MyRovers.com

Tried the waxoyl lubricant spray and clay bar wash today, and finished it off with the waxoyl polymer sponge (good for 100 washes?). Curiosity got the better of me, after reading a thread on it.

Here are my impressions:

1. If the truck is too dirty, give it a quick light wash first, let dry.
2. Pour the lubricating lotion into the provided spray bottle, and unwrap the clay bar (green).
3. Spray a very light mist on one section of vehicle. (3×3′ section) a little will do ya.
4. Take clay bar in hand and rub in circular motion. The warmer it gets in the hand, the more the bar molds to the shape of each section.
5. Rub with light to moderate strength, harder on stubborn road grime.
6. You will feel when the surface starts gliding, you will see dirt, wax,even overspray etc. come out of the paint.
7. You will feel when the surface is too dry, spray more lube.
7. Wipe off each section after rubbing with a clean dry cloth.
8. Wipes off to a creamy paint shine easily.
9. Once done buff lightly all around the truck, be surprised. Neverseen the truck that clean and creamy.
10. no real residue, and any wipes off easy.
11. To the polymer sponge.
12. Pierce the yellow side of sponge three times with sharp object. (knife)
13. Sponge has an internal sac that contains the polymer.
14. This stuff glides on VERY easily. Do the whole truck in five minutes. Make sure the stuff is coming out.
15. Let the stuff dry to a haze.
16. Buff off with clean dry rags/towels, haze wipes off VERY easy.
17. Black parts unaffected by stuff, wipes off completely, even the wheel fender flares.
18. Use it all over the cage, brilliant and leaves no white residue.
19. Use it on the bumper, and cross member, no residue.
20. Stand back and admire.

Conclusion: Cleanest, smoothest finish I have ever seen. Best product I have ever used, goodby to wax marks on black. (thank God!)

LR3 MISC

#4 Pozidrive bit to replace door hinges.

LR3 MISC

Anyway . . .

The biggest thing for now is to pull the transmission crossmember and treat and or patch the steel there. That rust is structural. DO IT NOW!!!!! Your frame can actually buckle in this spot (saw it happen to a Range Rover Classic once).

It is not that hard to patch.

Now as far as the rear cross member.

Pull the step bumper off. See how bad it is. MAKE SURE TO CLEAN ALL THE MUD OUT OF THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAILS. Seal off so NO MUD GETS IN THE CROSSMEMBER OR FRAME RAILS. You can do this by welding patches in the cross member.

Now get a wire brush for your grinder and wire brush all the rust. Now spray rust converter on it. Now primer. Now paint. Let dry for a few weeks, then spray with waxyoil or similar.

The rear cross member repair and especially the transmission cross member repair should get you another 10 years no problem.

If you keep the mud out of the inside of the frame and some paint on the outside of the frame, a land rover frame will last a very long time. If you do not, it will rust away quickly.

Ron

LR3 MISC

I fitted a Redarc Dual Battery controller/Isolator I think they are available on Ebay, This controller only charges the Aux battery after it has charged your main battery 1st It also isolates itself from the main battery when it has dropped below a certain voltage. Smile

I put a Century 35L battery (I had a deep cycle battery from previous Disco 2 but it wouldnt fit) in the space next to the ABS and 2 long (6mm ?) bolts with a home made clamp on one side at the bottom of the battery, the battery has a flange on each side of the battery the other flange goes under a ledge already in the car. It appears it has been made to take an extra battery. I also installed a couple of circuit breakers.

——-

The bolt part numbers are RO-XYG500061 & RO-XYG500051, one is longer than the other. My dealer found the part number for the strap accross the top, but it was a UK order (4-6 weeks) and if it is designed like the one on the main battery it is narrow at the top with a step down (I wanted to fit the largest battery I could). As a result I decided not to order the original strap.

I made my own strap out of mild steel (20mm*3mm) and cold shaped it. All you really need to do this is a heavy vice, a large hammer, some measuring tools, a drill, and files. It took about half an hour.

I installed a Yellow Top R34. It is an expensive deep cycle battery, but it is also better specified than most. It has the highest capacity (55Ah @ 20Hr) from all the deep cycle units I looked at. It is also capable of high current/high voltage fast charging. This means a quicker recovery and, if you check on this forum, you will discover that the Disco3 charge system has the potential to reach voltages around 15.5V

I used Drivesafe’s isolator (search for Drivesafe posts on this forum), because it is allegedly the only unit that does not effect the LR warranty. (I was unable to prove this via any documentary evidence). It is also lower cost (<50% of anything else), and it is arguably smarter.

———

The space under the ABS cover is actually referred to in the workshop manual as being for an aux battery.

You could also mount one in front f the main battery if you wanted to.

When drivesafe has developed his controller for the D3, I might even mount a second aux.

————

OK, I have fitted the Aux Battery, plus the isolater and wired it in. Had to do a bit of reshaping on the battery strap to suit the 55ah Optima Yellow Top I put in - that’s max for the space btw, and now I’m ready to run the power back in to the car. I also fitted a little battery monitor - pics when I get back from china.

——-

This post might be too late (I have been outback for a month). I ran a large cable from a circuit breaker near the aux battery to the rear right side luggage area. The cable was a ’starter’ size cable.

The route/method was as follows.
If you remove the inner plastic guard for the right front wheel you will see a large grommet that has a spare blind nipple on it. You can trim this nipple to size and pass your cable from the engine bay to he underside of the car through it.

I used flexible conduit to contain the cable under the car and routed it with the existing harnesses to the rear of the vehicle. I also picked up existing mounting points for the flexible conduit.

At the rear I removed one of the body grommets and replaced it with a suitable sized glind (cross between a grommet and a cable clamp). The cable passed through this glind providing a water/dust tight seal and a mechanical clamp for the cable. I have a fuse box mounted in the rear, running an inverter (charging cameras etc), refrigerator, and camp lighting. The fuse box is mounted to a storage system (draws/shelves etc) in the rear luggage space.

——–

I was just looking into the Optima Yellow Top batteries mentioned here. I presume there was a typo in an earlier entry - and the right battery is a D34 (rather than R34).

Of those that installed this battery, what did you use for a tray? I hate the thought of H2SO4 dribbling onto the D3 body.

LR3 MISC

New TSB issued yesterday - LA204-008 Discovery 3/LR3 - Uneven Tire Wear (unfortunately LRs US masters seems to have influenced the spelling of tyre) Vin range: 5A300259-6A403382

Summary:

A customer may report a concern of uneven tire wear.

Cause: Certain vehicles may experience a degree of ‘bush settle’ after the initial geometry setting following production (this has now been compensated for using calculated geometry settings introduced from the VIN above). This ‘bush settle’ may change the geometry settings to outside of normal tolerance and may increase tire wear. This issue is not experienced on all vehicles and the toe sensitivity may be attributed to other factors.

Action: Should it become necessary to adjust vehicle geometry due to specific complaints of tire wear, it should be set to the dimensions detailed in this bulletin. For all other cases requiring geometry setting, the dimensions in the workshop manual should be used.
_________________

“Land Rover issued a technical service bulletin LA204-005 in the U.S. , which covers VINs 5A000360 to 6A403382. The TSB states that uneven tire wear may be caused by a degree of bush settle that affects the geometry of the tires increasing tire wear.”

LR3 MISC

the goodyear MT/R in 255/55 x19 is the best option for the HSE LR3. Michelin and Pirelli make A/T tires in the stock diameter for both 18″ and 19″ wheel sizes.

the Goodyear MT/R is only available in the UK. Currently, Bronco4×4.com seems to be the most convenient place to buy them from, but I am hearing rumors of other channels via group buys.

not sure if this was or could be part of your question but the “rim” sizes are not all the same in terms of offset. the lr3 and range rover “sport” are the same platform and thus also share the same rime offset, while the big range rover has it’s own. thus rims are only interchangeable b/n sport and lr3.
you may not want to stick with stock sizes anyway on tires as they kind of look dinky on the lr3, possibly more to do with styling because even though the 2004 D2 had smaller tire diameters, they looked better in the wheel wells @ 255/55×18.
the lr3 is 255/60×18 or 255/55×19 stock michelin xpc, which is a very good all around tire by the way. i’ve done some crazy mud stuff in those but they handle highway rain and snow well too.

lastly, you may find if you dig far enough that most LR3 people are going with the Nitto Terra Grappler in 285/60×18 for off road while pretty darn good on road to/from play time.

LR3 MISC

From the Disco3.uk.co forum:

Here is the list of fixes and VIN range for the North America Technical Service Bulletin:
(as posted by tommithy here)
TSB SB034-SB036

Electronic Air Suspension Compressor Upgrade (includes upgrade ride level control module software) LR3 5A000259 to 6A374589

Upgrade Engine Control Module Software LR3 5A000259 to 6A390949

Upgrade Transfer Case Control Module Software LR3 5A000259 to 6A390949

Upgrade Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning Control Module Software
LR3 5A000259 to 6A390949

Upgrade Instrument Pack Control Module Software LR3 5A000259 to 6A390949

Environmental Box (E-Box) Sealing Grommet Check LR3 5A000259 to 6A374589

Upper Tailgate Support Fixing torque, rattle repair LR3 5A000259 to 6A374836

VIN: 5A000259 - 6A390949 05 & 06 models.

——————————————–

Vehicle Enhancement Program Report post

Is now on GTR so the dealers should know about it. A034/A036V3 Service Action.

Its basically an amalgamation of everything we have ever come up with as a solution on this site over the past 18 months, including the infamous tailgate strut check!

It also looks like we early model owners will loose the pre-heat function.

Compressor part number check, with either a repair kit application, or a renewal of the compressor if it meets certain criteria.

Installation of the overlay harness on the park brake.

Check of a grommet on the enviro box.

Many software upgrades.

Does not include the upgrades to the Infotainment system, or Park Distance control ECU replacement.

I would hang fire before bombarding the dealers with this, as they should be allowed a chance to do this officially.

Thanks to AN for making me aware of this one Thumbs Up .

It was released 9th June. Only applicable for 2 years, expires 5th June 2008.

LR3 MISC

275/65/r18 cooper stt’s. These are 32 inch mud tires and rub a little bit on full flex in the back. so their are LR3’s running big tires but i don’t know about 17 rims here.

the 19″ Goodyear MT/R’s and they are great! Can’t air them down but with the TC and MT/R’s I haven’t felt the need to run low pressure.

the Nittos are 32.6″, on 18″ rims (285/60/18), but I may be mistaken. I rub ever so slightly on the forward portion of the rear wheel wells (say at 9:00 o’clock on a clock dial).

running 17″ rims, and fitted 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ muddies (only just become available here in Western Australia). These are 32″ dia tyres and I’ve had no rubbing issues on any setting or when flexing.

LR3 MISC

Anybody know the lenth of the capacitive tube on the BRP fuel sending unit? Question

12″

Any problem cutting it back to 11″ ?

