was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Since I had a used, imperfect headliner, I didnt feel bad cutting it to accomodate the hinges.

D90 Chassis, D90 Exterior, D90 Interior

Interior Door Trim Fastener Rovers North part#MXC1800, these attach to your door and they pop into a female Snapsac(part#MWC3136,again a RN #) that attaches to the door itself. You should need less of these but I know you drivers side door needs one at the top as I had ran out of them when putting your door panel back on. Also, I know you can get these parts at other places,the dealer might even stock them. Both parts were .55 each at RN.

D90 Interior

I used black plastic enamel by Valspar. Primed the plastic first with a plastic primer. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol and clean the surface thoroughly first. 3 light coats 15 minutes apart, the first coat is almost a dusting. I’ve used this before on cars and it lasts for at least 5 years. Any tips for getting the interior door panels off? Cost was $7.00 for primer and paint.

All Rovers, D90 Interior

Remove stock Land Rover speedometer

Replace the speedo with a VDO 4″ electronic programmable speedo with reset odometer. (use either #437-155 with a limit of 120 MPH or #437-156 with a limit of 130 kph) #437-155

Wire VDO according to instructions: Run power and ground for speedo and two lamps

Run the two wires from the ‘97 OEM Land Rover sender mounted in the LT-230 transfer case (if installing in a ‘94 or ‘95, mount a ‘97 Land Rover sender (LR #AMR 1253) and replace the stock speedometer cable with the wires from the sender)

D90 Interior

Sorry about the delay, while I don’t have any working pictures available (D90 is in the shop) I do have some of the installation. I have left a list of the part numbers for the VDO gauges below. As for swapping out the lights I guess you could do that but I’m not sure where to find a bulb that possesses a higher wattage nor am I aware of the listed wattage. Personally the VDO’s are far superior and less expensive in the long run as any accessory or part is easy to find.

I purchased all of my senders and gauges from egauges.com. Also all of the gauges are VDO Vision Black Series and are 2 1/16” in diameter except for the Speedometer which is 4-in.

Electronic Speedo: 85MPH (#437 154), however these might be out of production by now so you’ll have to use the 120MPH (#437 155)
Speedo Sender: GM Sender (#340 011)

Temp Gauge: 250F/150C Range (#310 105)
Temp Sender: 250F/150C Range (#323 095). The thread is 1/8-27 NPT for most 95 D90’s. The others are metric and I’ll have to double check which one, but I believe mine was M14×1.5 (#323 416).

I went through the two listed Senders and ended up having to get the VDO 323-417 one. My sender is the m16×1.5.

Tachometer: 6K RPM (#333 158) Just use the same wire from your alternator.

Fuel Gauge: Vision (#301 105) Again just use the same wire from the sender in the tank. There is no need to swap that out.

Electrically the only modifications that you’ll have to perform are to establish new connections for the programmable speedometer and exchange the OEM light sockets for the VDO sockets using the same wires. The other issue is the Speedo sensor. You can do it yourself or take it to a speedometer-shop and have them install it. I had a shop do it for about $50.

I’ll post some of my install pictures later tonight.

Regards

DJ

No problem. Here’s how I did my gauge swap. First a couple of notes; I wanted to ensure a good connection without soldering so all the connectors are crimp only with adhesive lined heat-shrink. The latter is something I regret doing because the chance of moisture build-up on the terminals is slim, thus the typical Nylon or PVC barreled connectors should suffice. Plus, if I wanted to be that anal about it I could have just used dielectric grease to prevent water ingress. Also, I did this about two years ago some my memory of the install isn’t precise so be aware that I may have neglected some steps.