Nope just use a tubing cutter not a bandsaw, hacksaw or any other kinda saw. and don’t loose the little spiders (spacers)

So the centre rod just gets the side cutters Bernie? Question

Yep, there’s also a thingy that I can order that goes on the end of it to show if you have water in the fuel but if you cut it to just the right length…a couple of mm from the bottom of the tank it will do the same thing…that is show FULL intermittently when the water bubble passes across the sender…

LR3 MISC

Spray, finished the temp sender mount this weekend…

3/4″ copper pipe, Teleflex 1/8″ NPT Marine sender, long 1/8″NPT nut, SS hose clamps

Finished product with Crimp-on connector for ground.

Sender mount installed in straight section of water line as it leaves the engine (drivers side)
_________________

LR3 MISC

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/accessories/acsubcontaineritems/10/41/425/5/1770/11557/all/1.aspx

http://www.ktcrafts.com/tommy/accessories.html

http://www.kartaccessories.com/HTML/black/html/main/u_vehicles.htm

http://www.essexmfg.com/

http://www.savantmfg.com/Radiator%20Protector.htm#Yamaha

http://hoagindustries.com/Front%20Page.htm

http://outdoorsouthinc.com/rhino.htm

http://www.greenemountain.net/yamaha_rhino.htm

http://www.aluminumproducts.com/main.htm

http://www.hunterworks.com/yamaha_rhino_accessories

http://www.montanajacks.com/rhino_theme_slideshow/yamaha_rhino_accessories.htm

http://www.camrockfab.com/

http://www.rangerwarewps.com/

http://www.rhinoaccessories.com/

http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/accessories/catalog=1180/accessorylist1180.htm

http://hometown.aol.com/love2bnyou/accessories.html

http://www.jamesgreene.com/yamaha_rhino.htm

http://www.arizonasportscenter.com/rhino_products.html

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/bilaa/buggybilaa1.htm

http://unifilter.com/atv.htm (availiable through BRP)

http://yamaharhino.com/

Other sites I’ve used to outfit my Rhino:

http://sites.eoi.com/folder14788/index.cfm?fuseaction=detail&id=36423&product=13

http://www.sunnbattery.com/item.html;$sessionid$ASUU3KIAAAIYLTZENUFJPQWPERWRJPX0?UCIDs=559844%7C1209500&PRID=1239351

http://www.masterpull.com/

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/pullpal/

http://www.xm-radio-satellite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=247

www.cardinal-sales.com

http://www.lemondeduvtt.com/ray_4_4.html

www.atvoutfitters.net

Some links from Mike65072:

http://atvpartsdepot.com/ (Misc parts)
http://atvsilencer.com/ (Quiet muffler)
http://www.bigbuckrack.com/ (Misc parts)
http://www.enmco.com/enm_catalog/index.html (Tachs)
http://www.gorilla-axle.com/gorilla_axle_website_001.htm (Axles etc)
http://www.sendec.com/meters/html/8xx100.html#install (Tachs)
http://www.edecals.com/ (Decals/flames)
http://www.magneticflames.com/p.calflames.htm (Decals/flames)

Vendor list from ‘04 Atv Expo:

http://www.atv-industry.com/atvexpo/exhibitor/exlistbyname.html

Miscellaneous:

http://www.aaenperformance.com (Polaris performance parts)

http://www.beaverpro.com/index.htm

http://www.trail-mark.com/Power_Dump_Pro.htm (aluminum off-road trailers)

http://www.cyclecountry.com/ (snow plows)

http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/index.html

http://www.gerbing.com/pages/clothing/twopiece.html (heated riding wear)

http://www.worldofpowersports.com/

Other Forums:

www.utilityoffroad.com

http://www.yamaharhino.org/

http://www.ridesidebyside.com/forums/index.php

http://www.highlifter.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB28

http://texomaoffroad.luckydogpro.com/

And a big thanks for everybody’s input! Very Happy

LR3 MISC

Installed BRP sensor on driver side, coolant hose(by the writing on the hose/BRP Recomendation).

LR3 MISC

I too have a 5′ trailer. I have had the Rawhides (stock tires/wheels), ITP 25″ Holeshot ATRs, 26″ Bighorns (they are really 27-1/4″ tall), and Carlisle 25″ All Trails. All the after market tires have been on the ITP C-6 5+2 (standard ITP offset). I also have a pair of 1″ and a pair of 1.5″ wheel spacers. My rhino now has over 2,800 miles on it.

I have taken all the measurements for the stock wheels and can tell you that worrying about what the stock rims measure is a waste of time. Your shock settings and tire pressure will play a big part of what you can do with wheels and tires and still fit on a 60″ wide trailer without rubbing the sidewalls.

When evaluting your anticipated width with ITP rims…keep in mind that the 5+2 (standard offset) wheel will add about 1-1/4″ per wheel to the offset over the stock wheels. That does not take into account the added width of aftermarket tires. Nor does it account for the extra static sag in the suspension produced by the extra width of the new wheels/tires. And you will likely run the new tires at much lower psi also resulting in more “between the rails” width.

Another thing to consider is that the 2+5 (reverse offset) ITP rim is exactly 1.5″ wider than the standard offset. So, a 5+2 rim with a 1.5″ wheel spacer is the exact same offset as a 2+5 reverse offset rim.

The factory tires are labeled as 10″ wide tires but in fact are not even close. More like 8.75″. Whereas with ITP tires they will be what ITP says they are. And when they say a tire replaces a 10″wide tire that does not mean it is a 10″ wide tire. Likely it is more. A bunch more if you run low psi like I do.

When I was in your shoes, I could not get enough accurate information (mostly because there are too many variables to account for) as to what my width with the ATRs and reverse offset wheels would be. I did want to be as wide as possible and still get on my 60″ wide trailer. That is why I went with wheel spacers. I never regretted it. It has given me total control regardless of tire choice, tire psi, shock settings etc.

For a baseline, I will say that with the stock shocks at the factory settings both front and rear, 25″ ATRs at 8 psi…. on 5+2 rims with 1.5″ spacers on the rear….. and 1″ spacers on the front….the rhino was 57.5″ wide front and 58.5″ wide rear. Additionally, that configuration will put your center tracks in near perfect alignment. At that width, with the 25″ ATRs stability is awesome and due to the combination of center-track alignment and superior performance of the ATRs…steering/ handling was still very, very good. It fit on the 60″ wide trailer without rubbing but it took a bit of effort to line it up perfect enough. That is to say it took maybe 60-120 seconds instead of not even slowing down when coming onto the trailer….

When I lowered my rear shocks to the minimum setting…and with 5 psi in the rear tires…I could not fit on the trailer period….I swappped the 1.5″ for the 1″ spacers and could make it but not without a little bit rubbing. That left me with the 5+2 rims with no spacers on the front (55.5″ wide) and about 59″ wide in the rear. That set up was the best compromise and the set-up I liked the most. Stability was still very, very good and steering was nothing short of excellent.

So, lots of variables….but with 5+2 rims and any tire you want with any shock setting you want you will be able to easily fit on your 60″ wide trailer.

The Rawhides are the worst of the worst imo. I think the AT 489s would be a much better stock tire than the Rawhides and the Maxxis tires they come with now don’t appear to be much different than the Rawhides but I am not sure. I can say that the AT 489s are great in the sand dunes.

I would never get 27″ tires again. Than hit the wheel wells hard enough to pop the bed open (did that many times) unless you are willing to jack the shock pre-load high enough to have a buck-board ride and even then you cannot seriously challenge the suspension with out hitting the wheel wells.

The Bighorns are very tough and lots of ground clearance at over 27″ tall. But I flat out think they sucked. I would only want them for the worst terrain, that is where they shine…but, not where I usually go…the traction/hook up were poor on hardpack, too much traction in sand, horrible in the snow. Steering and handling…well, what steering and handling??? They are very heavy and have a tendacy to either spin too much due to poor traction or not enough due to the wieght from a stop/ under load. Everthing is relative, of course; and, I’m not saying it is a bad tire…they just don’t suit me at all….they were smooth riding tires, but not as smooth as the ATRs.

Of all the tires I have had and all the others I have ridden other peoples rhinos…for my money…. the best of the best are the Holeshots. They cut easy and don’t last; but, performance wise they are like no other. Steering and handling is unsurpassed in my experience. They are second rate in the sand due to a little too much traction. But, I think they are better than mudlites in the sand. Traction/ hook-up are superb and that includes smooth wet rocks. No real mud experince…very good in the snow/slush. Smoothest riding and best handling tires I have ever ridden on a rhino period.

I have not put many miles on the All Trails yet (about 120 miles). They are awesome on pavement…lots of fun…slide in turns really well and steering is real quick…on hard pack the traction isn’t quite adequate compared the the ATRs…but then nothing is…steering is scary quick on hardpack whick makes me think I should have gotten the 10″ wide for the front as well…traction is good on rocks…My impression is they are tougher than holeshots…not sure…holeshots are 6pr radials and all trails are 4 pr bias. The tread pattern on the All Trails offers a great deal of protection and the sidewalls are really stiff. The bead seat is very impressive…I run them at 5 psi even on the street and they love it…I am hoping they do really well in sand…I had similiar tires on my lifted golf cart and they were great in sand…I wouldn’t expect much in mud and they are short at 24.5″ tall you would like more…I think they should make these in a 25.5-26.0 tall tire and 1″ wider. I bought them mostly for pavement (very happy) and hopeful for sand…we shall see.

I have put a bunch of miles on the C-6 “rock crusher” rims. Literally on the rims crushing rocks…those wheels are still in use and still hold air perfectly despite being gouged and bent…one ride was over 20 miles on a shredded ATR…once I got onto a dirt road I had to go about 4 miles and did it at over 20 mph the whole way…that was after about 17 miles through the desert on rocky hardpack….the tire never came off the bead…another ride I put about 3 miles on the rim of another shredded holeshot on a rocky, slushy, snow covered two track trail in the desert mountains…again…I took it a bit easy…but, did not hesitate to drive it like it had four good tires…tire never came off the bead…I am sold…I will stick with the C-6 rims.

My next set of tires will likely be 26″ ITP Holeshot ATRs filled with multi-seal. Wink

LR3 MISC

Ran the intake throught the hump in florr with 2″thin wall pvc (not sch40) it has a inside diameter if 2 5/16″ I came out of the bottom of the air box where the drain is located (not the front) screwed in my connector piece, hooked in a 90 and went straight through the firewall hole 90′d again and went up towards the hood, I then 45′d towards the dash added a small piece of pipe and 45′d it straight up till I got it where I wanted it, it finally ends right underneath the little hump on the hood right behind the speedo. Stock setup was a Dynojet kit with a 155 main jet and A/F 1 1/2 turns out. After doing this mod I had to go to a 170 main and 2 turns on the A/F mixture srew and moved to the next notch down on the needle to richen it up because it gets alot more air. I also gained 3mph top end went from 54 to 57mph on flat ground. But best of all there is no more INTAKE NOISE!!!! and it seems to run great.I left my K&N in the airbox with no filter on the end of the pipe.
I think coming through the bottom of the air box is alot better than coming out the front because if you come through the front the first thing that the air is going to hit is the back of the air filter which is solid and there isnt much room from the back of the filter to the front of the airbox for air to move. But by coming through the bottom the first thing air hits is the filter and has a lot more room for air to come in the box.I am wondering if this may be the reason some people are having problems getting theirs to run right and just give up and go back to the stock setup? The way I done it wasn’t that hard at all and actually gained more from it than the quietness of the intake.I did block up the original intake hole also.Wil try and get some pics taken soon I already got everything back on it for a big ride this weekend. Oh yeah the reason I brought it back to the top of the hood is I plan to cut a hole through the hood so when I go deep creek riding I can add a piece of pipe and a 90 to go above the hood so water doesnt get in it. Sch40 2″ should be about the same.
Heres some pics http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=550896498&ran=19119

LR3 MISC

Gcan, havent been on here in a week due to a family death but have fixed my stumble right off idle when I floor it like the problem you are having and here is what I have got now. I first thought I was lean off idle so I put a bigger pilot jet in and it got worse. So I was wrong on the lean part, It was actually to rich off idle. So then I moved the clip on the needle to the leanest position (top groove) and it completely went away no problems whatsoever even after running it for awhile and shuting it off and restarting it, it ran perfect. I was kind of worried about it running to lean all the way to top end after moving the needle. So I tried something else, I put the clip back in the second groove but then turned my A/F mixture screw all the way in and then backed it out 1 turn instead of 1 1/2 like I did have it, and again it ran perfect no missing or stumbling and ran strong all the way to 57 mph. My carb is now 170 main jet,needle in 2nd groove, Air/fuel mixture screw at 1 turn out and stock pilot jet-40. I have always had the original intake blocked off with the lid off a spray paint can and sealed it, and run with the filter in the airbox, I did not have to stretch my spring or anything else.And thanks to everyone who helped me on my original post!!!

LR3 MISC

I ran a second port from the front of the airbox to under the hood, sealed the hole in the scoop, and placed a dry, uni 2-stg hi-flo prefilter over the original opening in the airbox. Working fabulously.

I think I am going to order some of that stuff from summit…thanks for the link Butters.

Get rid off cab noise and the exhaust is barely noticealbe imo.

LR3 MISC

I’ve gotten rid of the intake noise by closing off the stock intake, even closed off the hole in the top shroud to lessen engine noise. I cut a hole in the front (not bottom) of the air box, glued in a rigid shop vac 45, then connected a shop vac hose and routed it under the hump, and over the top of the radiator just behind the black grill in the hood.

According to the digital speedo, I was getting 54 mph before re-routing the intake, now I’m topping out at 52 on pavement. I didn’t lose any low end, might have even gained some. Mid-range no loss, just top-end.

Also…to let you know my setup. I had already rejetted before re-routing the intake with a Grizzly Dynojet to a DJ 160 (= to Mikuni 150), 4th clip on the needle. I’m going to order a DJ 165 and 170 and see if I can get a little back on the top end. Also, I do have a Hauck sheave, CDI, “power tip” to open up stock exhaust a little, and running 26 Mud Lites.

Bottom line…still runs great with no intake noise whatsoever.

I’ve been experimenting with automobile mufflers and think I’ve found one that reduces exhaust noise by about 50% for $28. That’s by holding it up to my exhaust and having the wife rev it up. I have someone fabbing up a connector for me right now, I should have it done sometime next week. It will connect to the stock exhaust. I plan to use it during hunting season, and go back with the stock downturn afterwards.

—–

snorkle the intake, add a flowmaster 12″ resonator to the end of the exhaust. You will love it, and it will still have plenty of power.

—–

I ran a second port from the front of the airbox to under the hood, sealed the hole in the scoop, and placed a dry, uni 2-stg hi-flo prefilter over the original opening in the airbox. Working fabulously.

I think I am going to order some of that stuff from summit…thanks for the link Butters.

Get rid off cab noise and the exhaust is barely noticealbe imo.

LR3 MISC

I’ve gotten rid of the intake noise by closing off the stock intake, even closed off the hole in the top shroud to lessen engine noise. I cut a hole in the front (not bottom) of the air box, glued in a rigid shop vac 45, then connected a shop vac hose and routed it under the hump, and over the top of the radiator just behind the black grill in the hood.

According to the digital speedo, I was getting 54 mph before re-routing the intake, now I’m topping out at 52 on pavement. I didn’t lose any low end, might have even gained some. Mid-range no loss, just top-end.

Also…to let you know my setup. I had already rejetted before re-routing the intake with a Grizzly Dynojet to a DJ 160 (= to Mikuni 150), 4th clip on the needle. I’m going to order a DJ 165 and 170 and see if I can get a little back on the top end. Also, I do have a Hauck sheave, CDI, “power tip” to open up stock exhaust a little, and running 26 Mud Lites.

Bottom line…still runs great with no intake noise whatsoever.

LR3 MISC

Info on Speed Bleeders for the DII:

The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:

Front….SB1010S
Rear…..SB1010S
Clutch…

When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the “Bleeder / Bag Combo”.
It will make bleeding your brakes even easier. It consists of a 30 inch length of silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a bleeder bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals.
Attach one end of the hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. Open the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel cylinder. The fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary mess.
Speed Bleeder can be ordered at http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com

LR3 MISC

From Discoweb:

I spoke with my mechanic (LR master mechanic). He suggested the following:

First off, even though the brake system has been bled, the ABS
modulator sometimes need to be bled through the scan tool (I have the
Rovacom unit).
Secondly, I’d do what they call an ABS bleed that uses the ABS pump
to pressurize the system while bleeding.

———–

Went to Jeff at JCROVER4×4 here in Denver. We did the ABS modulator bleed and the pressurize system bleed and seems to have fixed my pedal travel issue. Even though I’ve bled the system before it was the power bleed of the ABS modulator using the Scan tool that seems to have taken care of it.

LR3 MISC

Thanks to Chris Hyde and MuddyOval.com for this tip!

1. Start with engine cold, cover any concerning parts and spray heavily with purple degreaser.

2. Let degreaser sit for 10 minutes and pressure wash.

3. Start engine, let run until it evaporates all excess water.

4. Spray “Black Magic” tire shine all over engine bay and let sit for 1 hour+.

5. Using low pressure water hose, spray engine bay down to remove excess Black Magic…..wala!

LR3 MISC

Regarding the TJM bumper question, I have the TJM 15 and love it. I choose
it for its dimension qualities (ground clearance, heavy tube stock) and the fact that it doesn’t rotate upwards under stress. I considered the 17 for its cleaner lines, but I have come to realize I would have incurred much
more damage over time without the brush bar provision.

LR3 MISC

779 and 777 are exactly the same spring rate. The 779 is just a
longer version of the 777.

So if you find the 779 stiff, the 777 won’t be much good either. But
add some weight to the front, e.g. bull bar and/or winch, and it’ll be
just dandy. I run the 777 with the bullbar and it was not high enough
for me so I switched to the 779….

LR3 MISC

This question was asked in the August 2004 issue of Land Rover Owner….

“Q: The brake pedal travel on my 2001 Discovery Series II is so long I lose my confidence in stopping the vehicle safely. The brakes were fine when I bought the vehicle brand new, and to date it has covered 9000 miles. They started to fade at 4000 miles, so I took the Discovery to the dealership and they replaced the master cylinder. But the brake pedal distance increased so the dealer replaced the master cylinder yet again. Finally, a mechanic who services my trucks, suggested fitting new, thicker brake pads, and this was an improvement for the last 3000 miles. But now the pedal, again, seems to travel too close to the floor for my liking. I understand that this brake concern was fixed on the new 2003 Discovery.”

“A: Most SII Discoverys do not experience this problem, though we have come across it on Discoverys that are driven quickly. It’s due to the seals on the front brake caliper pistons-improved seals were used on the 03 model. The later seals cannot be used in the earlier caliper. The 03 model has new calipers, part no SEG000030 and SEG000060, though the carriers for the calipers retain the same part numbers for the earlier model.”

LR3 MISC

I used to have the same problem with the original LR rotors and the original brake lines. The Discovery just wouldn’t stop and you could feel the brake pads not gripping. I changed both front and rear rotors to DBA slotted and crossdrilled rotors, the brake lines to stainless steel braided brake lines and I used Lockheed aftermarket brake pads. With that setup, my braking power has improved 100%. You will lock the wheels on 30mph on dry pavement and you don’t get the soft brake pedal feel anymore.

LR3 MISC

Get a motive power bleeder. Worth every penny. You will need the universal adapter. British pacific and others carry them and know the right connector. It will save you air in the lines and turn bleeding into a single person operation.

————————

The first time I used the motive, the damn lid popped off the brake fluid reservoir and dumped close to a quart of brake fluid on the ground while I was under the truck turning the bleed screws.

The threads on the reservoir did not engage enough woth the lid of the bleeder to hold under pressure.

A fix that worked for me was to wrap a bunch of layers of teflon tape around the reservoir threads.

————————

One other thing, I don’t think that bleeder comes with a gasket, so pull the one off the master cylinder cap and throw it onto the bleeder. Also you don’t need to tighten it too much. It’ll crossthread and not hold pressure. So just make sure you get a good seal. Oh yeah, another trick is to turn the cap of the bleeder about 4 or 5 times before you get it onto the master cylinder so the tube isn’t all twisted when you get it on. You’ll figure out what i’m talking about. Other than that, don’t wait too long to undo the pressure after you close that last bleeder. What I usually do is just before you are finished release the pressure out of the bleeder and let gravity take some of the brake fluid go down in the master cylinder so it’s not overflowing. Then go back and close that last bleeder.

LR3 MISC

Don’t make it so hard, do a gravity bleed, staring at the right rear and open the bleed valve allowing it to drip until clear fluid comes thru, then go to the next wheel.
Make sure you keep the resevor full of clean fluid all the while.
Mike J.

LR3 MISC

EBC dimpled and grooved all around for me. I also used their green SUV pads and the Pig’s brakes are very quiet and kick out less brake dust. I ordered the complete set from AB which cost a total of $600, which included shipping to my house. AB had the stuff in stock and I got it two days later.

When you remove the alignment screw, be sure to use a #4 posi-drive bit. This will make life easier.

LR3 MISC

This post is where I will document Service and Modifications related to my ‘01 Discovery II.

Click here for current modification list.

More picures here.

LR3 MISC

The OEM CDL kit replaces the existing D2 Transfer Box gear selector mechanism with one with an additional cable run to the top of the transfer box mechanism, where it engages the CDL spigot. You need a gearbox with a spigot to begin with, otherwise it’s a non-starter. Please ensure your vehicle is suitable, please read the information above to find out whether your gearbox is suitable, and what to order if it isn’t.

You’ll also need a nylock nut, an M8; a washer to match; and 13 rivets - I used 4.7×17mm pop rivets.