Some of the tools and supplies you’ll need are listed below:
• Number 2 Pozidrive (I recommend the ACR version from Snap-On)
• needle nose pliers
• wire stripping/crimping tool and/or diagonal cutters
• 0.250” 10-12 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for doubling grounds)
• 0.250” 14-16 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for all other connections)
• 0.025” 12-14 AWG adhesive lined heat shrink (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Butane Torch (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Metric open ended wrench (I’ll have to check the size)
• 50:50 water/antifreeze solution
• Shop towels and a basin to catch & clean up antifreeze

Ok, the first thing you want to do is remove the gauge cluster. With the #2 Pozidrive remove the two screws from both sides of the fascia and the two on the bottom. Gently pull the cluster out and immediately reach behind the speedometer and remove the mechanical Speedo-cable. Its really in there so give it a good pull and don’t worry you won’t break it as long as you pull it directly away from you. If you pull to the side you risk snapping the drive flange.

Now that you have it out you’ll noticed that the cluster is tethered in three spots. Two directly plug into the idiot light cluster and the other is for the gauge cluster. Remove all three (harness plug pic 1). Now you should be able to remove the cluster. If not make a note of any remaining connections and label them with tape (main pic 1).

Speedometer : Removing the speedometer is easy. Just unscrew the threaded nuts and disconnect all wiring. The directions that come with the Speedo are self explanatory. Since there are a few different ways to install it you should follow the directions that illustrate the “Hall Sensor.” It’s pretty easy. Just remember to leave some slack from the sensor cable so you can remove the gauge cluster with ease in the future.

Speedometer Sensor : I didn’t do this and instead had a local Speedometer shop do it. But you will have to affix 0.250” 14-16 AWG male connectors to the wires from the Speedo sensor.

Fuel and & Water Gauge : The fuel and water gauge are the easiest to swap out since their electrical configurations are the same (pic 1). First thing you need to do is find the green wires attached to both gauges. There should be two per gauge; one with a clear PVC boot and the other with a clear rubber boot. The connector with the rubber boot is male and must be swapped out for a female connector (water & fuel pic 1). Remove the male spade from the black on green wire (rubber boot) and replace it with a female. Do this for both gauges. Next remove the plug from the light socket on both gauges and replace each wire (two per socket) with a female spade connector. Lastly you need to replace the main ground. Since you have a ring terminal on the OEM connection you’ll have to replace it with the larger 10-12 AWG female spade connector.

Now that you have the proper connectors you must reinsert them into the new gauges. With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The solid green wire (PVC boot) is positive terminal and the black on green (Rubber boot) in the “negative” terminal (fuel pic 1 & 2). The same goes for the water gauge (water pic 1 & 2). The main ground is the terminal on the bottom. The light merely snaps into the back of the gauge.

Position the gauge and tighten the screw-loc to secure the gauge in place and you’re done with these two gauges.

Water Sensor : The water sensor must be replaced in order for the VDO gauge to read the temperature correctly. The OEM doesn’t support the OHM range required so you’ll have to pop the hood and swap it out for a new one (water sensor pic 1). The sensor is located at the engine block terminus of the upper coolant hose. Follow the upper hose down to the block and you’ll see the sensor to the immediate right (facing the vehicle) of the passenger side rocker cover (water sensor pic 2 & 3). Prepare to remove the sensor by placing a basin at the bottom of the sump along with some towels to prevent antifreeze from making a mess. You’ll also want to insert a dry rag under the sensor so that you may plug the hole to prevent too much antifreeze from escaping you coolant system.

Remove connection from the sensor. Now with a XX-mm wrench (I’ll have to check on the size) remove the sensor and quickly insert the rag into the outlet. Replace with the new sensor until snug (water sensor pic 4). The new sensor will require a 14-16 AWG ring connector. Remove the female connector and apply the new one. Unscrew the black nut on the new sensor and install the sensor wire. Now is a good time to apply any dielectric grease to the post. Screw the nut back on and you done. Clean up the antifreeze and top off your coolant system with the 50:50 mixture or other desired proportion.