Apart from the usual hand tools, you may also need something which will cut laminated steel plate, and you’ll need a drill, and of course a rivet gun.

1) Unclip the gearstick gaiters. Unscrew both gearknobs. Remove the top half of the main gearstick by removing the bolt at the join completely and sliding off.

2) Remove the rubber cover from the gearstick area. Unclip the handbrake gaiter from the top, and peel it forwards. Remove the plastic fascia around the window switches and unscrew the switchplate. Twist it and push it into the console.

3) Remove the pin which connects the handbrake to the handbrake cable. Remove 2 screws from inside the cubby box, and 2 screws from just in front of the transfer box lever. You can now start to lift the whole binnacle out. As you do so, disconnect the cigarette lighter connection from underneath, and remove the bulb holder.

4) Lift out the foam around the gear lever area. Unscrew the bracket at the front of the area. Peel the carpet back and drill out the 13 or 14 rivets (depending on which plate you have) from the steel plate around the gear levers. Remove this upwards through the console.

5) Unscrew the existing Transfer Box shift mechanism from the steel plate. Match the plate up to the new mechanism. Depending on your plate, you may need to enlarge the aperture for the gearstick. This can be done by chain drilling and/or sawing. Leave the new mechanism separate for now.

6) Look down into the large hole you’ve just opened up, to find the CDL spigot on the top of the transfer box. It’s about a foot down, and is a threaded shaft with an oval profile at the base, in the middle of a triangle of three bolts. Undo the frontmost and left-hand bolts of the three.

7) Take the lever end of the new mechanism and force it down towards the CDL spigot. The mounting bracket will attach to the top of the transfer box using the two bolts you just removed. Screw these bolts in loosely. The tail of the cable should be running forwards.

8 ) Match up the keyed loop at the end of the cable to the CDL spigot. Make sure you have it the right way up Using your M8 Nylock nut, and a washer, bolt it down to the spigot.

9) Clunk the new gearstick from side to side to see if the mechanism engages. If you do this with the ignition on, you can see the CDL light lighting up when it’s engaged. If it needs adjusting, you can adjust the two nuts either side of the mounting bracket, on the cable which is now mounted to the top of the transfer box casing. Make sure these are tight before you go any further.

10) Line up the new lever with roughly the space it’s going to go in when you bolt the whole lot back together. You may have to do some shoving to get it in place, as the new cable will get in the way. Put the steel plate back into its hole and get a couple of rivets in to hold it in place. Force the new gearstick into its rightful place and bolt it back to the plate.

11) Rivet the plate back in. You’ll only be able to get 13 rivets in, as the front right rivet will be blocked off by the new cable mechanism. After that, refitting is the reverse of removal.

To finish off the job…

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one…) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

LR3 MISC

Discovery Harness:

Grn/Red - Left Turn
Grn/Wht - Right Turn
Red/Blk - Running Lamps
Red - Running Lights
Grn/Brn - Bacup Lights
Blk - Ground
Grn/Vio - Brake Lights

5-Wire connector

WHT - GND
BRN -Running Lamps
YEL - Left Turn
GRN - Right Turn
BLU - Reverse

LR3 MISC

The 94 - 96 Discovery and 1994 - 1995 RR Classic share a similar perimetric alarm system that was modified in 1995 and again in 1996. The basic perimetric alarm system provides protection in conjunction with the opening of the hood, tailgate or doors. This security system will be separated into different sections to assist in the explanation of this system.

Components

- ECU - The 1994 RR Classic security ECU is attached to the steering column support, all other security ECUs are located at the right lower dash.
- CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING (CDL)
The security ECU incorporates the CDL function including the CDL inertia switch. If an impact occurs the inertia switch unlocks the doors and turns on the hazard flashers. The flashers can be canceled by turning the ignition switch off for 30 seconds .
- Siren - The vehicle horn is used for the system sounder/siren.
- Relays - Three relays are used in the system; one for lamp flash, one for horn operation and one for interior lamp illumination during system disarming feature.
- Door Locks - Door locks incorporate switches indicating key lock and sill button operation.
- Antenna - The antenna is located in the “A” post and is routed to the instrument cluster. *
- Remotes - Two hand held remotes are supplied with each vehicle.

System Function

- Arming - The system can be armed (and the doors/tailgate locked) via the remote or by the key. To indicate

* 1994 Classic antenna located in front of instrument cluster

successful arming, the following occurs: hazard lamps flash three times, fascia mounted LED flashes rapidly for 10 seconds , then continues to flash at a slower rate (1 flash/second) .

- Disarming - The system can be disarmed via the remote or door locks. On system disarm, the hazards flash once and the fascia mounted LED stops flashing. A relay will trip the interior lamp delay (ILD) unit causing the interior lamps to illuminate.
- System Override - If the door key is held in the locked position for a period of 5 - 8 seconds the vehicle will lock but the security system will not arm.
- Mislock - If any of the doors or the hood is left open once the alarm system is armed, the hazard warning lights will fail to flash, and the anti-theft indicator light will not illuminate until 10 seconds have elapsed. This indicates ‘mislock’ condition. If an open door or hood is subsequently closed, the doors will unlock (after a 5 second delay) and immediately lock again. The alarm is then armed as normal.
- Automatic Re-Locking - If the system detects a mislock condition (i.e. (,ne door unlocked) on system arming, a short delay will occur about 5 seconds then a CDL unlock signal will be issued by the security ECU followed by a CDL lock signal which will re-lock all doors and the tailgate. In the example above, if the doors were subsequently closed all doors would unlock, a short delay would occur, then an unlock signal would be sent followed by a lock signal. All doors would then be locked.
- Low Remote Battery Indicator - A counter in the remote, tracks remote activity. (Estimated usage for one year), the hazard lamps will flash once on system arming, indicating remote battery replacement is required. To reset the remote, remove the battery, push the button and replace battery.
- Power-Up Memory - The system always remembers what state it was last in, even if the battery is disconnected. When reconnecting a battery, realize that the system could be armed and could re-lock.

Transmitter Code Learning Must Be Performed if ECU/Remote is Replaced

* The transmitter learning sequence is best carried out by two persons, in the following order. Hood open with one person holding the hood alarm switch pressed down. The hood alarm switch is located next to the windshield washer reservoir.

Access the learn mode by performing the following steps in sequence, a through e, within 8 seconds .

Ignition off, driver’s door lock button up,, assistant depressing hood alarm switch.

Turn ignition on, then off.

Depress and raise driver’s door lock button.

Assistant release hood alarm switch.

Turn ignition on, then off.

If the learn mode has been correctly programed, the LED will now light, and the horn will sound for 100 milliseconds . If this does not occur, restart at Step 1a. * 94 - 95 Systems - 96 Discovery uses TestBook

Press and hold button on the first remote. The LED on the remote will light and then extinguish after approximately 3 seconds .

The vehicle LED should now flash at 8 cycles per second for a period of one second , then remain on steady. This signifies that the first code has been received correctly and the unit is awaiting another code. If the LED does not perform as above, restart the procedure at Step 1a.
Press and hold the button to the second remote. The LED on the remote will light and then extinguish after approximately 3 seconds .

The vehicle LED should now flash at 8 cycles per second for a period of 1 second , then go off. This signifies that the second code has been received correctly, and the learn sequence has been terminated. If the LED does not perform as above, restart the procedure at Step 1a. NOTE: The sequence can be terminated at any time by turning on the ignition. The ECU is capable of storing two remote transmitter codes and the codes of both remotes must be learned during the same sequence.

Security System Modifications

1995 System Changes Are As Follows :

Starter motor inhibit if the doors, hood or tailgate are open after the system has been armed, the alarm will sound and the electrical circuit between the starter motor and ignition key will be disabled (starter relay).
Interior light feature will illuminate for 15 seconds or until the ignition switch is turned, whenever the alarm system is deactivated using the remote handset.
1996 Discovery Security System Changes Are As Follows :

New ECU - same location.
Antenna wire not coax cable - new location, not in “A” pillar, now in front of instrument cluster.
Different remote handset - 2 button (lock/unlock) instead of one.
Rolling code for security between ECU and remote handset.
NOTE: Code can be lost if battery discharges or is disconnected in vehicle or remote handset or remote pushed too many times beyond remote range.

Handset must be re-synchronized: The vehicle must be unlocked before resynchronizing handset. To resynchronize remote handset, push remote button 4 times within range of security system.
Crank inhibit and GEMS Immobilization (had crank inhibit-1995 system) communication code between GEMS-ECU and SECURITY ECU. If either ECU is replaced. Communication code will have to be reset using TestBook (new security cable J1962) connector.
Remote handset learning can only be performed using TestBook.
Can program up to 4 remote handsets (2 from parts) at the same time. Two remote handsets programmable 1994 - 1995.
Now the remote handset low battery warning is the loss of 4-way lamp flash on disarm.
1997 Update

Antenna wire located at alarm ECU.
Internal ECU and antenna mod to increase remote working distance.

LR3 MISC

We have R380 G/box & T/box for a Discovery for £400 + VAT
All parts are guarenteed and we can deliver. Contact us for more details:
Tel: (0) 1902 882 883 sales@equicar4×4.co.uk http://www.equicar.co.uk

LR3 MISC

Kevin from MuddyOval.com sent me this list of the Trails that are to be used in the 2005 National Land Rover Rally near Leadville,CO this July. Go here for all the info and to register.

Trail List for 2005 Solihull Society Rally

Chalk Creek – FR134 off HWY 91
Fooses Creek – FR225 off HWY 50 near Monarch Pass
Grizzly Lake – FR280 off FR295 near St. Elmo
Hagerman Pass – FR105
Holy Cross – FR759 off FR703
Iron Chest Mine - Off FR295 near St. Elmo
Iron Mike Mine (South Halfmoon) – FR3A off FR110
Jenny June Mine (East Tennessee) – FR102 off Lake County Rd 18
Lilly Lake – FR131 off FR100
McAllister Gulch – FR708 from Camp Hale
Mining District – Loop through area east and south of Leadville
Mount Antero – FR278 off FR211
Mount Princeton – 322 Rd from Mount Princton Hot Springs
Mount Zion – Mount Zion Road off HWY 24
Mosquito Pass – FR438
No Name Gulch – off Mount Zion Rd
Pomeroy Lake – FR274 off FR 295 near St. Elmo
Ptarmigan Pass – FR702 from Camp Hale
Red Cone – FR565 between Webster & Montezuma
Seven Mile – FR311, 376 & 375 between Antero Junction and Buena Vista
Slide Lake – FR145 off FR100
Weston Pass – FR 425 off Lake County Rd 7
Wurts Ditch – FR100 off Lake County Rd 19

LR3 MISC

“Have love will travel” by the Sonics.

LR3 MISC

What do you have in your rear storage compartment? A Jack? A Subwoofer?