Tachometer : The tachometer requires more adjustments than the previous two. First remove all the wires from the OEM tach. There should be one grey on white & one green both with black PVC boots, two black (one is has ring terminal and the other a black PVC boot) and the other two are from the light and should be red and white on red both connected to a black PVC boot (tach pic 1). Remove the black PVC boot from the red & white on red wires & the black wire. Also remove the ring terminal from the other black wire. Replace both the red and red on white wires along with the 14-16 AWG female connectors. Combine both black wires with the 10-12 AWG female connectors. Only the green and grey on white wires should remained untouched (tach pic 2).

With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The ground wires (dual black) should plug into the negative terminal (pic 2). The green wire with black PVC boot should go into the positive terminal (pic 2). The grey on white wire with black PVC boot should insert into the terminal marked “2” (pic 2). There shouldn’t be a terminal at position 1. Plug both of the red and red on white wires into the new light socket and insert the socket into place and you’re done (tach pic 3).

Now you’ll not in my pictures there is no screw-loc to keep the gauge in place. I ultimately swapped in a screw-loc, but originally went with the OEM fasteners as seen. Either is fine. The last thing you need to do is tell the tach what engine you’re monitoring. On the back you’ll have to select the keys according to the directions that are provided with the gauge (pic 3). I think (but am not sure) it goes up, down, up. I’ll have to double check.

With everything installed simple plug the three harnesses back into their positions and attach the gauge cluster. Turn on the engine to make sure everything is operational. If you’re tach isn’t working then it’s probably because you didn’t configure the three switches in the correct orientation. Other issues might arise from a poor ground connection or you’ve mistakenly swapped a terminal. If you still can’t troubleshoot the issues just email me at medaniel@msn.com and we’ll try to figure out the issue.

VDO #437 155 is the 120MPH version
VDO #437 157 is the 85MPH (with kph markings sorta similar to stock) in 100mm size but I’ve only found one website that lists them. Getting ready to start a phone hunt coz this is what I want if I can find one.

I think only a speedo shop can do it. As you look at the back of the VDO speedo, on the left side, remove the light. Look in the hole. On the right edge of the hole on the PCB there are three spots onto which your local speedo tech will solder some leads, hook up to a computer, and use a proprietary computer program to adjust the odometer.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

Here is my gauge installation write-up. It was a fairly easy job. One of my goals was to make the install look as “stock” as possible. I found that the VDO Black Cockpit Series gauges are very close “appearance wise” to the stock gauges and are “back lit” as well. The only difference I found was that the VDO Cockpit Series have red needles and the stock gauges have white needles. Also, a BIG THANK YOU goes to Mike H. for the radio insert!

Below is the parts list:

Parts:

VDO Oil Pressure Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN:310 041

Range: 0 ~ 80 psi, 0~180ohm, 7psi warning

Price: $25.75

VDO Sender:

Source: egauges.com

PN: 360 009

Range: 10~180ohm, dual contact for sender and warning lamp

Price: $33.54

Adapter Fitting:

Source: Parker Hydraulics

PN: 5-1/8 F50G-S

Price: $11

VDO Voltmeter Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN: 332 041

Price: $25.74

Panel:

Source: egauges.com

PN:PAN001

Price: $16

Radio Housing:

Source: Rovers North

PN: RNH512

Price: $38

License Plate Inserts

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3

Green Dash Bulbs

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3

1) Removed pressure switch.

2) Assembled adapter fitting to sender. Do not use tape. Be sure that it’s tight.

3) With the o-ring (on the adapter) lubed with oil, fasten sender to oil pump housing.

4) Run a 16gage wire from the sender to inside the cabin. I used the wiring loom that runs along the passenger side of the engine that passes through the bulkhead near the fuse panel. Refer to pic.

5) Fasten warning light wire and gauge wire to the sender.

6) Fasten ground wires to the fuse panel plate (16gage).

7) Run the ground wires and the sender wire up through the dash. (I used a snake…works well)
For power, tap into cigarette lighter, for the gauges and the lights. The dash light wiring (18gage) was “Daisy Chained”. Just follow the wiring diagram that comes with the gauges.

9) Press the licenses plate inserts into the vent slots (I did this to avoid drilling into the dash)

10) Drill the holes in the radio insert for mounting

11) Drill a hole into the cluster cover for the wires. (I hated to do this, but I did not know how to route the wires otherwise.)

12) Replace the clear bulb in the gauges with a green bulb to match stock gauges

13) Assemble gauges and wiring

14) Enjoy your favorite alcoholic beverage while admiring your hard work!

Added notes:

The radio housing was trimmed because of interference with the cluster cover. I installed only two gauges and I pre-wired for the third gauge. All wire connections are made with shielded connectors and applied with dielectric grease.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

I just installed a VDO oil pressure gauge and sender on mine, although I have a 3.9L. I had to buy a special adapter from Parker Hydraulics to installed the sender. The sender has 1/8NPT male threads and the oil pump housing has 1/2-20 (#5 O-ring) female threads. Refer to my write-up in the “Small Projects” section.

#5 O-ring to 1/8NPT

You can take an old pressure sender, break out the top plastic part, drill it out and tap it, slam dunk.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

> > Remove the signal lights and the headlight trim and
> > headlight.
> > Follow the wiring from the turn signal that is in
> > the bumper. It will go through a grommet in the
> > lower fender. Follow it until you find where it
> > plugs into 2 black barrel like fittings (called
> > Lucar connectors). Unplug the bumper lamp wiring.
> >
> > Then follow the wires from the back of the lower
> > parking light. Remove these wires from their Lucar
> > connectors (they just pull out, unless corroded)
> > then plug these wires into the Lucar connectors that
> > the old bumper turn signal used to turn into. This
> > converts the lower parking light into a turn signal.
> >
> > Now replace the bulb with an 1156? (7506 or 105) bulb from your
> > local parts store and you are done. Well, you have
> > to do the other side.
> >
> > If you want to get really trick you can order a
> > stop/tail light from Rovers North #RTC5523 and wire
> > it up so that you will still have both upper and
> > lower parking lights (same theory as above) but you
> > will also connect the red parking light wire as
> > well. Then toss the red lens they sent with it and
> > install your old amber lens. This will keep your
> > factory look, but will give you a turn signal in the
> > lower lamp.
> >
> > Sometimes this simple swap can be a bitch becuase
> > Rover didn’t leave the wires very long, so it can be
> > aggrevating to get everything plugged in.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

You’ll need 2 stop/tail lamp assemblies from a Series III/ Euro Defender (part# RTC5523) and 2 amber lenses for the same (part # 589285).

Then remove the factory turn signal and the lower marker light.
Then blend the wiring, putting the parking light wiring (red w/ black stripe) to the red wire on the new lamp. Then take the turn signal wire (green w/red stripe LH) and (green w/white stripe RH) and attach it to the green w/ purple wire on the lamp assembly.
Then attach the black ground wire to the black ground wire on the lamp.
Install it in the 90 just like the one you took out. Chuck the red lens and install the amber lens and now you will still have all 4 marker lights and the lower one will flasher brighter (and at the normal speed) when you turn.

If your 90 has the modern black backed lights you will have to do some wire cutting and you should paint the white base of the new lamp black so it looks the same when you install it.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

There is a temperature cutoff - ie, it wont run the A/C if the engine temps are too high. Once way to test this is to disconnect the temp sensor (it’s to the bottom left of the thermostat housing) and connect the two wires. If you clutch now engages properly you either have a bad temp switch or a overheating problem.

When I installed electric fans in my truck I used the A/C temp sender location for the fans, and had to close the A/C sender circuit to allow at least the A/C fans to come on.