Well I now have a complete Auxiliary Battery system to power several constant running accessories I have added to the Freelander. I now have an Engel Fridge/Freezer, 2 Motorola Two-Way radios, and a Garmin GPS that are left on for both necessity and convenience reasons. This would put to much stress on the starting battery if left on for many hours with out the engine running (as they are) so an auxiliary battery system was the answer.

The Batteries are 12V 18AH wired in parallel to give 12V and 36Ah capacity. They are connected to the main battery and charging system by a #8 wire with fuses and a 60A rated Automatic Charge Relay.

In the overview picture you can see the Two-Way radios on the left and the two batteries on the right. The fuse block is visible on the top left and the charge guard is on top of the left battery. The “Charge Guard” protects the batteries for over discharge and the radios from over voltage. Here is a diagram of the system.

LR3 MISC

16×7, Bolt Pattern 5×114.3, Offset 42

Acura CL 2001 - 2003
Acura Integra Type R 1997 - 2001
Acura Legend 1991 - 1995
Acura RL 3.5 1996 - 2004
Acura RSX 2002 - NOW
Acura TL 3.2 1996 - 1998
Acura TL 3.2 1999 - 2003
Chrysler 300M 1998 - 2004
Chrysler Concorde 1993 - 2004
Chrysler LHS 1994 - 2004
Chrysler New Yorker 1994 - 1999
Chrysler Sebring Coupe 1995 - 2002
Chrysler Sebring Coupe 2003 - NOW
Chrysler Town and Country 1990 - NOW
Daewoo Leganza 1999 - 2002
Dodge Avenger 1995 - 2000
Dodge Caravan 6 cyl. 1996 - NOW
Dodge Grand Caravan 1988 - 1995
Dodge Intrepid 1993 - 2004
Dodge Stratus Coupe 1995 - NOW
Eagle Talon 1989 - 1998
Eagle Vision 1993 - 1996
Ford Crown Victoria 2003 - NOW
Ford Freestar 2004 - NOW
Ford Mustang 2005 - NOW
Ford Probe 1989 - 1997
Honda Accord 2003 - NOW
Honda Accord V6 1998 - 2002
Honda Element 2003 - NOW
Honda Odyssey 1998 - 1998
Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2001
Honda Odyssey 2002 - 2004
Honda Odyssey 2005 - NOW
Honda Pilot 2002 - NOW
Hyundai Santa Fe 2001 - NOW
Hyundai Tiburon 2003 - NOW
Hyundai Tucson 2005 - NOW
Hyundai XG300 2001 - 2001
Hyundai XG350 2002 - NOW
Infiniti G35 Sedan 2002 - 2004
Infiniti I30 1996 - 2001
Infiniti I35 2002 - NOW
Infiniti J30 1992 - 1997
Infiniti Q45 1990 - 1997
Infiniti Q45 1998 - 2001
Kia Amanti 2004 - NOW
Kia Sedona 2002 - NOW
Land Rover Freelander 2002 - NOW
Lexus ES 300 1991 - 2003
Lexus ES 330 2004 - NOW
Lexus GS 300 1993 - 2001
Lexus GS 400 1993 - 2001
Lexus GS 430 2002 - NOW
Lexus IS 300 2001 - NOW
Lexus IS 300 SportCross 2002 - NOW
Lexus LS 400 1990 - 1992
Lexus SC 300 1995 - 2001
Lexus SC 400 1992 - 2001
Lincoln TownCar 2003 - NOW
Mazda 626 1988 - 2002
Mazda 929 1988 - 1991
Mazda 929 1992 - 1995
Mazda Mazda 3 2004 - NOW
Mazda Mazda 6 2003 - NOW
Mazda Millennia 1995 - 2002
Mazda MPV 2000 - 2003
Mazda MPV 2004 - NOW
Mazda MPV - VAN 2WD 1989 - 1999
Mazda MX-6 1988 - 1997
Mazda Protege 5 2002 - 2003
Mazda RX-7 1986 - 1992
Mercury Grand Marquis 2003 - NOW
Mitsubishi Diamante 1991 - 2000
Mitsubishi Diamante 2001 - NOW
Mitsubishi Eclipse 1989 - 1999
Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 - NOW
Mitsubishi Galant 2004 - NOW
Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart 2004 - NOW
Mitsubishi Outlander 2003 - NOW
Nissan 240SX SE 1995 - 1998
Nissan Altima 2001 - NOW
Nissan Maxima 1989 - 2003
Nissan Quest 1993 - NOW
Plymouth Grand Voyager 1988 - 2004
Plymouth Laser 1989 - 2004
Plymouth Voyager 6 cyl. 1996 - 2004
Saturn VUE 2002 - NOW
Toyota Avalon 1995 - 2004
Toyota Camry 1992 - NOW
Toyota Camry SE, XLE 2002 - NOW
Toyota Cressida 1989 - 1992
Toyota MR-2 1991 - 1995
Toyota Previa All Trac 1990 - 1997
Toyota Previa LE 1990 - 1997
Toyota RAV4 1996 - NOW
Toyota Sienna 1998 - 2003
Toyota Sienna FWD 2004 - NOW
Toyota Solara 1999 - 2003
Toyota Solara 2004 - NOW
Toyota Supra 1986 - 1992
Toyota Tacoma 2WD 1995 - 2000
Toyota Tacoma 2WD 2001 - 2004

LR3 MISC

RRC/D1/D90/D110 are 5×6.5

LR3 MISC

Since I wanted to keep my Freelanders 17″ stock wheels I had a limited choice of tires suitable for off road use. The Pirelli Scorpion AT’s were about the only choice and after reading a few positive reviews decided to get a set.

My first impression with them was positive as they performed well on a couple of trips though various terrain of dirt and rocks in the Sierra Nevada mountains last Summer. When winter arrived and trips to the mountains in the snow were a norm, I was very impressed with the Scorpions handling of Snow and Ice. They were superb in the fresh Snow and reasonable on the semi-frozen slush.

Now with all this praise comes a negative side. The last few trips to Nevada and NorCal have exposed the weakness of these tires, there sidewalls. On one trip in Nevada I scraped a rock on the side of a trail and “POW” a sidewall blow out! The tire was not repairable and of course not covered under Warranty. I purchased a replacement tire and chalked it up to a bad line by the driver (me) as to the reason for the blow out.

On the latest trek to Nor Cal and the Peligreen J**p Trail after the day was done I noticed a deep gash in the sidewall of the left front tire. Making a close inspection I found the gash was all the way down to the cord. Not good, I didn’t want to travel around at Freeway speeds with a 2″ gash in my sidewall so I swapped the bad tire with the new spare I just purchased a few months ago.

This makes two sidewall failures in about 6 months, not a good failure rate in my opinion and the reason I can’t recommend these tires to anyone doing any serious off roading. They are great for what I would say is normal driving on and off road, but I would look elsewhere for a tire with stronger sidewalls if you are planning on any rough trails especially if you are in rocky terrain like we find here in NorCal and Nevada.

I am now planning on getting some steel 16″ wheels and a tire with a strong side wall that can handle the sharp rocks and other hazards that we encounter on our treks.

LR3 MISC

Remove right front wheel to access the fender well. Open hood.

1.

Remove the 6mm bolt securing bottom of fender well.
2.

Remove enough retainers from fender well (pull center of retainer out) to partially remove the fender well.
3.

Pull open fender well to access behind it. While holding antenna on the inside with pliers or vise grips, remove the nut on the outside that holds the antenna to the fender. (May take two people).
4.

Follow the antenna lead starting at the antenna, find and displace the grommet that goes into the engine compartment.
5.

Under the hood, find the lead and follow it to the firewall. (You may have to remove the cover off the engine control unit and remove the control unit to access). Loosen the grommet where it goes thru the firewall.
6.

Go inside the car and open the glove box, remove contents and find the stops. Lift the stops up (this requires a bit of effort, as they are spring loaded) until you can get them through the slots in the dash, so the glove box can be dropped out of the way.
7.

Find the antenna lead behind the glove box, follow it to a connection in the lead from the car making sure it doesn’t get caught on any components inside the dash.
8.

Pull the lead thru the fender well and remove the antenna and lead thru the fender. You may need help to hold the fender well open so you can remove the lead.
9.

Install the new antenna on the fender, hold straight and tighten. (You may need help to hold and tighten).
10.

Route the cable back through the fender well into the engine compartment and back into the car. You may need to remove the under dash panel to find the cable. Feed it back to the connection behind the glove box and connect.
11.

Reinstall glove box under dash panel (if removed) and other components that you may have removed.
12.

Note: If you don’t need to save the antenna you can cut the cable for removal.
13.

Make sure you install the two grommets on the cable in their proper holes.

AM/FM Power Antenna (Part# 9124)

This antenna is designed for optimum performance for either AM or FM bands. The antenna is raised or lowered by operating the radio on/off switch. Prior to installing the antenna, read the entire installation instructions.

Replacement of existing power antenna, removing old antenna:

Gain access to the underside of the fender area through the fender, splash panel.

Remove mounting bracket, drain tube, electrical wire and antenna coaxial cable. When removing electrical wires and coaxial cable from the antenna, follow to the closest connector and disconnect. DO NOT CUT COAXIAL CABLE.

Disassemble the mounting base, and save the parts, they may be used with the installation of the new antenna.

Remove old antenna from below fender.

To avoid cutting car wiring, you may want to cut the connector off of the old antenna removed from the car, attaching the new antenna wiring to the old connector wires and directly plug into car wiring.

New antenna installation:

For first time antenna installations:

Use original factory hole or select a location on the front or back fender of car for mounting antenna. In selecting the location, make sure the underside of the fender is free of any obstructions such as weld beads, braces, gussets and sub-fender. The 2 ¾”/70mm bushing allows for use with sub-fenders. Also, be sure that sufficient clearance is available under fender to house antenna, approximately 13”/33cm.

Remove the mounting base from new antenna.

Drill a 1/8”/3mm pilot hole. Then enlarge with a hole saw or drill bit to 5/8”/16mm.

Remove all burrs, paint, road dirt or under coating from around the underside of the hole.

When installing antenna select the proper angle base, spacer and retainer base or reuse original mounting base previously removed from the old antenna.

Custom mounting base may be available from your dealer.

Install the antenna from the underside of the fender. Be sure the retainer rests evenly on the under side of the fender to alleviate any possible damage to the vehicle. Install the gasket, base and nut, finger tighten nut. Align the mast vertically by slightly tightening the antenna-mounting nut while adjusting the mast to be vertical.

To prevent movement and maintain the desired angle, secure the bottom of the motor assembly with the supplied perforated strap. Holes are provided with the strap to accommodate various mounting positions. It may be necessary to bend the strap to conform to the fit of the antenna and car. Be sure the antenna retainer is grounded to the underside of the fender and the black ground wire is grounded properly to the vehicle chassis. If the retainer and ground wire are not properly grounded, the antenna will not work.

With the bottom of the antenna motor assembly secured, the mast at the desired angle and the retainer resting evenly on the underside of the fender, tighten the mounting nut firmly to secure the entire antenna assembly. Do not tighten the nut excessively as this may strip or break the mounting threads or damage contact spring and cause improper antenna operation.

Attach the drain tube to the bottom of motor assembly and route to the outside of the car. Avoid any kinks or bends in the tube that may restrict drainage. (See diagram 1).

For new antenna installation

Route electrical wiring and coaxial cable into the dash area of the vehicle interior, as shown in diagram 2. A 5/8” (16mm) hole may be require in the interior panel when routing wire from front fender. If possible, avoid routing coaxial cable into engine compartment. The electrical noise found in this area may be transmitted into the antenna wiring.

Antenna wiring for first time antenna installation

Radios with switched antenna wire

Connect blue wire from antenna to the switched antenna wire from radio (normally blue) as shown in diagram 2. Connect coaxial cable from antenna to radio. We recommend a qualified technician, such as an Installer Institute graduate to make the radio modification found in diagram 4, figure B.

Radios without switched antenna wire

Remove radio from car and remove radio top or back cover to gain access to radio volume control/power switch. Solder wire as shown in diagram 3. Reassemble radio top or back cover. Then reinstall radio in vehicle. Connect the new wire from the radio to the green wire from the antenna. Connect coaxial cable from antenna to radio.

The red power wire from antenna can be connected at fuse block, (as shown in diagram 2), battery, or hot side of ignition switch or any other + 12 volt “constant on” location.

Antenna trimmer adjustment (for non-digital radios)

With antenna fully extended and radio turned to a weak AM station around 1400KHz, tune trimmer with screwdriver for maximum volume. See radio owner’s manual for location of antenna trimmer. Digital radios do not require trimming.

Mast replacement

Part number 44-PWR64 Chrome mast

Upgrade – 44-PWR64B Black Mast & nut
Upgrade – 44-PWR64G Gold Mast & nut

Remove antenna mounting nut (Diagram 4, figure A).

To remove mast, turn radio switch on to raise antenna. Remove mast, serrated plastic cable and contact spring. Save and clean contact spring for re-use.

Note which side of antenna serrated cable is facing. (Diagram4, figure B).

Insert serrated cable of new mast into the housing and stop when resistance is felt, approximately 12”. The serrated side of cable must duplicate original direction.

Turn radio switch off to lower antenna until serrated cable catches. It may be necessary to cycle antenna several times (by turning radio switch on and off) until cable catches the gear mechanism and retracts. (Diagram 4, figure C).

Reinstall mast into housing and place contact spring onto mast with flanged end up. (Diagram 4, figure D).

Reinstall antenna-mounting nut and tighten.

The mast may only retract or extend halfway. Cycle several times (by turning radio switch on and off) until the mast fully extends and retracts.

LR3 MISC

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY

Discovery 1 (1994 – mid 1999)

Land Rovers - DiscoveryThe ever-popular Discovery model was introduced here in the States in 1994. They are easily distinguished by the unusual raised roof with alpine windows and roof rack. And, the top of the taillight aligns with the top of the license plate lamp.

Discovery I Vehicle Identification Numbers (V.I.N. #): SALJY128*RA** - 1994 manual SALJY124*RA** - 1994 auto SALJY128*SA** - 1995 manual SALJY124*SA** - 1995 auto SALJY128*TA** - 1996 manual SALJY124*TA** - 1996 auto SALJY128*VA** - 1997 manual SALJY124*VA** - 1997 auto SALJY128*WA** - 1998 manual SALJY124*WA** - 1998 auto SALJY124*XA** - 1999 auto

Discovery I Gearbox:

(1994-99) R380 manual 53A00001 5 spd.; ZF 4-spd. (no prefix) auto.

Discovery I Transfer Case: Land Rovers - Discovery

(1994-99) LT230T 28D00001

Discovery I Engine Identification: Displ. Number Comp. Ratio App. Years 3.9 35D 9.35:1 1994 manual 3.9 36D 9.35:1 1994 auto 3.9 35D 9.35:1 1995 manual 3.9 36D 9.35:1 1995 auto 4.0 50D 9.35:1 1996 manual 4.0 50D 9.35:1 1996-99 auto

When Shopping On-line look for the Model code of D1 for parts that will fit your vehicle.

Discovery Series II (mid 1999 - Present)

Land Rover Discovery Series IIDiscovery Series II made its debut mid 1999. Although 85% of the Series II is different from its predecessor, the differences are very subtle from the outside. The most obvious change is the elevated position of the taillights - on the Series II the bottom of the taillight lines up with the top of the license plate lamp. It also sports the Discovery Series II logo on back under the license plate.

Discovery Series II Vehicle Identification Numbers (V.I.N. #): SALTY124*XA** - 1999 auto SALTY124*YA** - 2000 auto

Discovery Series II Gearbox:

(1999-00) 69A.

Discovery Series II Transfer Case:

(1999-00) 42D

Discovery Series II Engine Identification: Displ. Number Comp. Ratio App. Years 4.0 56D 9.35:1 1999-00 auto

When Shopping On-line look for the Model code of D2 for parts that will fit your vehicle.

LR3 MISC

NAPA part number 6203-2RSA, or Federal Mogul #203-FF

You need to take off the belt, thats a 15mm Wrench. Then its a 13 mm wrench to get off the belt tensioner………Once it’s off, take off the pulley and press in the new bearing, and do it in reverse……..This one is real easy!

Be aware, there is a c-clip on one side of the bearing.

LR3 MISC

When you go to remove the old starter, the top bolt is a 3/8-16 SHCS, The driver is either 7/32 or 5/16.
Use plenty of extensions and go in from in front of the motor mount.

LR3 MISC

Have you replaced/upgraded the coil wire? My 1994 had a rough running problem and my mechanic said that there was a flaw with the original coil wire STC9124 and replaced it with STC9124G and the problem went away. The new coil wire has thicker insulation and a cover which goes over the coil end. I think this problem ran through 1996.

LR3 MISC

Stock: GM-type nylon teeth stocker chain/gears.

Reccomended: Cloyes Tru-Roller. Use the Buick V6 one.

LR3 MISC

1) For idle speed problems, first check operation of throttle position switch, making sure throttle linkage is not catching on anything. Also check operation of idle valve and wiring. If both ok, then ECU is suspect. Wherever possible, carry out tests for induction side airleaks as these can also cause high idle speeds.

2) For battery discharge problems, turn ignition OFF and check battery current draw - look for about 400 milliamps drain with EVERYTHING turned off. Note that disconnecting battery will sometimes reset ECU and problem will go away - until next time! Do not leave battery disconnected for long periods as you will lose radio security codes.

Range Rover/Discovery 3.5/3.9 Litre (cat & non cat) diagnostic checklist

In all cases poor idling or running problems with ‘hot wire’ system (from 1990), we recommend carrying out the following checks/tests before commencing diagnosis;

1) Check security and condition of all wiring and connectors associated with idle control valve.

2) Clean (with carb cleaner) and lubricate stepper motor and idle valve, clean and lubricate throttle butterfly housing as carbon build up can interfere with idle settings.

3) Carry out hydrocarbon dye test on coolant to identify head gasket problems. This test should be carried out whenever there are idle/running problems with Rover V8 engines.

4) Check correct operation of ignition advance/retard mechanism. Early mechanical systems should be cleaned and lubricated. DO NOT REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR FROM ENGINE BLOCK!

5) ALWAYS CHANGE engine coolant temperature sensor (the one behind the easy one!)

LR3 MISC

Rover models from 1991 to 1999 suffer a number of minor failures of the MEMS (Modular Engine Management System) fitted to many 1XX, 2XX and 4XX series. Identify this ECU type by looking for Rover label with M.E.M.S. initials. Note that some Rover models are fitted with PGM-F1 engine management system - this system is Honda design and normally very reliable.

COMMON SYMPTOMS

1) Idle control problems which can be intermittent. Typically car idles at up to 3000rpm but can also cause low idle with stalling at traffic lights and junctions.

OR

2) Battery discharges over 3 or 4 day period.

LR3 MISC

When idling, the RPMs’ cycle between 500 to 700 RPMs’ and eventually kills the motor. On the freeway, the engine runs very smooth, doesn’t bog down or lose power. When I feel the motor will die during idling, I step on the gas and brake at the same time to prevent me from stalling in the middle of the street, but this will also cause my Check Engine warning lamp to illuminate. Looking at the OBD-I read out, I get no codes!

Clean the stepper motor and the cavity into which it fits. If the piece that seats into the casting is scored, replace the stepper motor.

LR3 MISC

If all you are going to need to deal with are the leaks, I would suggest the following:

Remove the complete intake Cleanout the sludge and crap from the engine Replace all the vaccum lines you can Take the manifold apart and clean out everything, all the vac lines, the throttle body Clean out the top of each head, the rocker area, with carb cleaner so it is bare clean again Replace any and all hoses that are questionable Put it back together, start and warm up then do both a coolant change and a engine oil flush and change. It’s a 99 so replave the old plug wires while it is apart, I would suggest 8mm blue Magencor wires. Replace the spark plugs with Bosh Platiumn Plus 4’s Drive it for awhile, make sure all is fine anf then after you have recovered from thqat expense, replace the O2 sensors for at your mileage they are crap and cutting your power.

LR3 MISC

Steering shake and shimmy is a common Discovery problem.

Following is a list of items that need to be checked in order of importance to find the cause of the problem.

1. Check Panhard rod bushes (contrary to the last posting on this subject worn panhard bushes are the most common cause of steering shake) Check them by having someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you examine the bushes for movement and play.

2. Check steering box and linkages for play.

3. Check wheels and tyres for balance and “true”

4. Check steering damper.

5. Check steering swivel pre-load.

The problem could be any or all of the above, however if you have a leaky power steering box (most do) the most likely culprit will be the panhard bushes which get covered in steering fluid and rot out.

LR3 MISC

If your engine falters and stops when it’s running hot, either in hot weather or in demanding conditions, it may be due to a failed amplifier module. Land Rover engineers located this module atop the distributor, where it has been known to collect too much heat and fail. What you need is an Amplifier Module Relocation Kit, which moves the part off the distributor and into a cooler part of the engine compartment.

LR3 MISC

Teflon Blade Blade - Front 15-180

Exact Fit Blade - Front 18-1

Sport Utility & Minivan Blade Blade - Front 18/18

Nu-Vision Blade - Front 21-180

Winter Teflon® Blade Blade - Front 37-189

Winter Blade Blade - Front 37-180

Teflon Blade Blade - Rear 15-140

Exact Fit Blade - Rear 14-1

Nu-Vision Blade - Rear 21-130

Winter Blade Blade - Rear 37-131

LR3 MISC

The rear “A” frame connects the axle centre point to the chassis to prevent sideways and torsional movement.

Symptom:
Clonk noise when pulling off or accelerating after slowing down, also when braking after accelerating.