D90 Electrical, D90 Interior

4×4 Gear
Defender Dash Console from MUD-UK
Published: 15th Mar 2007
Original article: http://www.difflock.com/magazine/4×4_Gear/Defender_Dash_Console_MUD-UK.shtml  MUD-UK
 mud@mudstuff.co.uk
 www.mudstuff.co.uk
 Price: £49.00

The unique design of the MUD Dash Console offers the flexibility to mount the CD/Tuner head unit into one of two positions within the console and still leave plenty of room for ancillaries. Each console is made from tough ABS plastic and sports a textured finish that replicates the factory dashboard surface.

A huge advantage of the MUD Centre Console is that it comes supplied as a blank moulding for the user to tailor their own console layout to suit their needs. Using the MUD Centre Console, the design and layout permutations are truly endless.

Aside from being able to accept a standard DIN sized CD/Tuner head unit in either the upper or lower positions, the mouldings have been designed to accept standard sized 52mm auxiliary gauges as well as the most popular type of aftermarket switches. (Eaton & Carling). Another obvious advantage of the MUD Centre Console moulding’s versatility is that it allows the user to reuse any existing switches they may already have.

Two recessed mouldings within the console provide a neat method of relocating the standard rear-wash wipe switch (if fitted) and the 12v cigar lighter/power socket while for that finishing touch, the MUD Centre Console is fitted with an additional recessed oval moulding designed to accept a Genuine Parts Land Rover logo.

Each MUD Centre Console comes complete with a steel mounting kit including end plates and a fully illustrated fitting guide. (Land Rover badge extra)

D90 Interior

4×4 Gear
Defender Dash Pod from MUD-UK
Published: 15th Mar 2007
Original article: http://www.difflock.com/magazine/4×4_Gear/Defender_Dash_Pod_from_MUD-UK.shtml  MUD-UK
mud@mudstuff.co.uk
www.mudstuff.co.uk
Price: £36.00

Following the overwhelming success of the Mud Centre Console, MUD-UK has come up with another clever solution that solves the problem of how/where to mount extra switches, controls and gauges into a Defender dashboard.

The MudPod mounts on top of the dashboard using a dedicated mounting frame that utilises the opening in the Defender dash, normally filled by the ashtray. A unique feature of mounting frame is that it allows the MudPod to be installed without the need for any holes to be drilled into the dash.

The MudPod comes supplied as a blank moulding for the user to do with it whatever they want. With 305mm by 35mm of available space, the MudPod has enough space to accept five standard sized 52mm auxiliary gauges. The MudPod also offers more than enough of room to mount the most popular type of aftermarket switches. Another obvious advantage of the MudPod blank moulding is that it allows the user to reuse any existing switches they may already have.

The MudPod is made from tough ABS plastic and sports a textured finish that replicates the factory dashboard surface. For those users looking to maximise space for auxiliary equipment and controls, the MudPod has been designed to perfectly compliment the Mud Centre Console.

Each MudPod comes complete with a mounting kit and a fully illustrated fitting guide.

D90 Interior

Pull off the panel and look at it. It’s pretty easy to figure out. The catch gets worn then sticks. A few seconds with a file and a shot of oil and it’ll work like new. It’s a fairly common problem.

D90 Interior

I have aluminum sides/top on a POE top, so I don’t know whether or not you have the same top, but I did replace the glass (same piece) as you. At least on my top, I don’t know how you can replace it without removing the entire assembly, but that is not really a big deal–it just seems like it would be. For mine, first take off the rubber trim–just find the break and pull it all off–it goes back in pretty easy. This will reveal rivits that hold the window in. Drill these out–it will take under 20 minutes. The window frame then pops out. At the top of the frame where the vertical cross member is, you will see
a screw (there is one at the bottom too, but you only need to remove 1 screw). When you take the screw out, the frame will be able to flex up–this will allow you to take the window out. Assemble in reverse order and re-rivit it back together. It is VERY easy. When putting the rubber gasket the covers up the rivits back on, I used liquid detergent/water and a plastic putty knife thing.

D90 Exterior, D90 Interior