Solution:
To replace this ball joint you will need:
Appropriate spanners/sockets
Firm bench mounted vice
Large hammer
Hack saw
NEW ball joint (Quality varies - be careful)

1. Remove the split pin retaining the ball joint nut.
2. Loosen but don’t remove the nut
3. Remove the two bolts and nuts holding the two “A”
frame arms to the ball joint carrier.
4. Knock the ball joint and carrier out of the axle seat
from below. Remove the nut and take the carrier to
the bench vice.
5. Remove the two securing bolts and carefully cut off
the wings of the old ball joint, taking care not to
damage the carrier.
6. Invert the carrier and support it in the vice so that the
threaded holes are resting on the vice jaws and the
ball joint is free to be beaten downwards.
7. Using suitable spacers beat the rounded end of the
ball joint until it is free of the carrier.
8. To fit the new ball joint, get two, long, fully threaded
bolts with the same thread.as the originals.
9. Fit the bolts and tighten gently. Tighten the bolts
firmly and then tap the ball joint until the bolts are
loose, continue the procedure until the ball joint is in
firmly. Do not bend the wings of the new ball joint.

Once the joint is firmly fitted to the carrier, fit the retaining bolts and reverse the removal procedure.

LR3 MISC

In my opinion the DAP lift is to high regardless of what others say. 1.5″ is the max lift for a Freelander in my opinion.

1) Get some metric coupling nuts that fit the strut studs (can’t remember the thread size)

2 Get some grade 8 bolts with a couple of inches of thread on them, and cut the thread off to make about 2″ long studs. (test fit on strut studs to check required depth).

4) Locktite the studs into the coupling nuts at depth determined in step 2.

4) Cut the spacers down to match the coupling nuts height.

5) Re-install the lift using the new home-made stud extenders and shorter spacers.

Mine came out right around 1.5″ lift and eliminated my vibrating front CV’s.

If the above is to much trouble, then just get the Iron Man springs.

LR3 MISC

My Account from your handset - airtime free
These calls are toll and airtime free from your Verizon Wireless handset.
Shortcuts to your account info

* #BAL + Send - Check Your Balance
* #MIN + Send - Check Your Minutes Used
* #PMT + Send - Make A Payment
* #DATA + Send - Check The Number of Text Messages and kilobyte usage
* *611 + Send - Contact Customer Service

Interactive account info
Dial *611 + Send or dial (800) 922-0204
Automated Services - Press 1

* To check your balance
* To make a payment
* To check minutes used for voice, TXT Messages and kilobyte usage
* Find a store

Voice Mail Password, Add or Remove Features or help with Features - Press 2

* To reset your voicemail password
* To add Caller ID Blocking
* To add or remove features
* For help using features

Data Services - Press 3

* For pricing or billing questions related to all data products
* For Technical Support with Get It Nowsm, TXT or Picture Messaging and Mobile Web
* For Technical Support with PDAs such as BlackBerry® and TreoTM
* For Technical Support with BroadbandAccess or NationalAccess, using a PC Card or Mobile Office Kit

Additional Customer Service Options - Press 0

* For roaming or problems making or receiving calls
* To stop your service
* For all other requests

LR3 MISC

The proposed route will take us through the historic towns of
Alleghany, North Bloomfield and possibly Graniteville and past old
mining sites, such as the Malakoff Diggins.

The majority of the trail will be off-road, but there will be some
paved sections. The trail should be suitable for stock vehicles,
unless it rains.

The trails are ns#25 and ns#26 from the book “Backcountry Adventures:
Northern California” by Peter Massey and Jeanne Wilson.

LR3 MISC

The service limit on the front rotor is 13mm, while it’s 11.68mm for the rears.

LR3 MISC

P1472 = VIS Motors

It’s not a big deal to have a few of ‘em, but when it’s dozens or more then you have a problem.

LR3 MISC

Castrol Full Synthetic 5/50
Mobil 1 0/40
Quaker State Ultra Premium Full Syn 5/50
Valvoline SynPower Full Syn 5/40
Texaco Havoline Formula 3 Synthetic 5/40
Phillips 66 TropArtic 100% syn 5/50

LR3 MISC

This information is for the 4.0 liter V-8 OBD I (On Board Diagnostics, phase I) Petrol engine that is found in the US. The information may hold for other markets and engines, but we cannot confirm this. It may also be true for Defenders and Range Rovers with the same engine. Again we don’t know

NAS Discoveries have a digital readout for diagnostics. It is a black plastic box measuring approximately 1″ x 2.5″ x 3″ with a red LED readout. It is found under the passenger seat facing backwards. It may be unclipped and moved so that the driver can see it.
This doesn’t give nearly as detailed readout at the official test box, but it’s better than nothing.
Fault Codes
Jump directly to the fault code:
02 12 14 17 18 19 21 23 25 28 29 34 36 40 44 45 48 50 58 59 68 69 88

General:

* The fault codes are given in order of priority. If more than fault exists, you have to clear the display before the next fault code can be displayed.
* Fault code 02 meas that the ECU has just been reconnected. Switch on the ignition to clear the display.

Clearing the display

1. Switch ignition on.
2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
3. Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
4. Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black
5. If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.

No LED’s are on:

Good news; nothing is wrong. Either that or Mr. Lucas has struck and either the LEDs are burned out or the display isn’t getting any power.

Code 29 - ECU memory check

If detected all other faults are unreliable and must be ignored.
Procedure:
1. leave battery connected
2. switch ignition off
3. wait for approximately 5 seconds
4. disconnect ECU plug.
5. reconnect ECU plug
6. switch ignition on and check display unit.
If fault code 29 is detected again, swap out the ECU for another one and retest.

Code 44 - Lambda sensor A - left bank
Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank

If one of these fault codes is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor.

If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Refer to test 26, continuity test procedure.

Code 25 - Ignition misfire

This code indicates that an ignition system misfire has been detected. Codes 40 or 50 indicate on which bank the misfire has occurred.

Code 40 - Misfire bank A - left bank
Code 50 - Misfire bank B - right bank

If both codes are displayed, check the following components common to both banks:
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Coil
Electrical connections
Pick-up (air gap)
Amplifier
Injectors (if code 34 or 36 is displayed)
If either fault code 40 or 50 is displayed check components applicable to the particular bank that the misfire has occurred on.
Spark plugs
HT leads
Distributor cap
Injectors - if code 34 bank A or 36 bank B displayed

Code 12 - Airflow meter
Refer to test 19, continuity test procedure.
Code 21 - fuel tune select

Identifies that the tune select resistor is open circuit- refer to tune select resistor test.

Code 34 - Injector bank A

The display will indicate if the injector(s) are causing the engine to run rich or lean.

If the bank is running rich, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, stuck open injectors.

If the bank is running lean, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, blocked injectors.

Code 36 - Injector bank B
As code 34, except relevant to bank A injectors.
Code 14 - Coolant thermistor
Refer to test 14, continuity test procedure.
Code 17 - Throttle potentiometer
Refer to test 17, continuity test procedure.
Code 18 - Throttle potentiometer input high/airflow meter low
refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 19 - Throttle potentiometer input low/airflow meter high
refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 88 - Purge valve leak
refer to test 9 and 10 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 28 - Air leak

check for air leaks in the following areas:
o Hose, air flow meter to plenum
o Breather system hoses to plenum
o Brake servo hose
o Vacuum reservoir hose (fresh air solenoid)
o Distributor vacuum advance
o Hose, purge valve to plenum
o Injector seals
o Joint - bypass air valve to plenum plenum chamber to ram housing ram housing to inlet manifold inlet manifold to cylinder head bypass air valve hose

Code 23 - Fuel supply
check fuel system pressure, test 20 of continuity test procedure.
Code 48 - Stepper motor

check base idle speed- see setting procedure. Refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.

Code 68 - Road speed sensor
refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
Code 69 Gear switch
refer to test 24 of continuity test procedure.
Code 58 Group faults 23/28

This indicates that a fault has been registered that is caused by the fuel spply or an air leak but the exact fault cannot be identified. Check all items outlined under codes 23 and 28.

Code 59 Fuel thermistor
Refer to test 13 of the continuity test procedure.

LR3 MISC

Bulletin No: 37/20/96
Subject: Gearbox Mainshaft Spline Wear
Affected Vehicles:

Discovery LJ 178205 onwards
Discovery LJ 506525 onwards
Defender LD 976480 onwards

Detail:

Some customers may complain of clonks and backlash in the transmission system. This may be due to gearbox/mainshaft spline wear. The clonk/backlash will be most apparent in stop/go traffic under overrun conditions or when maneuvering the vehicle during parking, etc. From transfer box number 28D 460996 F (Discovery) and 22D 461124 F (Defender) all factory built LT230 transfer boxes have a revised design of input gear, featuring lengthened splines and cross drilled oil feed holes. This modification eliminates the requirement for an oil feed disk (bulletin H415) and eliminates input gear/mainshaft spline fretting/wear. Coincident with this change, the transfer box identification number has been raised to Suffix “F”.

————–

The problem is that no oil can get to the gearbox output to transfer case input splines and they fret and wear. This affects all LT230 transfer cases prior to mid 1994.

The symptoms are clunks, i.e. backlash, in the transmission especially at low speed in low gears. I don’t believe that the wear will hurt anything until the splines break. This, of course, will leave you stranded and the loose spline bits could damage the rest of the transfer case.

The fix was to fit a splash ring (bulletin H415) to the shaft which improved lubrication of the splines. Transfer cases with this modification should have a prominent paint mark on their rear cover plate. This fix limits further wear. The more expensive fix is to replace with the newer longer splines with a cross drilled transfer case input gear.

This covers LT230 boxes prior to 28D 460996 F Discovery, and 22D 461124 F Defender and all Range Rovers with the LT230. Following this the LT230 transfer boxes have had longer splines and cross-drilled oil feed holes thus solving the problem.

The matter is discussed in Land Rover bulletin “37/20/96″.

LR3 MISC

1996 Discovery Available Paint Colors:

Portofino Red
Willow Green (Metallic)
Beluga Black (Clear Coat)
Altai Silver (Metallic)
Avalon Blue (Micatallic)
Epsom Green (Micatallic)
Alpine White

————————-

1995 Range Rover Colors:

Special Edition:
Aspen Silver

RR County SWB model:
Beluga Black
Alpine White
Epsom Green

RR County LWB model:

Beluga Black
Carmen Red
Alpine White
Plymouth Blue
Roman Bronze
Avalon Blue
Brooklands Green
Cornish Cream

LR3 MISC

Remove the fill plug on the swivel housing.
It is the plug with a square head.
I think you will use a 17mm wrench.
Below that fill plug you will find a second plug, I think it is a 13mm. That should be the fill level.
Remove that one and keep filling until the grease starts leaking from that hole.

LR3 MISC

You can make you own cheaply - just buy 5/8″ tractor pins, some 5/8″ washers - remove bolt holding the swivel end to the anti-sway bar and replace with the tractor pins. You’ll have to cut the pins to length and redrill new locking pin holes because they usually come 6″ or so.

Lowes, HD, Tractor Supply, etc all carry the pins.

LR3 MISC

Body Trim:

Mothers’ “Back to Black”

Wax:

Maguires NXT

LR3 MISC

The spec for NAS models is 0.4% below horizontal and parallel to each other. There’s a 6mm allen screw on each side of the headlamp - from the drawing I have it looks like they can be adjusted from the top with the hood open.

Park 25 feet from a blank wall on level ground, measure with a yardstick from the ground to the ‘center’ of the headlight - basically where the center of the light beam comes out (often there is a small dimple or dot on the lense). Now mark on the wall (tape or chalk unless you want permanant) a line that high. Aim the hot spot of the low beam just below this line, and your set!

6MM allen wrench, the screws are on both sides of that “cap” on the back of the headlight.

Took a look before I left for work a few minutes ago. The adjustment screws are accessible from the top. On the passenger side: the screws can be accessed through the hole in front of the washer fluid fill tube, and through the gap farther over between the headlamp and the body.

Source:MuddyOval.com

LR3 MISC

There’s a small plastic elbow coming out of the air tube on the driver’s side of the engine, disconnect the elbow from that and you’ll get a CEL, then they’ll get off their arse and read all the codes, and you’ll know for sure if you’ve got a VIS code.

LR3 MISC

Gold Valley:

Between Highway 49 & 70. Its a bit south of Plumas Eureka State Park and a bit west of Gold Lake. North of the Sierra Buttes.

N39:39.182 W120:42.494

Snake Lake Trail

Gold Lake Jeep Trail

Deer Lake Trail

Little Deer Lake Trail

Gold Valley Trail

Butcher Ranch OHV Trail

PLUMAS NATIONAL FOREST

Supervisor’s Office, Box 11500, 159 Lawrence, Quincy, CA 95971, (530) 283-2050.

26.Gold Lake, Beckworth Ranger District P.O. Box 7, Blairsden, CA 96103, (530) 836-2575. MC, 4WD, ATV, DB, SMBL Groomed snowmobile trails at Gold Lake.

27.Dixie Mountain, Beckworth Ranger District, P.O. Box 7, Blairsden, CA 96103, (530) 836-2575. MC, 4WD, ATV, DB, SMBL.

28.Mosquito Creek/Antelope Lake/Lights Creek/ Canyon Dam Mt. Hough, Ranger District 39697 Hwy 70 Quincy, CA 95971, (530) 283-0555.

29.Deadman Springs/Snake Lake, Mt. Hough Ranger District 39697 Hwy 70 Quincy, CA 95971, (530) 283-0555. MC, 4WD, ATV, DB, SMBL.

30.Cleghorn Bar/Poker Flat/La Porte, Feather River Ranger District, 875 Mitchell Avenue, Oroville 6500. (530) 675-2462. MC, 4WD, ATV, DB, SMBL. Groomed snowmobile trails at La Porte.

31.Big Creek/Four Trees/French Creek/Bucks Summit, Feather River Ranger District, 875 Mitchell Avenue, Oroville 6500. (530) 675-2462. MC, 4WD, ATV, DB, SMBL. Groomed snowmobile trails at La Porte.

LR3 MISC

Eligible Vehicles - Must have 1 month AND 1,000 miles remaining on new vehicle warrenty. These prices are for newly pruchased vehicles less than 15 mo AND 15K Miles. Prices are approximately $200 more for vehicles with mor than 15 months AND more than 15K miles. Thanks to Paul from Boston for providing this information!

ExtMonths ExtMiles TotalMonths TotalMiles MSRP

0 25000 48 75000 $970

0 50000 48 100000 $1050

12 0 60 50000 $840

12 25000 60 75000 $1190

12 35000 60 85000 $1250

12 50000 60 100000 $1340

24 50000 72 100000 $1500

36 50000 84 100000 $1970

LR3 MISC

PIAA H4 XTREME WHITE BULB H4 TWIN PACK, PART #15260 Wattage : 60/55w = 135/125w, 4150K

LR3 MISC

Max-Frame Receiver PN 75137 Part Number: 75137 Description: Max-Frame Receiver Class Rating: CLASS III WC: 3500 Box Size: 2″ x 2″

LR3 MISC

If they are similar, then you may try the white/orange wire at pin 25 of the 26 pin connector on the CCU behind the interior fusebox. May or may not be the same, but that’s the only place I know.

LR3 MISC

Advantages- Can be used for recovery Can be used to mount a winch Twin receiver ports could be used to attach shackles if you have no winch Replaces the oem skid plate Skid plate covers a lot more area underneath Skid plates remove in seconds for oil changes etc Skid plates can be replaced if bent Built-in light tabs (DAP standard bars have those too, but not oem LR bars)

Disadvantages- Ain’t cheap, but nothing good ever is Installation requires more skill than a “looks only” bar Lose a small amount of clearance because of the underside protection I wish it had a wraparound option like the full brush guard around the headlamps

To get the front cover off: screws across top of radiator area, under hood. Screws across the top of the lower radiator opening One bolt each side from fender wells Three screws across the very bottom Pull the oem skid plate first

LR3 MISC

Visitor comments welcome in this post.

LR3 MISC

matches / lighter
Machetty
water
rain suit
mag light
groundsheet
knife
owners manual
spare wheel spanner
tire pump
3m (9ft) piece of garden hose
More oil

—————-

-Front axles with CV’s already on
-Rear axles (maybe a spare carrier)
-Front and rear driveshafts (with extra hardware)
-2 sets of wheel bearings with seals
-serpentine belt
-misc nuts and bolts

As far as fluids go, I carry plenty of gear lube, some one shot, grease, brake fluid, etc.

——–
I definitely take upper/lower heater hoses, belt (mentioned below), brake switch, thermostat, air/oil filters, rear axles, stock front drive shaft, fluids and so on. There are a pile of lists. I started with Bill Burkes and grew from there.

————-

I would just add an extension to the socket wrench for hard to reach places, first aid kit, toilet paper, propably another shackle or two…. if you don’t have a winch get a Hi-Lift w/ the winching kit,,, jack base (either Hi-Lift’s plastic one or a well-made home-made with a small length of rope attached to get the base out of the mud),,,good flash light w/ extra batteries,,,,extras of all fluids,,,tire repair kit,,,quick deflators with a quality gauge (not those pen gauges),,,a length of electrical wire & caps,,,a fire extinguisher,,,a small back-packers water filter pump,,,depending on the climate where you live some of those quick fire starters you can buy at the supermarket,,,,something to make fire with,,,,first aid kit. If you smoke always have an extra pack or two of cigarettes!! Extra tie-rod & related steering stuff,,,drag link etc.
————

a hub nut tool, and a long ass magnet to fish out broken shafts perhaps? and pray to god you’ll never need them.

————

——–
alternator
CVs
serpentine belt
timken bearings
u-joints
spark plugs
brake lines
nuts and bolts
wire and connections
fuses
relays
bulbs
motor oil
90 wt
power steering
brake fluid
grease
octane booster
oil filter
hose
hose clamps
cable

_________________________

Another opinion…

I carry everything but what I need seems like…

Axles/CV’s
hoses
belt
belt tensioner pulley
break lines
clamps
wheel bearings
transmission fluid (Quart)
Motor oil (Quart)
brake fluid
wire
duct tape
nuts and bolts

then I have a small box of junk that has plug wires, spark plugs, gaskets, plumers tape, and just some random s

——–

DRAWER 1

5lb Hammer.
Air hoses.
900mm Claw bar (3 ft)
Tyre repair kit.
Wheel nuts.
Various D shackles.
Clevis pins.
Gloves.
1 set 800amp jumper leads x 6 metres (20 feet).
1 set 300 amp jumper leads x 4 metres (13 feet).

DRAWER 2

2 litre Gear oil 80w-90.
1 litre Brake fluid.
1 litre Power steering fluid.
½ litre Stop leak fluid.
Ether engine starter.
WD 40.
Fuel filter.
Fan belt.
Petrol siphon.
Coil + coil lead..
#8 Spark plug lead.
Top & bottom radiator hoses.
Bolt cutters.
Collapsible canvas bucket.
Quantity of assorted cable ties.
Snake bite kit.

MISCELLANEOUS

Folding shovel.
30 metres x 12mm dynamica rope.

——–

LR3 MISC

93-95 Classics and 94-97 D1s are affected

Fuel tank recall B156

veh. VIN range :

classics PA637653 SA662245
DISCO 1 RA072463 TA199999
TA500000 VA546039
VA700000 VA714242

Please have less then 1/4 tank full, as the garage doesn’t have a place to store fuel. Also please have the trunk of the vehicle empty, as they need access to the fuel pump which is located under the carpetting in the trunk.
The dealership will need your car probably for 1 full day. The recall is only performed by the dealerships so you should contact them. In my area for instance this affects probably 500 cars.

The reason for this recall is that the plasic welds may leak fuel. If you have registered your car with Land Rover USA then it might be that you will receive an official letter from them telling about this recall.

LR3 MISC

Frequency Expansion

240 Channel Operation

1)Put away the Golden screwdriver! No tools needed for this mod.
2)When Turning on the radio hold in the DW and channel 9 buttons.
3)To get to the 10 meter band hold in the LCR and MIC buttons.
4)To change bans press the channel 19 button.
5)Repeat this process to return to regular 40 Channel CB.

Unlocking the Clarifier

1) On the back of the clarifier pot follow the blue wire to the PCB.
2) Cut the blue wire about 1 inch from the PCB.
3) Find jp-44 and solder the blue wire to it.(its the 8vdc source)
4) Cut the resistor on the bottom of the clarifier knob.
5) Solder a wire from where the resistor was to ground on the PCB.
6) Finally jump D-40 and cut D-42.You should now have about 6Khz of slide.

Peak and Tweak

RV-7 AM Power
RV-8 SSB Power
Q-24 Audio limiter

LR3 MISC

The already quenching, poor flame propogating head design of the Rover V8 needs all the spark it can get and fast!

The Plus 4 is worse in this regard as it prevents the flame front upon ignition.

The Iridiums reduced fouling, provided better pick-up and marginal economy change.
But at about $12ea AUD for 150,000kms I would strongly recommend them.

They were the single best improvement in the ignition of my Discovery V8.

Next was the 8.8mm Spiral core leads…

When it was supercharged and then stroked to 5.0L I stayed with them and they were fantastic….

I had +4s and then changed to the Iridium NGKs so I felt the difference immediately. Unless you run +4s and then go the iridium you may not see the difference.

Also the +4 is a waste, the spark only jumps to the one of least resistance every time.

With the fine tip of the iridium you get the perfect spark every time.

LR3 MISC

Info here on dual battery installation in my ‘95 Discovery 1.

LR3 MISC

Very Nice Trek Rover at LR Rocklin.

LR3 MISC

Bear Valley Loop, FreelanderLiving.com group run.

Photo Gallery here

LR3 MISC